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2008 Xterra Engine won't Start when Cold Forums > > 2008 Xterra Engine won't Start when Cold 2008 Xterra Engine won't Start when Cold
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Old 10-21-2017, 05:57 AM
therudman therudman is offline
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Question 2008 Xterra Engine won't Start when Cold

My daughters 2008 Xterra has a cold start problem. Engine turns over fine but will not start all the time when temps drop in 40's or below. If you boost with another, it vehicle starts right up. Boost with battery pak and will start 99% of the time. Nissan said it was battery when it first started messing up and started fine for a while. Since problem started we now have 800 CCA battery, new IPDM relay, cleaned battery connections and grounds. No check engine light on. Researched boards and many have same problem. Some say ECM (electronic Control Module) is the problem and fixes it while others have replaced and problem still there. Some removed their ECM's and placed in freezer to simulate cold start and when put back on it started and some have not. Makes sense something contracting in ECM when it's cold but for the cost of a new ECM and then to have it programmed is rather costly. First few years she owned it she kept in a garage and never had a problem. Now it's outside all night. Once started it will crank all day unless very cold out and car has sit for more than 8 hrs. My daughter has a lot invested as she maintains and fixes anything that goes wrong since it was new and she loves it! Local Techs are not impressive to put it kindly! Anyone find a fix for this problem please let me know!
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Old 10-23-2017, 06:29 PM
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bennyb53 bennyb53 is offline
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I personally would not freeze the ECM. Moisture trap in the terminals will freeze and when thawed your're inviting corrosion into those terminals. If you remove the motherboard (circuit board) from the box you better wrap it in a electrostatic free material or you'll have a fried motherboard.

I begin by asking how often her oil change schedule and be sure to use the recommended grade. If she's been using say 10w-30 during summer, I suggest to change it now to factory recommended oil grade. Some gas stations are now receiving winter grade fuel, ask your fav station if they have winter grade or go to a station that has winter grade fuel.
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Old 10-24-2017, 07:02 AM
therudman therudman is offline
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Thanks bennyb53. I am not putting ECM in freezer. Was responding to what others with this problem were doing to try and confirm ECM was problem. Oil has been changed with recommended oils. Don't believe its a fuel or fuel grade problem. Boost right off every time. It seems like theft protection or ECM keeping engine from cranking. Thanks for your input.
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Old 10-24-2017, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by therudman View Post
It seems like theft protection or ECM keeping engine from cranking. Thanks for your input.
Just so we're on the same page I think your Xterra cranks but won't start, Cranks But No Start condition.

1. If you suspect the issue might be Anti-Theft system, when your cranking to start the engine, the anti-theft light (red light) should be off. If it stays on while you're attempting to start the car then the issue is the anti-theft system or in Nissan world its called Immobilizer and it will trigger a trouble code.

2. According to you it boost every time. Before you boost take battery voltage reading with volt meter or multi meter and write it down. After you boost and car is idling after reaching normal operating temperature (3-4 minutes), turn on your A/C or Heater on high,headlights, fog lights, radio, seat heater if equipped then take another voltage reading. If your voltage is around 14.5V means your Alternator is working properly. If you have voltage under 14V means you have a failed alternator which is not charging the battery. good luck.
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Old 04-18-2018, 10:54 AM
michaelmiracle michaelmiracle is offline
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my 2007 has this issue. The cumbersome fix I have found is to jump start it. The battery is good and the charge is over 14 volts when running so it's not a battery issue. It needs to be at 1000 amos as it written someplace else in these boards. In CO the weather can change dramatically day to day, so I have found it starts right up when over 45 degrees or so. So that eliminates the gas draining back into the tank as a possible issue for me. But what I have found as a quick fix is to turn the key on and let it sit for a while, depending on how cold it is out. The colder it is the longer it needs to sit with the key on but not cranking. It eventually will start if I'm patient. I suspect the immobilizer and have changed the relay without a change in symptoms. But something must be 'warming up' when the key is on.
Michael
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Old 05-16-2018, 01:57 PM
Howard Bell Howard Bell is offline
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Why they make block heaters..........
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