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  #16  
Old 12-10-2011, 05:33 PM
03X-Trailer 03X-Trailer is offline
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Hi Guys
I too have shared your problem with the noisy blower, and have gotten so far as removing the unit from the dash and separating the two halves. But I can't work out how to remove the squirrel cage from the pin / spindle in the centre. I've removed the securing nut on the top, but this where I've ground to a halt.

I'm not especially skilled in car DIY, and getting this far has been a big deal. I'm so close to checking the bearings and (hopefully) replacing them as described above.

I am determined NOT to pay silly money at my local dealership. Any advice much appreciated

Thanks - Neil
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  #17  
Old 12-15-2011, 04:14 AM
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jimod4343 jimod4343 is offline
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Originally Posted by 03X-Trailer View Post
Hi Guys
I too have shared your problem with the noisy blower, and have gotten so far as removing the unit from the dash and separating the two halves. But I can't work out how to remove the squirrel cage from the pin / spindle in the centre. I've removed the securing nut on the top, but this where I've ground to a halt.

I'm not especially skilled in car DIY, and getting this far has been a big deal. I'm so close to checking the bearings and (hopefully) replacing them as described above.

I am determined NOT to pay silly money at my local dealership. Any advice much appreciated

Thanks - Neil
I have got to the point where I have removed every bolt and screw I can find. Although the unit is very loose, I still can't remove it. There seems to be something right up the top holding it in. Doing it in sub-zero temperatures doesn't help either. Does anyone know the secret of the mysterious bit still holding it in? Thanks to the pics poster BTW, very helpful.
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  #18  
Old 12-15-2011, 07:57 AM
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jimod4343 jimod4343 is offline
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Originally Posted by jimod4343 View Post
I have got to the point where I have removed every bolt and screw I can find. Although the unit is very loose, I still can't remove it. There seems to be something right up the top holding it in. Doing it in sub-zero temperatures doesn't help either. Does anyone know the secret of the mysterious bit still holding it in? Thanks to the pics poster BTW, very helpful.
Yahoo! Finally got the thing out and in my hands. Now to tackle the bearings. I'm posting a few pics because my X-Trail is right-hand drive. Not quite a mirror image, and some subtle differences. Jim
Attached Thumbnails
Xtrail 06 blower motor noise-fan_unit-jpg   Xtrail 06 blower motor noise-fan_unit_2-jpg   Xtrail 06 blower motor noise-squirrel_cage-jpg  
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  #19  
Old 12-24-2011, 02:48 PM
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jimod4343 jimod4343 is offline
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Wink Blower motor blues - Motor Control Amplifier

After I replaced the bearings I found that the motor still didn't work despite the fact that I had measured 1.2 ohms or so when it was in my hands. It turned out to be the motor control amp which can be removed from the bottom/rear of the plastic housing with the whole housing in the car, thank God.

HOW IT WORKS: The Motor Control Amp receives a control voltage from Pin 35 of the AC Auto Amp; this voltage varies depending on how much blower motor speed is desired. The control voltage varies the conductivity of a 2SK2500 MOSFET Power Transistor which is connected in series with the blower motor - When the control voltage is high, this transistor conducts strongly, and full battery current is allowed to flow through the blower motor, then through the transistor, and finally to ground.

When the control voltage is low, the transistor conducts weakly, allowing only a small current to flow through the blower motor. In this manner, the blower speed is adjusted by adjusting the control voltage. The AC Auto Amp continuously measures the blower speed, via a connection between the negative side of the blower motor and Pin 34 on the AC auto Amp.

WHY THE FAN CONTROL AMP FAILS: The control voltage from the A/C Auto Amp can only reach the transistor through a thermal cutout. If the cutout blows (due to temperatures in excess of 140 degrees C.), no control voltage is applied to the base (or gate) of the transistor, and the blower never comes on.

Or, if the transistor fails, it typically develops a permanent short circuit between the Collector & Emitter terminals, causing the blower motor to run at full speed whenever the ignition switch is turned on.

HOW TO TROUBLE-SHOOT IT: If the Thermal Cutout has blown, you will measure infinite resistance between the two printed-circuit pads shown in the photo.

If the Thermal Cutout is still good, you will measure approximately zero ohms across these same two pads, and the transistor has probably blown.

In some rare cases however, both cutout AND transistor will have blown.

N.B. The thermal cutout is a bit like a fuse - it is non-resettable and must be replaced if blown.

HOW TO REPAIR IT:

If the Cutout has blown, a quick-and-dirty fix would be to solder a jumper wire across both printed circuit pads, thereby bypassing the cutout. However, this defeats the safety feature of having the cutout. A better option is to replace the cutout with a new one (which only costs around 45 cents). The cutout needs to be replaced with one that has a rating of around 128-135 degrees C.

In order to replace either the Cutout or transistor, the printed circuit board must be unsoldered at the 5 points shown in the photo above. A roll of solder wick makes the unsoldering job much easier.

Have fun! Jim
Attached Thumbnails
Xtrail 06 blower motor noise-04module-jpg   Xtrail 06 blower motor noise-05unsolderpoints-jpg   Xtrail 06 blower motor noise-08pcbremoved-jpg   Xtrail 06 blower motor noise-09cutoutremoved-jpg   Xtrail 06 blower motor noise-10replacements-jpg   Xtrail 06 blower motor noise-y33fanampschem-gif  

Last edited by jimod4343; 12-24-2011 at 06:13 PM. Reason: Error in photos/in text
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  #20  
Old 01-11-2012, 09:38 PM
03X-Trailer 03X-Trailer is offline
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Recently suffered from a noisy blower motor, so wrestled with the big plastic blower motor housing, removed the motor and replaced the bushes with NSK bearings - result: nice quiet blower motor.

As a serious DIY non-expert I was very pleased with myself until the motor died about a week later; I checked the fuses - blown, so replaced them and blower works once again - 40C+ here in Western Australia so wife happy!

A few days pass then blower dies again - checked fuses - fine - now to check the motor control amp. Off to hardware store for a multimeter, whatever that is!!

Removed my fan control amplifier - looks a bit corroded around the base - is this normal? I had this replaced just a couple of years ago.

Nissan dealership, you shall not have any more of my money!! Thank God it's the school hols or I'd never have time to fix this...

Thank goodness for all you guys -
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  #21  
Old 02-29-2012, 11:53 AM
marsjim marsjim is offline
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Thanks to all for the very informative information. Tomorrow I start the Job. Jim M
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  #22  
Old 10-04-2012, 03:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimod4343 View Post
After I replaced the bearings I found that the motor still didn't work despite the fact that I had measured 1.2 ohms or so when it was in my hands. It turned out to be the motor control amp which can be removed from the bottom/rear of the plastic housing with the whole housing in the car, thank God.

HOW IT WORKS: The Motor Control Amp receives a control voltage from Pin 35 of the AC Auto Amp; this voltage varies depending on how much blower motor speed is desired. The control voltage varies the conductivity of a 2SK2500 MOSFET Power Transistor which is connected in series with the blower motor - When the control voltage is high, this transistor conducts strongly, and full battery current is allowed to flow through the blower motor, then through the transistor, and finally to ground.

When the control voltage is low, the transistor conducts weakly, allowing only a small current to flow through the blower motor. In this manner, the blower speed is adjusted by adjusting the control voltage. The AC Auto Amp continuously measures the blower speed, via a connection between the negative side of the blower motor and Pin 34 on the AC auto Amp.

WHY THE FAN CONTROL AMP FAILS: The control voltage from the A/C Auto Amp can only reach the transistor through a thermal cutout. If the cutout blows (due to temperatures in excess of 140 degrees C.), no control voltage is applied to the base (or gate) of the transistor, and the blower never comes on.

Or, if the transistor fails, it typically develops a permanent short circuit between the Collector & Emitter terminals, causing the blower motor to run at full speed whenever the ignition switch is turned on.

HOW TO TROUBLE-SHOOT IT: If the Thermal Cutout has blown, you will measure infinite resistance between the two printed-circuit pads shown in the photo.

If the Thermal Cutout is still good, you will measure approximately zero ohms across these same two pads, and the transistor has probably blown.

In some rare cases however, both cutout AND transistor will have blown.

N.B. The thermal cutout is a bit like a fuse - it is non-resettable and must be replaced if blown.

HOW TO REPAIR IT:

If the Cutout has blown, a quick-and-dirty fix would be to solder a jumper wire across both printed circuit pads, thereby bypassing the cutout. However, this defeats the safety feature of having the cutout. A better option is to replace the cutout with a new one (which only costs around 45 cents). The cutout needs to be replaced with one that has a rating of around 128-135 degrees C.

In order to replace either the Cutout or transistor, the printed circuit board must be unsoldered at the 5 points shown in the photo above. A roll of solder wick makes the unsoldering job much easier.

Have fun! Jim
jimod4343,
Can you tell me where this control Amp is located?
I did not remove the fan yet. It will be helpful if I do not have to search for the contol unit if it it is necessary
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  #23  
Old 10-04-2012, 06:06 AM
enb54 enb54 is offline
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Originally Posted by jjmalan View Post
jimod4343,
Can you tell me where this control Amp is located?
I did not remove the fan yet. It will be helpful if I do not have to search for the contol unit if it it is necessary
I believe the fan control amplifier can be seen in post 8 picture 2 and in post 18 picture 1 and 3. It is mounted on the bottom of the assembly and should be held into the assembly by 2 Phillips head screws, I think you can remove this without taking out the whole blower assembly. See Jim's post 19 for detailed information and pictures of the removed amplifier, hope this helps...

Last edited by enb54; 10-04-2012 at 06:11 AM. Reason: Spelling
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  #24  
Old 12-04-2012, 11:25 AM
Quadraria10 Quadraria10 is offline
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Thanks to those who have gone so bravely before. You inspired me to try and change the bushings out for bearings. I get a loud grinding kind of sound intermitently that goes away after turning fan off and on. Sometimes takes a couple of times. I figure I am lucky its not worse so far...
Anyway I got so far as to take the glove section of the dash out, and removed the ecm bracket. I have identified all the connectors (3) to disconnect. (+ a fourth that is awkward think its for the climate control temp sensor. I note that there is one bolt and two screws holding the blower unit. My problem is the top left hand screw. How do you remove it. Is there a special tool (that I dont have) that allows you to remove a screw at a 90 degree angle with minimal clearance. I just cant figure out how to access it as there is a section of the dash cover on the left side that blocks direct access to the screw. From what I can tell from the manual I would have to remove the whole dash cover to move this one little blocking section?
Have had to renounce the project for today. Any ideas. Crazy thing is its a Bonavista edition, same as one already posted about here. How did you remove that screw? And while we are at it how to remove the small wire that goes accross top of the door where the filter goes in, to a connection that is hard to access and disconnect because of that one piece of dash cover on the left side. I cannot see its purpose other than to make access really tough to the blower motor.
Last thing there really isnt that much room to wiggle it out. How hard was it to reinstall and where are the so called locating pins mentioned in the manual? Any help would be appreciated.
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  #25  
Old 12-04-2012, 11:29 AM
Quadraria10 Quadraria10 is offline
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Hi
I have the same Bonavista edition. Curious how you removed the top left screw of the blower unit assembly. There is a part of the dash on the bottom left that blocks direct access to that screw. Was hoping you could tell me how you yours off.
All the best
Mike
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  #26  
Old 12-04-2012, 04:10 PM
enb54 enb54 is offline
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Hi
I have the same Bonavista edition. Curious how you removed the top left screw of the blower unit assembly. There is a part of the dash on the bottom left that blocks direct access to that screw. Was hoping you could tell me how you yours off.
All the best
Mike
Read post 8 and 10, you will likely have to remove everything the first time around (look at the photos in post 8), can't recall having problems removing the assembly, might have used a universal on my socket set for that screw but I can't remember. Perhaps someone else has some better answers...

Last edited by enb54; 12-04-2012 at 04:12 PM. Reason: clarification
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  #27  
Old 12-05-2012, 02:13 AM
Quadraria10 Quadraria10 is offline
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Thanks for getting back to me. Maybe I will try to take a pic of my problem and post it here. Curious how the repair works over time. Its a good sign if you haven't had to dig into the blower assembly a second time.
I find this a strange fault though because its been making noise only occasionally for the past two years and it disappears when I turn the fan off and on again. Other than that no whining sound or grinding sounds when its working, but then every few days its starts to make a loud noise once again. Happens sometimes when going over a bump or turning as described here, but I have noted it can also occur when parked. Its a strange one.
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  #28  
Old 12-10-2012, 06:39 AM
Quadraria10 Quadraria10 is offline
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Mystery solved. You can use a 10mm socket head on the screw.The trick is to use either one or a combo of ratchet extensions so that you can get at it. Its tight but there is room for the ratchet to operate between the air filter door cover and the piece of dash trim that remains on the right hand side.
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  #29  
Old 12-10-2012, 07:02 AM
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Glad to hear that you have succeeded, the rest is pretty easy, make sure you use 8mm spacer washers to minimize motor shaft end play and that the motor shaft turns easily by hand before you button everything up. The blower assembly requires a bit of "jiggling" to line back up with the dash air vent, but you have completed the lion's share of the work required.
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:15 AM
Quadraria10 Quadraria10 is offline
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Happy to report job done. Took a bit over 4 hours from start to finish. After reassembly, and starting her up anew, works fine and hasn't made any noise. That includes this morning at -16 Celsius. Its even a bit more powerful now.
Was a learning experience but worth the momentary frustrations in figuring it all out.
Some observations that may be of help to someone else
1) There are 3 clips holding the blower unit electrical connections, that you need to pinch from behind to be able to pop them out. They are behind the black plastic wraps that you will see holding the wiring for the unit to it.
2) All of the electrical wiring connectors are different, but all require you to insert a small flat screwdriver into an outside tab, which you depress and then pull out
3)the highest one up for the electrical door motor connector is a bit tricky and easier to access once you have the ecm completely removed. This is done by undoing the 2 mounting bolts holding it, and then undoing the electrical connectors (Make sure you have disconnected your battery prior to doing this.
4) Getting the blower unit out requires patience, and more than a little jiggling and swearing. Just make sure you are free of all wires. The right side of the blower with its outside tab and door motor gets kind of caught easily in the wires on the top right side of the dash.
5) Don't even bother pretending you can undo the tabs holding the blower unit together, just break each with a flat head screw driver, then undo the screws ( When you reassemble you just use more half inch screws in all of the holes already there)
6)The fan comes off by removing the top bolt and pulling the whole thing straight up.
7) Heat gun on first setting for about a minute around the plastic base will soften it sufficiently for you to put vice grips on motor shaft, hold the unit between your feet, and pull steadily. It will come out. (there is a screw that you need to have removed at the base).
8) Wire brush off soot, shavings, whatever you find. In mine the bushing really didnt seem bad, but there was a fair bit of crap under the bottom one when I got it out.
9) Only do one side at a time with the bearing replacement, and I think doing the front one first gives you a better chance of keeping the shaft in alignment. Also you need to bend back every tab not just the three that stick out the most. You wont be able to seat the bearing unless it can clear all of them . Use a 12mm or 13mm socket head to tap the bearing down until its properly seated all the way. Then I put on 2 8mm washers, though I could have probably used one and then all of the original washers and rubber disks, but the important thing is that you get it to the right height for the clip that locks into the groove on the shaft. Then bend down the clips as best you can around the bearing.
10) Then do the back side. Again all the clips need bending. The brass bushes come out by prying them up with pics on two sides. You are never removing the shaft, just sliding the bearing down it in place of the bushings. To this one I added one 8mm spacer and one of the thin washers that was originally on it. Again rebend the tabs around new bearing.
11) Push the motor back into the plastic housing, reconnect everything and screw it all together.
12) Get a good light under your dash and position the unit back in. Was actually easier than getting it out originally. Probably because I could see better lol!
Total part cost of repair was $15 tax included using 698-ZZ bearings.
Again thanks to those who went before, and who assured me it could be done.
All the best
Mike
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