smj999smj |
07-18-2019 04:34 AM |
As long as you don't run the master cylinder dry, you should need to bleed the entire brake system. Get a rubber cap (if you have the rubber cab still on the brake bleeder nipple, you may be able to use that) to cap off the end of the brake line after you disconnect it from the wheel cylinder to prevent the fluid from running out. Change out the wheel cylinder and then top off the master cylinder, if needed. Remove the cap from the line and connect it to the wheel cylinder. Then, when everything is back together and the rear brakes are adjusted, just bleed the line to the wheel cylinder you replaced. Since brake fluid will be running out of the line from the moment you disconnect it, it doesn't suck air into the hydraulic circuit. So, the only air you will really be bleeding out is that which was in the wheel cylinder, itself. Now, that's all you have to do unless your plan is to flush the entire brake hydraulic system. If that's the case, follow the brake bleeding procedure in the factory service manual, which you get free, online access to at NICO Club. The fact that it is ABS usually isn't an issue or change much in the bleeding procedure. Sometimes they well instruct to disconnect the battery before bleeding. Also, don't assume that the bleeding procedure is "furthest back to closest to the master cylinder," like was the standard procedure eons ago. That's not always the case on cars with ABS systems and Nissan has several bleeding procedures depending on the year and model of the vehicle.
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