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2008 Sentra SE R Catalytic Converter Gutted Forums > > 2008 Sentra SE R Catalytic Converter Gutted 2008 Sentra SE R Catalytic Converter Gutted
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  #1  
Old 08-09-2019, 11:21 AM
BigJim1 BigJim1 is offline
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Default 2008 Sentra SE R Catalytic Converter Gutted

I just bought a 2008 Sentra SE R Spec V, 2.5 engine 6 speed stick. The car will bog down heavily when the engine gets to operating temperature. The car is spitting a code for a bad catalytic converter. I pulled the front converter off to see how bad it is stopped up, there is nothing in there at all, clean as a whistle. The car dealer sold me a car with no converter.

Maybe I am wrong and it is supposed to be like that. That pre-cat on an Altima has the catalyst stuff in it and this one does not. I can see from the upstream 02 sensor hole to the downstream exhaust flange and there is nothing in there I can see the headers from the flange that hooks to the exhaust pipe. Could some one tell me if I am wrong or not?

Also would the cat being gutted cause the car to bog down really heavy. I did notice that the car is using a really lot of gas when it bogs also.
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  #2  
Old 08-10-2019, 10:47 AM
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A gutted upstream converter won't cause the bogging, but it will cause the ECM to trigger catalyst efficiency unless it is tricked by CEl eliminators or spacers on the rear O2 sensors. If there is a downstream converter, there is a possibility that the rear converter is clogged or restricted. An exhaust back-pressure test would show if that's an issue. There should be catalyst substrate in the upstream converter/manifold between the front and rear O2 sensors. That could be the issue, but it could be something else. If it is gutted, one would have to ask why that was done? Maybe the engine is running rich...or even burning oil? Is the fuel pressure too high? You many need to do more diagnostics and some testing may require a scan tool that can read live engine data. At the very least, you should contact the selling dealer if the converter has indeed been gutted, as they can get into legal trouble for that, which is considered "tampering with a federally controlled emission device."
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Old 08-10-2019, 04:27 PM
BigJim1 BigJim1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smj999smj View Post
A gutted upstream converter won't cause the bogging, but it will cause the ECM to trigger catalyst efficiency unless it is tricked by CEl eliminators or spacers on the rear O2 sensors. If there is a downstream converter, there is a possibility that the rear converter is clogged or restricted. An exhaust back-pressure test would show if that's an issue. There should be catalyst substrate in the upstream converter/manifold between the front and rear O2 sensors. That could be the issue, but it could be something else. If it is gutted, one would have to ask why that was done? Maybe the engine is running rich...or even burning oil? Is the fuel pressure too high? You many need to do more diagnostics and some testing may require a scan tool that can read live engine data. At the very least, you should contact the selling dealer if the converter has indeed been gutted, as they can get into legal trouble for that, which is considered "tampering with a federally controlled emission device."
I just can't believe this, I haven't looked under the rest of the car until today, they cut the rear catalytic converter out also. It hasn't been long either the pipe they use to replace the converter is still new and no rust on the weld bead at all. I was so ticked that I didn't look to see if they had cut the 02 sensor wires also. That is really going to make me very unhappy if they did.

The only code is for bank 1 catalytic converter. I do have a pretty good OBDIII reader and it does check a lot of stuff, I just don't know what i all means. What would cause the car to run rich, how would I check that?
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Old 08-10-2019, 07:01 PM
BigJim1 BigJim1 is offline
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A quick question, what is the part called that the top right motor mount is bolted to on the 2.5 engine? Two of the bolt holes are stripped out and for some weird reason someone had put two lock washers under the mount bolts. So the mount is actually a good 3/8 inch away from the part it is bolted to.

I also noticed the engine is extremely close to the side wall. It is so close that the belt will not slip past the balancer to replace the belt. I had to drive a wooden wedge between the motor and side wall so I could get the belt off. I hope if I can replace what ever that part is called that the top mount is bolted to it will correct the motor being so close to the side wall. No way I could even think of getting a wrench on the tensioner. Any one know what the part is called?
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Old 08-12-2019, 11:19 PM
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I'd have to see it in order to tell you what it is. I thought there was a weight on top of the mount to cut down vibration? But, like I said, I'd have to see what you are talking about.

A bad fuel pressure regulator, which I believe is built into the fuel pump module on that vehicle, can cause excessive fuel pressure and a rich running condition. A bad oxygen sensor or faulty ECM or leaking fuel injector can all do it, along with other things.

You said you just purchased the car and you bought it from a dealer. It is illegal for a car dealer to sell a vehicle with a tampered emission system. You should go back to the dealer and have them replace the catalytic converters at THEIR expense or, if you want, let them purchase the car back from you. If they don't, you should talk to a lawyer in regards to taking legal action against them and file a complaint with the BBB.
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Old 08-13-2019, 04:09 AM
BigJim1 BigJim1 is offline
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Thank you smj999smj I really do appreciate your information and I appreciate you. I ran a scan yesterday and I am sure the MAF is bad and I believe I have a bad Evap valve, or at least a leak in the system. I tested the 02 sensors and they passed so it looks like some expensive repairs coming up.

There is no one who will replace that rear cat because they won't want to do the work unless they buy the cat. I can't afford that, so I will see about making the dealer put the rear one back on. I see where there is a after market generic cat that will go in the back that is less expensive. I just don't know if there is an 02 sensor that goes in front of that back cat like on the Altima. I love this little Sentra and with the 2.5 Spec V that little dickens will move when it is cold.

Once again, thank you smj999smj. Oh if I can figure a way to post photos I will post a photo of the top mount and how they have it rigged.

Jim
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  #7  
Old 08-14-2019, 02:10 AM
BigJim1 BigJim1 is offline
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The front and the rear catalytic converters along with a new MAF sensor and new gas cap are on the way. I sure hope this fixes this little car.
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Old 08-15-2019, 12:01 PM
BigJim1 BigJim1 is offline
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Looks like they sent the wrong rear catalytic converter. Since the rear cat was cut out, I have no way of knowing what it is supposed to look like. The one they sent has 2 bolt holes in the flange. The pipe coming off the pre-cat has 3 holes. The pipe is straight and where they cut the cat out is just a straight piece of pipe welded in. I can't see how the rear cat they sent will fit anywhere in the system. Anyone have a link to what the rear cat is supposed to look like?
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Old 08-17-2019, 08:02 PM
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Go to NissanPartsDeal.com. You can look up parts by entering you VIN #, which makes searching easier. They have very good part diagrams there and should help you get a good picture of what your exhaust or converters should look like. Sometimes the converters/exhaust have a different layout between models that have Federal emissions certification versus California emissions certification.
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Old 08-17-2019, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJim1 View Post
A quick question, what is the part called that the top right motor mount is bolted to on the 2.5 engine? Two of the bolt holes are stripped out and for some weird reason someone had put two lock washers under the mount bolts. So the mount is actually a good 3/8 inch away from the part it is bolted to.

I also noticed the engine is extremely close to the side wall. It is so close that the belt will not slip past the balancer to replace the belt. I had to drive a wooden wedge between the motor and side wall so I could get the belt off. I hope if I can replace what ever that part is called that the top mount is bolted to it will correct the motor being so close to the side wall. No way I could even think of getting a wrench on the tensioner. Any one know what the part is called?
There isn't much room between the front of the engine and the engine compartment. The part you are looking at is the insulator, on the top, and the left-hand engine support. It does look kind of "off." I'd have to look at another one to compare it. Here's the part diagram link for it:

2008 Nissan Sentra Engine & Transmission Mounting
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  #11  
Old 08-18-2019, 03:59 AM
BigJim1 BigJim1 is offline
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smj999smj, thank you so much, that is a huge help, I have the link bookmarked.

I did get the front cat in yesterday. The down side is the heat shields didn't fit very well, most of the bolt holes were off so I had to improvise. When I went to put the fans back in, I had to bend the heat shield inward to get the fan unit in. The after market cats are not perfect. The flange that bolted to the engine was thicker but that is a good thing. I still don't have the rear cat on yet, still working on that one.

Thanks again smj999smj, I really do appreciate you.
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Old 08-18-2019, 04:16 AM
BigJim1 BigJim1 is offline
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I just checked out the link you gave me, that dealer cut the flange off where the rear cat bolts to, man I got a mess to fix now or put out some serious bucks for new parts. Dad burn dealer, I should make him fix it since he messed it up.
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