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Need to Program Computer (ECM or ECU?)
Hello,
New to the forum, but I have tried googling these things. I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder V6. I sent it off for repair because the computer was "burned" (it was black). (I am asking my dad what had been done so these are his words). So we sent it off for repair had it repaired and coded and it was sent back. So after plugging it back in the RPM wouldn't steady out it would rise and die down repeatedly. Called the repairer for what he did on the computer and we said to change the motherboard and he programmed it. Same issue. I had thought the key would be the problem so i called a locksmith who programmed the key, and I asked him to program the computer since he said he could. He did that and same issue with rpm, I told him about it and he got mad and deleted everything on the computer (I assume since it won't start now.) I have the computer and it looks like Module Repair Pro fixed it. Module Repair Pro INC Thinking it needs reprograming now. Any clue? |
#2
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If the vehicle started, the key wasn't the problem. It sounds like it needed an idle air volume relearn. Now that it won't start, I can't say what your issue is without hooking up a scan tool to see if it communicates. If the security light stays "on" when you put the key in and turn it to the "on" position, it is likely a security system issue. The key is initialized to the ECM and it takes a Nissan Consult II or later scan tool or similarly capable scan tool to initialize the key. The same goes for programming the ECM software. If the ECM was burnt, there was a short somewhere that likely caused it and if you don't fix that, the same thing will happen to the new ECM. Your best bet is to take it to a dealer and get it properly diagnosed. Will it be expensive? Possibly. Will they want to sell you a new ECM? Possibly.
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#3
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Quote:
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#4
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Okay, the IACV/AAC valve failing and taking out the ECM is fairly common. When you say he deleted the whole coding, I'm not sure what that means? If the key is not initialized to the ECM, it will not start; you'll have to get the key initialized so the ECM will recognize it and get it to start before you do anything else.
Idle air volume relearning is tricky due to a number of parameters have to be within specific ranges (i.e. fuel temperature) or the relearn will not complete. The "non scan tool method" is very difficult to complete and even if you do have a capable scan tool, it's not always easy. The other possibility is that the circuit between the IACV/AAC valve and the ECM is damaged, so, you may need to check it for opens or shorts and make sure there is good continuity with almost no resistance. |
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Quote:
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#6
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Without CONSULT-II NAEC0642S0302
1. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 1 second. 2. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds. 3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature. 4. Check that all items listed under the topic “PRE-CONDITIONING” (previously mentioned) are in good order. 5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds. 6. Start the engine and let it idle for at least 30 seconds. 7. Disconnect throttle position sensor harness connector (brown), then reconnect it within 5 seconds. 8. Wait 20 seconds. 9. Make sure that idle speed is within specifications. If not, the result will be incomplete. In this case, find the cause of the incident by referring to the NOTE below. 10. Rev up the engine two or three times. Make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within specifications. Is this the process? |
#7
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I disconnected the connector that goes to the valve to do the tests shown in this video....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYuRKzsqp-g I am getting the 12 volts from the battery in the middle column, but for resistance I am getting only 20 in the testings as the video has 30. Maybe different model? I noticed when looking at the plug it was burned/melted. Here's some pics. Could this be the issue? Last edited by wmj259; 06-27-2016 at 07:58 AM. |
#8
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Went to a junkyard this morning, and pulled myself a connector from another nissan, same exact wire colorings on both mine the donor. Will do that today and get the ECU programmed.
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#9
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I changed up the connector plug, so I started doing the pedal and throttle body relearning. Its not starting up, I think the computer needs programming. Dealer wants $1k+. Anyone ideas?
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#10
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I scanned the car, and am getting 3 codes
P1610-NATS Malfunction P1615-NATS Malfunction P1131-Swirl Control Solenoid Valve. ???? I just tried to perform a P1610 Nissan Lock Mode Escape. (turn on ignition for 5 secs and turn off, repeat 3 times total. I noticed whenever I have the Key to ON the security light is on solid. |
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NATS is the acronym for the security system. The security light remaining solid with the key "ON" and the codes you have suggest the ECM is seeing an unregistered key. The company that repaired the ECM may have programmed the software for the ECM, but you'll likely have to take the vehicle to a Nissan or Infiniti dealer, or a locksmith that has the equipment to initialize your key to the ECM.
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Is there some special equipment that does the first time initialization? Is there a way to even know if the ECU is even coded or blank?
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#13
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A Nissan CONSULT II or CONSULT III scan tool is used to initialize the keys. Some locksmiths may have the equipment to do it.
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#14
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Professional Diagnostic Laptop 12 Diagnostic Programs Already Installed | eBay
Do you think this scanner would work? I am looking for a more expanded manufacturer range scanner.... Last edited by wmj259; 07-26-2016 at 09:49 AM. |
#15
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I called a locksmith, he came in. I told him that I changed the ECM. He initialized the immobilizer and the car started up soooo smoothly with a purr. The code for a swirl solenoid is coming up, but I read that the code needs to be erased for it to turn the CEL off.
I also asked him if he could do the relearning of the TB and idle stuff. He did that. Also he scanned a Honda Element for me and was insisting on the same price as on the phone for $125. If anyone needs a recommendation in MD, I say call Victory Auto Lock. I am having a jerking issue now. When I put my foot on the gas a little bit it jerks. Could be because I didnt reset the CEL? I just reset the CEL. Will test drive again. Any thoughts ? Last edited by wmj259; 07-26-2016 at 12:04 PM. |
Tags |
computer, ecm, ecu, program |
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