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 Cure for VQ35 Timing Chain Rattle in 05 Quest Forums > >  Cure for VQ35 Timing Chain Rattle in 05 Quest $67 Cure for VQ35 Timing Chain Rattle in 05 Quest
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Quest Nissan Quest Discussion Forum

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  #76  
Old 06-05-2017, 08:34 PM
junker junker is offline
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2004 Quest
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RFKJR View Post
I built the piece up a little more before installing it for good. I also made the pocket the tensioner fits in a little deeper. I'd really like to know what the experienced Nissan gurus think about this attempted fix.
I really like that. What did you make this out of and how did you "build it up"?

Is there any threat that the tensioner could pull back and this part would "float" possibly falling down into the engine?

Thanks!
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  #77  
Old 06-06-2017, 03:20 AM
RFKJR RFKJR is offline
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2005 Altima Sedan
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 14
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I made it out of pieces of flat steel, and thick 1/2" flat washers. It is mig welded together, and I built up the tabs on the end until they were the height I thought was best. I wanted the tab on the left side in the picture to be close to the steel part of the tensioner that the plastic rides on, so some of the pressure from the tensioner would be applied to the metal as well as to the plastic piece. The tensioner only moves out, as the spring clip keeps it from being able to retract when oil pressure is zero. I had asked for gurus opinions on this, as in my mind even if it fell out it couldnt go far and would likely sit at the bottom of the front cover where it meets the oil pan. IT has been running since the end of March, and has about 6000 miles on it. So far so good.
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  #78  
Old 09-05-2017, 06:33 PM
[email protected] dougb@mnsoft.com is offline
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2005 Quest
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 6
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Did you insert the custom metal piece onto the tensioner thru the tensioner cover or did you remove the timing chain cover to install?

Is the custom metal piece still working correctly?

Is the timing chain quiet when starting cold engine?
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  #79  
Old 09-06-2017, 11:02 AM
RFKJR RFKJR is offline
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2005 Altima Sedan
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 14
Default Tensioner mod

Yes I inserted the piece I made through the tensioner opening in the front cover. I was changing the water pump when I found the guide had slid down. I didnt want to remove the front cover, so I decided to try making something to keep it up in place. Also, I believe the chain direction is from bottom to top when operating, so really you just need to keep it from slipping down when oil pressure is at zero. The car is still running fine, very quiet. No noise on startup.
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  #80  
Old 09-06-2017, 11:50 AM
[email protected] dougb@mnsoft.com is offline
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2005 Quest
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 6
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The metal piece (tensioner bracket) appears to be a solution to the broken guide. Nissan should never have made the chain guide with plastic after all of the broken guides.

Were you able to reach your hand or a tool thru the tensioner opening and simply slide the timing chain guide up and slip into the slot of tensioner bracket?

Could the tensioner bracket be cut\formed from a solid piece of soft alloy? Start with a square piece of the alloy and cut\file into the finished shape?

Do you know the dimensions so it could be duplicated?

Last edited by [email protected]; 09-06-2017 at 01:22 PM.
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  #81  
Old 09-06-2017, 03:44 PM
RFKJR RFKJR is offline
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2005 Altima Sedan
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 14
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I removed the chain tensioner which is necessary to change the water pump. It's easier to remove it and put it on a bench and release it to reset it then it is to try to reset it in the vehicle. Plus I replaced it with a new one because the gasket molded into the bottom of it was not in good condition and I didn't want to take any chances. I slipped the piece i made in along with the tensioner, bolted up the tensioner and then pulled the grenade pin on it to release the tensioner. I made the piece out of things I had in my shop. I wanted the piece to be held in place by the two washers at slipped over the end of the tensioner push rod. They make it where the piece cannot slide down off the plunger. It is trapped there. I suppose you could make it out of anything you wanted to. If you had access to a machine shop you could probably machine it all out of one piece and not do any welding. Mine was trial-and-error till I got it to fit just the way I wanted it to with welding and grinding and welding and grinding. As far as deminsions, unfortunately when I got it the way I wanted I put the thing together. You could kind of look at the pictures and get some ideas but really I made it to fit exactly the way I thought it would work best and it has worked well so far.

Last edited by RFKJR; 09-06-2017 at 03:48 PM.
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  #82  
Old 05-15-2021, 06:53 PM
Spinal Spinal is offline
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2005 Murano
 
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 1
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Greetings. Happy to be allow to post here. Will tackle on my 2005 Murano. I ordered the OEM tensioner and OEM guide. Not sure if will cut the guide or make bracket yet. Any updates or tips for my upcoming task. Thanks in advance!
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  #83  
Old 10-12-2021, 05:48 PM
glenniam2 glenniam2 is offline
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2006 Quest
2002 Altima Sedan
 
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 1
Default 2006 Nissan Quest easy fix worked

Quote:
Originally Posted by shadetree View Post
I found what could be the easiest fix yet. One month and still working.

I verified my 2004 Quest with 90K miles has the broken timing guide and after spending $38 on the new tensioner with no luck was faced with donating it for a tax write off or coming up with an easy fix.

The root cause is that the tensioner fully extends and can no longer take up the slack against the plastic guide in its new position. So, lengthen the tensioner push rod.

I added an air fitting that I had that fit perfectly over the piston head. See some example pictures below. These may not be the exact one but give you the idea. You just need to add about 3/8 additional length. I added just shy of the difference that hump in the plastic guide provided.

http://i.frg.im/3V2gjc9/281726522995-0.jpg
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/a/(KGrHq...w~~/s-l300.jpg
https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1CwaWL...b-1-b-font.jpg
https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1FyOqH...pg_640x640.jpg

Note, I cut slits in the side to allow the hydraulic fluid good exit paths.

I was concerned at first with applying that pressure to the weaker part of the plastic guide but after some research, the tensioner applies very little pressure, its job is just to take out slack.

The spring in the tensioner applies enough force to assure the cap stays engaged and does not come loose and fall into the engine.

Try at your own risk, but so far, so good with mine.

Time to fix: 2 hours
Cost of material: $0.85
Reading about folks spending $1000s to pull the engine....priceless.

Good Luck!
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Hi,
Just an FYI that I was able to follow the really easy fix by Shadetree and it worked great on my 2006 Nissan Quest (160K miles).I already had a compressor/air hose connector like the one Shadetree used and fit fine. I did install a new tensioner valve as well. I am a bit concerned about the piston and added connector pushing against the incorrect section of the guide, but so far it is working like a charm. Took me about 2.5 hours for the whole job. So far I have driven it about 5 times for about 100 miles total and no issues at all.

Also, I did follow the instructions to rotate the crank pulley clockwise about 10-20 degrees or so and it helped to get some slack on the chain to help with the install. I did not have any issues with the timing jumping.

I will check back later and comment as time goes by if it continues to work. Maybe we can get another year or 2 out of it now . . .

Thanks for the suggestion Shadetree and thanks to all others as well. Great forum here.
- Glenn
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  #84  
Old 10-12-2021, 10:19 PM
junker junker is offline
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2004 Quest
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glenniam2 View Post
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Hi,
Just an FYI that I was able to follow the really easy fix by Shadetree and it worked great on my 2006 Nissan Quest (160K miles).I already had a compressor/air hose connector like the one Shadetree used and fit fine. I did install a new tensioner valve as well. I am a bit concerned about the piston and added connector pushing against the incorrect section of the guide, but so far it is working like a charm. Took me about 2.5 hours for the whole job. So far I have driven it about 5 times for about 100 miles total and no issues at all.

Also, I did follow the instructions to rotate the crank pulley clockwise about 10-20 degrees or so and it helped to get some slack on the chain to help with the install. I did not have any issues with the timing jumping.

I will check back later and comment as time goes by if it continues to work. Maybe we can get another year or 2 out of it now . . .

Thanks for the suggestion Shadetree and thanks to all others as well. Great forum here.
- Glenn
That's good news. Do you know what size air fitting you used? Where did you get the tensioner valve? Do you have a part number?

Thanks!
Matt
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$67, chain, cure, quest, rattle, slack guide, tensioner, timing, vq35

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