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2000 Xterra running rough Forums > > 2000 Xterra running rough 2000 Xterra running rough
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  #1  
Old 05-31-2010, 11:13 AM
Bulzeye
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Default 2000 Xterra running rough

I am having a hard time identifying a problem. Hopefully someone can give me some guidance.
Xterra was recently purchased. It was running fine. Got it home and changed the spark plugs and oil. Things seemed fine. Drove it lightly for a month (probably put 500 miles on it).
Wife calls me one afternoon and says it is running poorly.
I check it out and it is sputtering and running rough. Will barely idle and will not rev up past 1500 rpms.
I take it to the local auto parts store and they tell me its knock sensor trouble code. The check engine light has never come on.

I start troubleshooting the knock sensor, and just to test it I add a resistor between the wires. No change in the performance at all. Still rough running and notice some smoke around the exhaust manifolds.
I test the knock sensor circuit at the wiring harness and get 555K ohms, which is the correct reading. I don't think the knock sensor is causing the problem.

I crank the car for a few minutes and notice the exhaust pipes are turning red hot under the shields.

Now I am stumped. Is it a bad catalytic system? Is it a bad distributor? Bad sensors somewhere else? I do not have any Check engine lights.

No exhaust fumes found in the radiator and no water found in the oil.

Any thoughts or suggestions?
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  #2  
Old 06-03-2010, 06:05 AM
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johnsx johnsx is offline
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2000 Xterra
2000 Xterra
 
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I'll try to take a stab and offer my two cents. First off I'm not a certified mechanic just a weekend warrior. You mentioned you changed the plugs. Start there, are they all tight still, and no loose plug wires. Check other wires and vacuum hoses in the area you were working, maybe you accidentally bumped one. I've done this on several occasions.

Also the sign that your pipes are getting red hot, sounds very bad. I've never noticed that on my Y2K X. Is your exhuast system clogged with a critter or something? Is the air intake clogged with a critter or the filter itself? Try temporarily disconnecting the exhaust system after the headers to see if it breaths better.

You also mentioned the local parts stored identified a trouble-code but the light never came on. Sure, if the ECU saw an all clear code after that. But the fact that is sounds like it's running so rough now the check engine light should surely be on now. I'm a bit suspect if the check engine circuit has somehow been bypassed. Here is an easy test to find out. Loosen or remove your gas cap, attempt to start the truck, eventually the ECU will see a fault and will light Check Engine continuously.

Aside from the basic checks and without a solid check engine code you'll only be shotgunning, replacing senseless items and throwing away money and getting frustrated. At that point call it a defeat and bring it to a quality ASE mechanic.
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Last edited by johnsx; 06-03-2010 at 06:15 AM.
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  #3  
Old 06-16-2010, 07:16 PM
yashdeo yashdeo is offline
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I got the same problem on my 2000 xterra. i did a complete tune up and a even empty the gas tank and clean it. i found some Water and some fine particle which is normal. Then The truck was running fine. after 1 days the truck run rough again. i got the timing belt set. its usually the both that hold the distributor hold it. Loosen the bolt and rotate the distributor while listening to smoothness to come. after that it ran great. but do ask a mechanic to do it.

Then the prob still continue. this time the engine light came on which indicate a problem in crank shaft position sensor and knock sensor. this was way too far fetch for me. I got the crank shaft change but still same prob. But the final step of changing the distributor was a good decision. the truck runs great. and it runs just like new and lots of power.
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  #4  
Old 06-17-2010, 12:53 PM
jacko48j jacko48j is offline
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The knock sensor will not turn on the ck engine lite. When the code is in memory it's usually because the sensor is bad. The code can be erased but it usually always comes back on, most times right away. It will not make the veh run as bad as you are saying yours is running. It sounds to me like a mass air flow issue, something is making the veh run lean. Make sure there is no restriction in the air intake system, that is from the air filter to the throttle plates. If the exh is getting red hot like you stated you might want to take it to an experienced tech. Good luck. You could have a restricted exhaust also. Something else to check.

Last edited by jacko48j; 06-17-2010 at 12:55 PM.
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  #5  
Old 07-09-2010, 01:44 PM
briana1080
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Hey everyone, my 200 xterra was running rough, idle up and down, jerking etc. I changed the KS, MAF, Plugs, Dis.Cap, etc. Nothing changed it keep doing the exact same thing. So took it to a buddy he hooked it up to a machine no codes as usual. He drove told me he thought it was the catalytic convertor. So did a little surgery on the two and sure enough problem fixed. I could have saved myself a lot of money had checked this first.
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  #6  
Old 07-12-2010, 03:03 AM
Bulzeye
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I think the problem is solved.....

New distributor and its back to running fine.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. It was all very helpful in diagnosing the problem.
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  #7  
Old 01-18-2011, 09:01 AM
Brian Bellon Brian Bellon is offline
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2000 Xterra
 
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Default Another testimonial

I was seeing the same problems on my 2000 Xterra - the hotter the engine got - the worse it would run. No codes. No difference with new plugs. Replaced the Distributor and its running like it a charm! THANKS!! You guys ROCK!!
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  #8  
Old 02-17-2016, 04:47 PM
Jbstanley2000xterra Jbstanley2000xterra is offline
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So I have a 2000 Nissan Xterra I had check engine lights for crank shaft camshaft and knock sensor I'd the dealership I bought it from brought it to a mechanic and they say they replaced the distributor camshaft position sensor knock sensor rewired the crankshaft position sensor and now my check engine light is flashing and the truck is running funny basically like its misfiring I'm a technician myself but this is a little out of my league and at this point I do not trust the mechanics they brought the vehicle to anyone have any ideas it would really help me
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  #9  
Old 07-31-2016, 09:11 AM
Go529 Go529 is offline
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I have a 2001 3.3 v6 naturally asp. The truck started running rough and had to tow it home. Limped it to work about 7 miles away put a code reader on it and had a p0325 random misfire and 03200 code. I tried to bypass the ks and did t make any change in condition. Re-did the wires and plugs made sure they were properly gapped and put in new distributor. Still no change the truck shook when it did run and engine light came on along with flickering oil light. Decided to take it to mechanic who was convinced it was the timing belt. Mech redid water pump which he said was leaking along with timing belt and the truck still won't run. The truck has been at this shop for a month now and they told me they think it's the valves but not sure if they have done a compression test. Has anyone ever experienced bent valves and are these the symptoms? I'm at a loss and about to give up but don't know where to go from here.. HELP!!
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  #10  
Old 07-31-2016, 11:31 AM
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smj999smj smj999smj is offline
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Bent valves can occur when the timing belt jumps. If that is what happened, then it is possible. One would have to remove the timing belt covers, put the cams and crank in time and install a new belt before being able to tell if the valves are bent. If one installs the new belt and crank pulley w/ bolt, he can start the engine without putting anything else back together to see if it runs (at least for a small amount of time). If the engine runs normally, it should be good. If there is a dead misfire or won't start, then a compression test should be performed. The belt is supposed to be changed every 105,000 miles.
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  #11  
Old 07-31-2016, 11:34 AM
Go529 Go529 is offline
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Thank you, this confirms my suspicion that a compression test does need to be performed. Apparently the shop had an identical Xterra with the same engine and pulled both timing covers to determine proper timing. Mine still runs like it has a misfire while the other vehicle ran properly. Are heads easier to replace/repair than an engine swap or would it be advisable to pull the damn thing and start over?
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  #12  
Old 07-31-2016, 08:28 PM
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smj999smj smj999smj is offline
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Hard for me to say without knowing anything about the condition of the engine. Assuming it does have one or more bent valves and the bottom end is in good shape and has been well maintained, R&R of the heads for a valve job or reman heads might be the best way to go. Used engines are usually not to hard to find at a descent price (VG33E's tend to be a lot less expensive than the older VG30E's). So, if it has a lot of miles, i.e. 200,000+, or has not been maintained, than replacing the engine might make more sense if you can find one with a lot less mileage. Of course, before installing a used engine, I would figure in cost of replacing the timing belt, water pump, front engine seals, plugs... Since they are prone to leaking and much easier to replace with the engine out, I would highly recommend replacing the rear main seal and resealing the oil pan, as the rear lip seal is a common oil leak location.
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  #13  
Old 08-01-2016, 07:12 AM
Go529 Go529 is offline
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Thanks for all the info!
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  #14  
Old 08-04-2016, 03:26 PM
Go529 Go529 is offline
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2001 Nissan Xterra DOES NOT RUN needs engine. Upgrades include Rancho 1500 front and rear shocks replaced 2014, 3"lift, 31" BFG all terrain tires, pioneer sterero, bug deflector, K&N Air filter, Water pump, timing belt, front brakes, idler arm, tie rod ends, upper and lower ball joints, fuel injectors cyl 6&4, distributor, plugs and wires all new. Asking $1500 OBO just want it gone! Located in Southwest Colorado
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