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  #1  
Old 02-10-2012, 03:24 PM
StaticFilter StaticFilter is offline
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Default 2005 Pathfinder Check Engine Code P0340 *NOW P0011*

My wife's Pathfinder just started dying while driving and threw a CEL P0340 code which is Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit. I read one other thread on this and it said a replacement of the sensor fixed the issue just fine. Is there any guarantee that if i buy a new sensor it will fix the issue? I'm strapped for cash

Last edited by StaticFilter; 02-15-2012 at 08:24 PM.
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Old 02-10-2012, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StaticFilter View Post
My wife's Pathfinder just started dying while driving and threw a CEL P0340 code which is Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit. I read one other thread on this and it said a replacement of the sensor fixed the issue just fine. Is there any guarantee that if i buy a new sensor it will fix the issue? I'm strapped for cash
No guarantee but that is definately where I would start.
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Old 02-11-2012, 09:27 AM
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Do I have to take off the intake and do I NEED a new gasket?
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Old 02-11-2012, 05:07 PM
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Took off the intake and changed the damn camshaft position sensor, cleared the codes and drove it awhile, seemed fine. Wife just called and said the Service Engine Soon light just came on. DAMNIT. So What NOW? Now that I wasted $60 and several hours

Last edited by StaticFilter; 02-11-2012 at 05:10 PM.
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Old 02-15-2012, 08:23 PM
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Okay so it's a NEW code. P0011 Cam Position Actuator A Bank Timing Over Advance

WTF? I cleared the code, we'll see if it comes back.

Anyone have Ideas? She hasn't had any issues with it dying since i changed the cam sensor, just the SES Light and MAYBE rough idle (I don't drive it so i'm going off of what my wife says...)
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Old 07-16-2012, 06:31 AM
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Staticfilter,
Did you ever figure out what was wrong? I am having the same thing happening with my '03. Replaced cam sensor because of P0340, now throwing P0011.
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Old 07-16-2012, 06:51 PM
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Nope haven';t fixed it, still driving around with the CEL P0011 code. SUPPOSEDLY doing an engine oil FLUSH (not just an oil change) will clear the code according to the dealership, but I have yet to mess with it further. Anyone that knows a surefire way to get rid of the P0011 would be amazing...
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Old 07-16-2012, 08:12 PM
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Sometimes the problem is the Intake valve timing control solenoid valve. Unfortunately there is nothing for sure, but you could try swapping the Intake valve timing control solenoid valve from one bank to the other to see if the code follows the valve. To swap the valve you have to remove both valves and swap just the solenoid part. Once you have the valves out you should clean the valves, sometimes cleaning the valves take care of the problem.

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Old 07-24-2012, 05:10 PM
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Had the dealership do a FLUSH today and clear the code, it came back awhile later...

Quote:
Originally Posted by NissanTech View Post
Sometimes the problem is the Intake valve timing control solenoid valve. Unfortunately there is nothing for sure, but you could try swapping the Intake valve timing control solenoid valve from one bank to the other to see if the code follows the valve. To swap the valve you have to remove both valves and swap just the solenoid part. Once you have the valves out you should clean the valves, sometimes cleaning the valves take care of the problem.
I'm no mechanic, how big of ordeal is this stuff you mentioned? I changed the camshaft position sensor on my own...
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Old 05-04-2018, 08:19 PM
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Default Old Post, Same Issue

I've done a lot of research after replacing both cam position sensors on my 2008 Pathfinder trying to determine whether any type of "relearn" is needed after replacing the sensors. I haven't had much luck confirming whether this is required; can you just replace both camshaft position sensors and press on without any additional issues? Could the lack of the relearn procedure caused the P0011 code experienced by StaticFilter? I guess I'll find out soon enough. I have both sensors removed. Waiting for my replacements. I'll probably regret going "cheap", but I bought both sensors off Amazon for $20 for the pair. I'm sure I'll be doing the job again shortly! If anyone knows if a relearn procedure is required, please chime in!!!
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  #11  
Old 05-06-2018, 09:26 PM
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There is no relearn procedure for replacement of cam or crank position sensors.
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Old 05-11-2018, 11:01 PM
Howard Bell Howard Bell is offline
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They technically have to relearn every time the car starts back up............lol. Within about 10-50 revolutions at cranking.
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Old 05-12-2018, 09:59 AM
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Agreed Howard. I noticed when the two sensors were first replaced, the engine cranked longer than normal before starting. Seems to be back to normal now.

On a separate note, I did learn I'm not very fond of the type of electrical connectors used on these sensors. I had difficulty securing the connector on the driver side sensor. After a test run my service engine light, VDC light and slip light came back on. This time the OBDII faulted the drivers side sensor. Crawled under the hood and found the electrical connector was completely off. Obviously I thought I had it secured, but without engaging the connector 100%, the spring-loaded function of the connector must have popped it back off. Bad design! At least with a normal connector you can count on some friction between the pin and the socket to keep a connector together. Hopefully it stays connected; I don't even want to think about trying to splice -in a new connector at that location!!
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Old 05-15-2018, 07:31 AM
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I disconnect and reconnect the harness connector to the sensor after it's removed and before I install it. Makes it easier and also prevent me from dropping the sensor behind the engine somewhere.
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Old 05-16-2018, 02:06 PM
Howard Bell Howard Bell is offline
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Lack of patience. In a world where modern connectors have up to 50 pins and any one of them not touching can bring a car down you must take the time to make sure the connector is properly engaged and fastened. Most 'weatherproof' connections now require you to slip inside a silicone water jacket collar of some type, you must take the time to ensure the collar slipped over what it is supposed to or all jammed up it will easily re-disconnect the plug. Any detent there must positively work and lightly pull on the connection when done to check it. That hurts nothing if the connection still has its' full integrity and well locked in place.

Good idea if the connector by itself or sensor can fall down to not be able to get at easily.
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