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2004 Nissan Quest Is my chain in time? Forums > > 2004 Nissan Quest Is my chain in time? 2004 Nissan Quest Is my chain in time?
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  #1  
Old 07-22-2016, 05:17 AM
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YGpersistant YGpersistant is offline
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Default 2004 Nissan Quest Is my chain in time?

YGpersistant;99813]I'm in the process of this guide and tensioner replacement on my 2004 Nissan Quest. Two more payments and I'm done. Haven't driven it in 9 months. It still ran, but my ticking noise was just embarrassing! I read about the access panel, but when it came down to it, I let a shop go in for me and replace the tensioner through the access panel. I was excited that he would do it, because every where I asked the cost was $1800 or more to do the complete job. Well he changed it and still left the guide where it was. I'm a mechanically inclined female who felt like I had just got played. I knew better, I just had a fear of disturbing the timing. Well I got mad and removed everything. As I was placing the tensioner back in place (after figuring out how to compress it again) The chain moved. It felt too loose somehow. Worried because I didnt line anything up. I hadnt planned on changing the chain! The marks on the chain were no longer visible. I ran and purchased the chain.The front cam's marks all lined up, but the rear one was off by about 5-6 links. Only the pulley's mark was off, not the smaller chain behind it. I was going to leave it as it was, but I went ahead and bought two longer bolts to replace two of the four bolts in the rear cam pulley. I used the to pry the cam's movement forward (clockwise) to throw the chain on at it's mark. It initially turned easy, then I had to hold it in place with one hand while putting the chain on with the other. I was on link off so i tried again. This time I lost my grip on it and it fell forward out of time about 5-6 links in the opposite direction. I moved it back into position actually resulting in about a quarter turn. I lined up the mark on the crank shaft and held my chain on both sides (tension and water pump) with one hand while turning the balancer with the other to get the excess tension to replace my guide and tensioner. It worked. Everything lined up! Now I'm afraid to put it back together and give it a try because I dont know if Im on the compression stroke. It took some courage to get this far and I dont want to remove the intake manifold. I turned the crank manually on turn and the marks were 180 degrees off. I made anothe full rotation and the rear cam pulley is off by about a link. They other two are okay. There was some resistance while spinning the crank but I didnt have to use too much force to do so. What is my next move. If I put everything back together will I destroy my engine if Im wrong? Is there a way to hook up power and try it with the cover still off so I dont have to undo everything If I need to move the rear pulley again? Help me please. I refuse to buy a new car right now!
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  #2  
Old 07-24-2016, 04:27 AM
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smj999smj smj999smj is offline
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If the timing marks on the chains were lined up to the proper mating marks on the gears after you released the tensioners, it should be fine. Once you rotate the engine, the timing marks on the chain may not line up again with the mating marks on the gears. When you had the chains installed initially, there was really no reason to manually turn the engine and, FYI, you would have been on #1 TDC, already. You can't run that engine without the cover on. If you're not sure, then pull it apart and re-align all of the timing marks, again. Then, release the tensioners to put tension on the chains and put the engine back together.
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Old 07-24-2016, 07:03 AM
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Done, I got tired of looking at it sitting on jack stands. I had a day off, so I put everything back together already. I unplugged the relay for the ignition and fuel pump and turned the ignition a few times, then put everything back together again. She sounds so much better. I'm impressed with myself! I've got codes though. Po1212, po340, U1000, and U1001. I checked this morning and I hadnt tightened down my ground wire coming from the harness. I disconnected the battery and tightened that one, and took loose three others that I saw on the frame to clean them up and replace them. I know my battery should have a good charge. I just bought it a couple of months ago, but I'll check anyway. As for the p0340. Both cam and crank poosition sensor codes came up prior to me looking at the timing chain, so I replaced all three. I'm thinking this code is for bamk two. It doesnt specify on my code reader as it did before. Anyway, straight above that I'm leaking wiper fluid from the I guess wiper motor which sits above this connection. I did a job on this connector and had to go to the juunk yard to repplace it. I think its done right I just have to check it. I worked all night on the car, messed around and didnt get a good seal on my oil pan. Part of the gasket squeezed out. Im about to redo the oil pan and cross my fingers that the codes go away when I start her up again. Also at times lately before I decided to do this repair, at times to get her started I'd have to spray starter fluid to get her to turn over. How do I check my fuel pressure? I'm sure there is a gadget that I can buy for that too? I've got some Lucas to start with before I dig too deep into that though. Thanks for replying. Im going to get started. Ill give and update about those codes soon. I just want my baby back!!
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Old 07-24-2016, 01:47 PM
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Still getting code p0340!! Bought a brand new sensor again! I tested all leads for resistance on the wires that i added and on the wires for the connector that i got from the junk yard i tested them for continuity. At first, well I'm not sure about a neg. resistance reading on one of the three wires, but if i move the dial to 200ohms i get a reading. This generic meter is killing me! Anywho. I was thinking that possibly the wires were crossed. The sig/volt and volt/sig possibly. I tested all three to ground and eliminated which of the three is the ground wire. Now I've reinstalled twice switching the two wires only to find that the codes in my OBD are there whether connected or not! I have to figure out how to clear them and start fresh. One is stored and one is pending connected or not. It is about 100 degrees in my part of Illinois and i cant do anymore today. She has a rough start then she runs so smooth that you cant hear it and after a few minutes (8-10) she cuts off. My brain is fried for today. Any ideas? Ive come so far!
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