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2000 Pathfinder Timing Belt Change - DIY? Forums > > 2000 Pathfinder Timing Belt Change - DIY? 2000 Pathfinder Timing Belt Change - DIY?
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Old 03-17-2012, 12:48 PM
xmas1 xmas1 is offline
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Smile 2000 Pathfinder Timing Belt Change - DIY?

I have a 2000 Pathfinder with a timing belt change past due, and the harmonic balancer (i.e. crank pulley) just fell apart (literally split in two). As a result the thing is not drive-able.

I can change the harmonic balancer, and I'm thinking that while I'm at it I may as well attempt a timing belt change. I reviewed the service manual, and it seems do-able. I'm not an auto mechanic, but I am a fairly sound mechanical engineer.

I just have a few questions about the service manual that I need to bounce of this forum...

1. On page EM-19 (and others), step 11 says to set the #1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke. First, which cylinder is #1? Second, how do I know if the stroke is compression or exhaust? Third, is the #1 cylinder at TDC of the compression stroke when the all three sprocket alignment marks are in position (as shown in the 2nd illustration from the top of page EM-21)?

2. On page EM-19, there is an illustration immediately to the left of step 11 that shows timing marks on the crank pulley. What exactly is this illustration trying to tell me? Since my crank pulley is no longer in one piece, what does this mean to me?

3. On page EM-21, step 4 says to point the arrow on the timing belt toward the front belt cover. Huh?? Does this mean toward driver side or passenger side?

4. On page EM-22, step 1 says to turn the tensioner CW and CCW at least 2 times. I'm not sure what this means. Do they mean to spin the tensioner all the way around twice in each direction? What would be the point of this?

Thanks in advance for any clarity that you can provide....
Regards,
Dan
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Old 03-18-2012, 07:54 AM
xmas1 xmas1 is offline
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After thinking a little more about it and researching online, I think I can answer a few of my own questions...

1. As long as the alignment marks are all lined up, everything should be good. The engine will be #1 TDC of compression stroke automatically. I don't need to know which cylinder is #1.

2. Apparently, for the 2000 Pathfinder there is no alignment notch on the oil pump housing for the crankshaft sprocket as described in the service manual. The markings on the crank pulley give the TDC position as the illustration shows, but this does me no good as my crank pulley fell apart. No worries. All I have to do is make my own marking with paint on the old belt to the crank sprocket before I remove it. Transposing the mark to the new belt will ensure that it is in the correct position when I install it.

3. I should be able to copy the direction arrow from the old belt.... assuming the markings are still on it...

4. ??? still not sure about this one.

Does anyone have any information on replacing the oil seals around the sprocket shafts??
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Old 03-21-2012, 05:17 PM
sobriquet sobriquet is offline
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Hey Dan,
First, best of luck with the belt replacement, let me know how it goes.

1. You kind of answered your own question about #1 at TDC, but if you have a hard time, you can thread a compression tester adaptor into the spark plug hole at #1 cylinder. keep your finder over the end of the hose/adaptor while you turn the engine by hand, periodically lifting your finger off the hose. Once you lift your finger and hear/feel air coming out of the compression tester adaptor, the cylinder is coming up on compression. Then you can put a thin screw driver done in the spark plug hole and feel the piston coming up, you'll feel the piston top out and start to come back down. Also, you may be able to buy a whistle that threads into your spark plug hole, once the whistle starts blowing the cylinder is coming up on the compression stroke, once the whistle stops blowing, the piston is approximately at TDC.
2. You said your crankshaft damper fell apart, but behind your front engine cover (timing cover) your crankshaft sprocket should still be intact, there you should see the marks and arrows the FSM is talking about. Also, if you line up #1 cylinder at TDC, everything will be aligned for you, so you can take note of how everything looks, and hopefully not have to change or move anything while replacing the belt.
3. I'm not sure what you meant about the arrow on the belt facing the front belt cover, but I'd have to venture a guess that maybe one edge of the belt should be facing the engine, and the other edge should be facing the front cover and radiator etc.
4. I took a look at the FSM and agree with you, I don't know the purpose of this step. If I were you I would just loosen the tensioner lock nut, turn the tensioner with an allen wrench until there is a fair amount of pressure against the belt, and lock the nut down, then be sure you rotate the engine at least 2 complete revolutions by hand, just to make sure all is right. Then check the tension of the belt. It's probably advised to replace the tensioner with the belt anyway.

Good luck
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Old 03-23-2012, 09:42 AM
xmas1 xmas1 is offline
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Thanks for the reply Sobriquet.

I have pretty much completed the job, and I think all is well. It wasn't nearly as difficult as I had thought it would have been initially, but it is still quite involved.

Regarding your comments;
1. You describe how to tell if the #1 piston is at TDC, but it could be on the compression stroke OR it could be on the exhaust stroke. I guess the only way to tell for sure would be to take the distributor apart and make sure the #1 cylinder is set to fire. On the exhaust stroke, the cylinder is merely pushing out exhaust gases... However, as you say, the markings on the sprockets make everything easy. I had no trouble with this.

2. agree

3. I did not understand the instruction in the FSM, but now that I've pulled everything apart it is clear. There is an arrow pointing to the edge of the belt, which must be pointing at the radiator when installed. Originally, I thought the arrow would be pointing along the belt direction, and I did not know if it should be installed pointing to driver or passenger.

4. This instruction is still a mystery... It is also included on the instructions that come with the timing belt kit. I tried to turn the tensioner 2 times, but the spring locks up hard after 1 turn!!! It is not possible to turn 2 times without damaging the spring.... As you said, I just snugged up the tensioner (a little tighter than spring tension) and locked it down. The spring does not appear to do anything after locking down the tensioner...

Thanks again for your reply. I would like to recommend any half decent DIY'er to save the money and do this job yourself...
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Old 09-23-2012, 05:56 AM
89gq 89gq is offline
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Also no. 1 is on TDC compression stroke when rotor in dizzy is pointing to where no. 1 plug lead goes in.
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