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crmnhenderson 07-21-2009 07:16 AM

99 Maxima Starting Issues and other problems
Hi everyone,

I have been having a problem with my maxima that has lasted about a year. In the past year I have had the starter replaced twice and the car has failed to start on me a third time. With each replacement the car still did not seem to start as readily as it did when we first got it and it would gradually get harder and harder to start until it just did not turn over at all. What could be the cause of the repeated starting issues?

Also before the car failed to start this last time it began to have a rough idle. Do you know what is causing that?
The blow motor also won't blow out any air, hot or cold, unless it is on the highest setting.

Lastly, there seems to be something leaking into the car on the drivers side. It is constantly wet underneath the pedals. What could that be?

If you could please tell me at least one of the solutions to one of the problems and how to fix it in detail for I am a novice at the car thing. If you can't tell me how to fix it but you know the cause I would appreciate that also. I greatly appreciate all of your responses.

mpe235 07-21-2009 04:58 PM

The starting problem could be caused by a bad ignition switch. It was pretty common on the older maximas. When it doesn't start try wiggling the key in the ignition cylinder to see if it will crank.
Several things could cause the rough idle. I would start with a basic tune up (spark plugs air filter and fuel filter)
The blower motor working only on the high setting is caused by a bad blower resistor
The leak under the pedals could be caused by a plugged evaporator drain. This could also be the reason that the blower resistor went bad.

crmnhenderson 07-22-2009 02:07 PM

Thank you mpe235. I will try all the things you stated starting with testing the ignition switch and I will let you know the outcome.

crmnhenderson 08-14-2009 12:24 PM

I'm sorry that I am replying back so late. My computer broke on me. I tried shaking the key in the ignition switch while trying to start but that did nothing. I also tried starting while in neutral and drive, which did nothing as well. We tried to take the starter off so it could get tested but because of lack of the right tools got down to the starter and had to quit. From there we sent it to our personal mechanic who finished taking out the starter and replaced it, and since this is the third starter placed in the car the autoparts store said we had to pay for the starter because it must be an electrical issue within the car and not the starter. After replacing the starter, the car would not start at all so my husband used the key fob directions on the site and at least got the car to crank... but it did not start. The mechanic then hooked it up to some machine and said that he was getting a code for the MAF but he did not want to replace it when he wasn't sure if that was the actual problem, because its so expensive. He recommended that we take it to a business that had more machines and computers that could test it further.

So we've spent more money towing it to the new business. Bless them because they have been trying to figure out what is wrong with the car and they can't seem to get anywhere with it, but they are still trying. This happened when we changed the battery a little over a year ago, before we knew about the key fob reprogramming, and we ended up having to take it to nissan dealership where they charged us for reprogramming the key fob, thus letting us know that it was the security system that was stopping the car from starting.

The new repair shop says they have hooked t up to every computer and machine they have and everything seems to be working fine, except for not getting a signal from the fuel injectors. So they are thinking its the security system also. They tried calling the nissan guys but of course nissan would rather see us waste more money than help us with solving the problem.

So in all we have gone from the computer at Advanced auto parts stating that we had a problem with the EGR valve and nothing else reported (this was when the car was still running a day or two prior to completely shutting down). To the personal mechanic saying he was getting a reading for the MAF and nothing else. Now to the auto repair shop that says they are only not getting a reading from the fuel injectors and from all the tests they have done everything else seems to be okay.
I know this is a lot in one post and I'm sorry but I and the repair shop are at our wits end! Does anyone possibly know what to do next? How to get the security system to allow the car to start? Anything?


streamcast 08-14-2009 04:55 PM

is the security light on solid while cranking? Do the car crank at all? If it is a security issue you should be able to deactivate the security using the key by locking and unlocking the drivers door. Also I did have a problem like yours on same year and it was the anti theft relay giving the problem. I hope this helps.

crmnhenderson 08-14-2009 07:35 PM

Thanks streamcast. I will have to see if the security light stays on when I go to get the car, which will be late next week. I'm not exactly sure where the anti-theft relay is though. I'm going to try the lock and unlock method and the on switch method I just found in the owner's manual. Hopefully something will give. I would like to make the car totally functional very soon and spending all of this money is really wearing on us. Is there a place in the factory service manual where I could find info on the relay system and the security and immobiliser systems? I'm not exactly sure where to look.
Thanks again for your quick reply.

streamcast 08-15-2009 04:25 AM

Look in the index section of the manual. It may give a fuse and relay location/. I do beleive that the relay is out side by the battery. Should be marked on the covers.

crmnhenderson 08-21-2009 04:22 PM

Ok... so here is what has happened in the past two days. We ended up towing the car to the nissan dealership. Which in turn told us that the problem is the fuel pump, that there is no pressure whatsoever and we must have it replaced to the estimated tune of $790. Needless to say this put us in complete shock. We called the previous mechanic to let him know and he said that he tested the fuel pump (he did have it for a whole week and ran a myriad of tests and consulted quite a few people about the car) and there is absolutely nothing wrong with the fuel pump. The pressure was just fine. So that mechanic called the nissan dealership to let them know that he tested it and there was nothing wrong with it and that everything is pointing to the anti-theft system within the car. During the conversation the dealership told him that our key fob does not work, but we know it does work and so does the mechanic. So pretty much that let us know that they charged us over $100 to test nothing. And our mechanic is pretty mad at them for trying to take advantage of us. He said that if we needed a fuel pump he would have put one on and it would have been a good job because it is one of the money makers in the business. And this mechanic I trust more than the dealership at this point.
Our mechanic said that the security light just stays on, no blinking or anything when the key is put into the ignition, and the car does crank. So right now the car is still at the dealership, we may have it towed back home since we do not know what to do with it. At this point we wish we had enough money to take advantage of the cash for clunkers program. I'm ready to chuck this car in the lake, it has given us nothing but problems since we bought it.
I don't know if we have any other options. Our mechanic said that if we could get another key and have that programmed into the car then it should start to work again, but the dealerships are insisting that they must have the car in order to order the correct key and program it into the computer. Which of course would cost us another $100 plus the amount for the key and programming.
I don't know what to do.

streamcast 08-21-2009 04:27 PM

if it is at the dealership have them reprogram the existing keys and see if this works. Alos poss a code once scanned will exist if the security system is failing. Also when you lock the car using the key with the drivers door wait 60 sec and see if the security light flashes. But I would recommend have he dealership reprogram the key, and start from there especially if the light stays solid while cranking.

Zentink 06-28-2013 04:06 PM

Try replacing some coal packs that will make it idle funny because the engine is misfiring.

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