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Forums > > 3.3L Knock Sensor Relocation
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  #31  
Old 03-19-2010, 04:43 AM
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this article would could be improved on if someone circled the orginal knock sensor location for newbies as well as list the knock sensor part number they will be using.
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  #32  
Old 03-21-2010, 02:54 PM
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Thanks Gary3701!

I performed the relocation and everything is working fine, passed the smog test, too.

I used a $21 knock sensor from Ebay Seller User ID: eurasia_parts. It seems to be working fine so far. I used the maxima stub harness Gary3701 recommends. There's only one wire coming out of the stub harness, with a braided metal shield around it. The same can be said for the harness coming from the original knock sensor. Just connect the shields and connect the wires.


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  #33  
Old 03-23-2010, 10:01 AM
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1998 Pathfinder has 1 wire KS and Stub Harness? I have already bought the 2 wire. Any help would be great. If I need to buy the 1 wire, cant seem to find them.
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  #34  
Old 03-23-2010, 03:23 PM
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It may seem a little confusing, but the stub harness has 1 conductor wire and 1 braided wire used for electrical shielding. Hope this helps
Gary
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  #35  
Old 03-24-2010, 12:10 PM
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The Maxima stub harness connects to the new knock sensor, which has two pins. Once you cut the harness, however, you'll see there is only one wire, with a braided shield around it. One of the pins on the knock sensor does not connect to anything.

The same is true when you cut the harness leading to the old knock sensor- one wire, with braided shield.
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  #36  
Old 03-24-2010, 12:36 PM
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Default knock sensor 98 Nissan PF

what color is the 1 wire
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  #37  
Old 04-02-2010, 02:30 PM
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Careful trusting colors. The Maxima harness p/n 24079-31U01 I just bought has only one connector in the plastic housing. Two wires in the harness and they used the clear coated wire to be the signal and white wire for shield ground (not conventional). A basic ohmmeter is a very good tool. The sensor will be grounded by the base when bolted to the engine. You can read approx 530 K ohms from the harness wire through sensor to engine ground before it splicing.
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  #38  
Old 04-02-2010, 03:23 PM
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correction approx 560 K ohms on a good sensor.
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  #39  
Old 04-04-2010, 08:24 PM
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One thing I haven't seen answered, the knock sensor you need will be for the 99 maxima since it connects to the maxima harness. From what i've read it has the same specs.
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  #40  
Old 04-04-2010, 08:27 PM
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Has anyone performed the relocation and had the p0328 code come back? I just relocated yesterday, cleared the codes, took it for a test drive and bam, they were back. I cleared them again today and the same thing...Any suggestions?

Thanks


2002 Frontier CC, Supercharged Value Edition, 4WD
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  #41  
Old 04-05-2010, 02:47 AM
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Is there any other code associated with your knock sensor code? An all out knock sensor failure will give primary symptoms like an erratic idle and secondary symptoms like horrid gas mileage. On my 99 qx4 I had two codes stores one was the knock sensor and the other was an emissions component. ( didn't say specifically) In most cases a doesn't equal b. For example a faulty air temp sensor triggers a knoc sensor code because these two items work off each other.
Double check your work, see what comes back and report back.
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  #42  
Old 04-05-2010, 07:23 PM
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I occasionally have a p0456 evap leak code that pops up and I can smell gas near the drivers rear wheel. I need to look at the charcoal canister area when I get a chance. It hasn't come on in the last 2 days since I relocated the knock sensor, yet. I did find a vacuum hose on the back of the supercharger that was off, think when I had my AC fixed a couple of months ago they must have knocked the hose off since it is near the low pressure valve. This vacuum leak caused my supercharger bypass valve to close but now seems to work correctly. The bypass valve reduces boost and bypasses the SC but I have read that the knock sensor code will also reduce performance, does it mean the SC is also being bypassed with the knock sensor code too?
I have an occasional miss while idling and my gas mileage is usually pretty bad (12-13.5 mpg). I read on another forum to change the plugs and plug wires to eliminate the knock sensor codes...I will try that next, even though I replaced the plugs less than 2 years ago (what a pain with this SC in the way).
Any other thoughts?
Thanks!
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  #43  
Old 04-21-2010, 11:07 PM
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Default 03 Xterra KS - Stub harness doesn't mate to the KS...

Hi Guys,

I purchased the appropriate KS for a 2003 3.3 and the Stub Harness 24079-31U01.

The connectors don't mate up. Ideas?

Thanks

Andy
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  #44  
Old 04-22-2010, 06:54 PM
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Yeah I did the same thing, the harness is for a maxima, but I didn't order the maxima KS, I ordered a Frontier KS. I modified my KS by cutting the top of the plastic housing to expose the contacts and soldered wires to it. I ended up throwing away the maxima harness. Either way the KS codes still show up on my reader. I don't know if I messed up my KS or if it was defective, or if its another problem. I measured the resistance of both the old one in place and the new one and they both read about 560 Kohms, so I'm at a loss to why the KS codes reappear...

Good luck with the relocation and I hope yours works!

Marc
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  #45  
Old 05-01-2010, 05:35 PM
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Dunno,did you clear the codes with a scan tool? If not the code will stay stored until you do. Does the MIL(check engine) light come on? I just fixed mine,I think,lol, I spread the male connectors out a hair for a better connection. I cleared the code,so far so good. Runs alot smoother & no ping when I power brake it. I think mine was caused because I did the right valve cover gasket & had to disconnect that connector. Make sure there's no other codes like multiple cylinder misfire or system lean. It may be as simple as a fuel filter. If you have a good scan tool you can look at the long & short fuel trim while it's running to see if it's lean. I gonna take it for a ride up a hill & see if the code comes back. BTW, you don't need a harness to relocate it if you have a razor blade & some skill. Cut the wireharness cover back starting at the rear of the engine & trace the black insulated single wire to where it splits into 2,splice in some leads with small female spades to the new sensor,remount it,done. I didn't have to relocate so far but I did trace it back just in case. It is a clear shielded wire under the black insulation until you go up the harness further. I had to quit anyway,it got dark & me & razor blades don't get along as it is.
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