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  #1  
Old 03-02-2015, 10:50 AM
scubacamper scubacamper is offline
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2004 Quest SL
 
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Location: Chattanooga, TN
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Default Camshaft Sensor Issues with stalling

2004 Quest SL - 200,000 miles

within the last 2 quarters, I replaced the camshaft position sensor due to occasional sluggish performance after starting (which would be alleviated by turning the engine off and starting it back up again).

The vehicle's occurrences of the sluggishness appeared to decline, but have since returned....with a vengeance, it seems.

Now, instead of giving me just sluggish acceleration, now it will completely die on me while running down the road. It seems every time I drive the thing (less than 5 miles), it will stall once and I will drift to the side of the road, turn the car off, then crank it back up again.

The re-start generally requires a longer-than-normal "hold-time" on the key before the motor will engage.

Then, it runs fine and takes me to my destination, albeit illuminating the SLIP and TCS Off lights, as well a SES (code PO340).

I have ordered another sensor, hoping it is just a faulty sensor, although I doubt it, given it was a Bosch part (which usually has pretty good parts, right?).

If you can offer any other suggestions, I would greatly appreciate it.
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  #2  
Old 03-02-2015, 05:28 PM
smj999smj's Avatar
smj999smj smj999smj is offline
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Stick with genuine Nissan sensors, ignition parts and electronics and fuel pumps. Aftermarket parts in all those categories, including Bosch parts, have had a lot of quality and reliability issues.
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  #3  
Old 03-03-2015, 04:38 AM
scubacamper scubacamper is offline
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So the new sensor arrived yesterday & I replaced it.

Driving the van to work this morning - ran fine up until I scanned my badge to get into the parking garage - darn thing stalled on me....again.

I'm about ready to push this thing off a cliff.
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  #4  
Old 03-05-2015, 04:10 AM
scubacamper scubacamper is offline
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So apparently, after doing a bit more research on the service manual, it seems Bank 1 is the one closer to the firewall....

Yeah, I've been replacing the wrong *#$@'n sensor! :)

I've ordered a new one and will keep y'all posted.
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  #5  
Old 03-11-2015, 07:49 AM
scubacamper scubacamper is offline
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Okay - well, I got the sensor in on 3/9/15 and replaced it. To-date, no further issues, although I still have the CEL....which I imagine will go away after a while. If it doesn't, I'll just do the ol' disconnect battery trick.

If you're curious, here are the steps involved in replacing the bank 1 sensor:

You will need the following tools:
A. Ratchet
B. Socket (10mm)
C. Socket Extension (about 1 foot in length)
D. Phillips Head Screwdriver
E. Extend-able magnet pick-up tool
F. Standard Tip screwdriver
G. Shop light or other form of illumination device
H. Long needle-nose pliers

Begin by letting the vehicle cool for approximately 30 minutes (less time, if you've got the hood popped & opened).
Optional preliminary step: Open & drink beer while waiting for vehicle to cool, (assuming you're of legal drinking age, of course!!).

1. Remove battery (10mm socket, or 10mm combination wrench) - both for terminals and battery hold-down.
a. (Clean off terminals with a wire brush if you notice corrosion - consider possibly replacing the positive, removable, terminal if corrosion is significant - this will require a 12mm socket). You will want to do this as early as possible if you notice significant corrosion as it is MUCH easier to replace the end-portion of the terminal, than having to replace the entire positive battery cable.
2. Remove air box:
a. open & remove lid as well as air filter element.
b. loosen hose clamps on lid as well as the clamp up toward the throttle body.
3. Remove air intake tube & disconnect all vacuum lines & electrical connectors - gently lay intake tube aside (gently!! - it's got a delicate MAF sensor inside it)
4. with your light, look on the side of the motor, just below the throttle body and toward the front of the vehicle. Look for a GREEN wire connector - there are 2, one in the front (bank 2) and one further back (bank 1).
5. Using a standard-tip screwdriver (or other pushing tool), push on the wire connector where you think you might grip & squeeze to pull it off - it's not that type of sensor. Push the flat piece inward toward the sensor and it should unlock the wire connector from the sensor.
6. Gently pull the wire connector off the sensor (if it's requiring a lot of force, return to step 5 and try it again).
7. With your 10mm socket & 1-foot extension, unscrew the one (1) bolt holding the sensor in place.
a. TIP: As you reach the end of the threads, gently ease the socket & extension away, trying your best to leave the bolt where it is. This is what your magnetic grabber is for - stick it in there & retrieve the bolt.
b. Obviously this is optional, but definitely recommended; if you drop that bolt - good luck finding it without tearing everything apart!!
8. with a pair of long pliers, gently grip the receiving end of the connector on the sensor and pull it out - you'll have to give it a good tug as it's seated in there with a rubber o-ring. If you pop it out and happen to leave it there, your magnetic pick-up tool can also retrieve it.
9. apply a thin coat of oil to the new sensor's O-Ring (should come with one on it already)
10. gingerly place the new sensor into it's hole and align it so that the bolt holes line up as closely as possible.
11. Using your magnetic pick-up tool, carefully place the bolt in the bolt hole. (If you have magnetic sockets, that would also work).
12. tighten bolt back down to the specified torque (don't overtighten as you risk breaking the plastic sensor).
13. Push the green plug connector back onto the sensor until you feel or hear it *click* into place.
14. Re-assemble parts in reverse order as disassembly.
15. If your CEL (Check engine light) was on prior to servicing, consider leaving battery disconnected for several hours (perhaps even overnight) to reset the error codes.

Optional 16th step: Drink victory beer for a job well-done, and several more if you plan on not driving for a while. :)

I hope this helps.

There is also a youtube video on this very topic - just search for P0340 or P0345 Nissan Quest and you should find it.
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  #6  
Old 03-22-2015, 06:43 AM
scubacamper scubacamper is offline
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Update:

It's been almost 2 weeks since the sensor was replaced. I have not since had ANY issues whatsoever. In fact, the CEL has turned itself off.

I was having the P0340 and P0420 codes at the same time, and now they're both gone.

I hope this helps!
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  #7  
Old 03-26-2015, 07:19 AM
dtownfb dtownfb is offline
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Good to hear scubacamper. The other thing to keep in mind is if the van feels sluggish after starting again, it could be the transmission module acting funny. Do a search on sluggish acceleration and transmission module. The early Quests (2004) have this issue. And like you mentioned, it goes away when you re-start the van.
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  #8  
Old 04-01-2015, 05:17 AM
scubacamper scubacamper is offline
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To-date, no performance issues. Well, except for an unrelated shifting issue, which has been happening since I bought the car...

(throttle will surge upward slightly just before shifting when the motor is cold)
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  #9  
Old 05-12-2015, 10:20 AM
scubacamper scubacamper is offline
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Still no issues - 2 mos later
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camshaft, issues, sensor, stalling

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