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99.5 Pathfinder and dreaded P0301 misfire code Forums > > 99.5 Pathfinder and dreaded P0301 misfire code 99.5 Pathfinder and dreaded P0301 misfire code
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  #1  
Old 01-09-2012, 11:15 AM
synter synter is offline
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Default 99.5 Pathfinder and dreaded P0301 misfire code

First off, kudos to this great site. Having not worked on a car in 10 years, I was rusty and scared. But you guys gave me the info and knowledge to give it a shot. I have had an awful running Pathfinder for a year, and never dealt with it. It got so bad I drove straight to the dealer and asked for a diagnosis. They gave me P0325 knock sensor and P0300 misfire code. Quoted me $1099 (!!!) for the knock sensor replacement, and $420 for the tuneup. That's right, $1500.00.

I did the knock sensor relocation, worked great. Bought a code reader, P0325 code is now gone. I bought nissan wires, plugs, rotor, cap, and did that myself too. Boom, P0300 code gone and car runs much better.

However, there is the same slight problem that started all this a year ago:

1. On a cold-start, first drive of the morning, car runs 100% fine.
2. On any 2nd and 3rd start, such as coming out of a store for example, car runs rough for a short while, and then "kicks in" and is okay more or less.
3. After the 2nd warm start, engine is just not 100% smooth.

I put the code scanner on, and get a P0301PD (pending?). Cylinder 1 misfire. No engine light comes on though! But the pd version of the code does get triggered.

Now, after reading and reading and reading, It seems the next course of action is:

1. cylinder 1 coil pack
2. fuel injector 1

not knowing any symptoms first hand of a coil pack thing going bad, I'm leaning towards the fuel injector 1.

My ultimate question is this: Due to the cold/warm start issue, can I rule out the coil pack? I'm guessing with most things electronic, the coil is either good or bad, not good at first, then bad the rest of the time.

I read somewhere about a fuel injector heating up and going bad.

Any thoughts on these 2 possibilities?
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  #2  
Old 01-09-2012, 02:15 PM
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NissanTech NissanTech is offline
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Before replacing the injector or coil (your 99 doesn't have individual coils, so the coil problems doesn't apply to your vehicle), you should clean the injector first.

There is a bulletin for the P0300-P0306 codes: Knowledgebase - 1999 Pathfinder - Nissanhelp.com Forums
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  #3  
Old 01-09-2012, 02:21 PM
synter synter is offline
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I have a 99.5, not a 99. Does that matter? Do I have individual coils in a 1999.5? I thought I did, maybe not. I'll give that bulletin a read now. Thanks.
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  #4  
Old 01-09-2012, 02:32 PM
synter synter is offline
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That sounds like an option. Made an appointment at my dealer tomorrow to do that cleaning. $140.00. I'll let you know if that does it. It's been a long ride, and maybe, this last $140.00 will buy me another year or two. Thanks.
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  #5  
Old 01-10-2012, 03:07 PM
synter synter is offline
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Well, that was a waste of money. Per the Service Bulletin mentioned above, I had the dealer perform that exact service. Nothing. Same as always. I bought some MAF sensor cleaner and sprayed that good, although it looked brand new to be honest.

So now I'm on to what? Again, a cold start, I get a perfect running car. Every other start after that, it's like a joke. P0301 code again, same as before.

Can I rule out the Injector in 1 after this cleaning?

Is my next step a coil thing? I have the 1999.5, so I'm assuming I have a coil that can be replaced.

Any fresh tips on what to do?

Cold start great, warm start awful. This is what I'm having a hard time dealing with. If it was a fuel filter, I'd have to assume it would be bad always. Same with some type of coil.

There has to be a logical explanation on why whatever is going wrong.

Has anyone heard of a symptom of SOMETHING related to a cylinder, being fine on cold, bad on warm? Maybe it is bank 1 injector, and the fancy cleaning just didn't fix it.

HELP!!!
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  #6  
Old 01-10-2012, 08:24 PM
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bennyb53 bennyb53 is offline
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It is possible the injector on cylinder 1 is NG. Try this: while engine at idle pull the cylinder 1 plug wire. If engine rpm do not change, then injector is NG and must be replaced.
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Old 01-11-2012, 08:44 AM
synter synter is offline
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pull the spark plug wire? Really? Wouldn't I pull some kind of Injector wire?

I'll try the plug wire 1. I just called my dealer, and they want $200 for the injector and o-rings, and $400 to replace it, assuming it's one that can be snuck out without taking the manifold off...if not, $800! In labor to replace a fuel injector. So $1,000. It's making me sick. I think I'm going to just going to get rid of it.
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  #8  
Old 01-11-2012, 02:26 PM
synter synter is offline
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Well, I started it, ran fine, as always, let it sit a few hours, and sure enough, rough running. So I parked it, and pulled #1 spark plug off, and it made no difference. Ran the same. I stuck a long screwdriver right on what I think is the first fuel injector (it's the closest one to the front of the car out in the open, right near the spark plug hole #1) and I hear constant ticking. So, unless I'm hearing something wrong, it seems like the Injector is firing. Is it still possible the injector is bad?
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  #9  
Old 01-11-2012, 07:40 PM
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bennyb53 bennyb53 is offline
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:)......I don't mean for you to remove the spark plug, just the plug wire off the spark plug on cyl. 1 while engine at idle at normal operating temperature. After you remove the plug wire the engine should stumble at times stall and this is normal. If engine speed remain the same before you remove the plug wire and after, then injector is faulty. You installed new plug wires so we rule this out as the cause.
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  #10  
Old 01-11-2012, 08:31 PM
synter synter is offline
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No worries, I didn't take the whole plug out, just pulled the wire off. It ran the same. I found a local Nissan master tech who does side work and were going to replace the 1st injector and see what happens.

How can I check which injector to buy? My dealer said its either got a blue dot or black dot. The ones that are in now I can see have pink plastic on them. Are those likely factory oem?

I'd like to buy the injector and o rings myself, but don't know how to get the exact match

Can I just unclog the harness and pull it out?
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  #11  
Old 01-12-2012, 11:33 AM
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If you didn't buy the car new its hard to tell if it still OE. I have yet to replace mine so I haven't look into this subject. Go to rockauto.com, and see what brand name comes up. Bosch is probably one of them and might be a good choice, autopartswarehouse.com, and nissanpartszone.com. For critical parts like these I favor genuine nissan parts.

I've found out that the OEM is stamp on the parts, such as NTK for O2 sensors, Seimens for NATS IMU transceiver, etc., etc. But the replacement NATS transceiver while a genuine nissan parts did not have the manufacturer's name. Was this made by Seimens? may be or may not.
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  #12  
Old 01-12-2012, 12:01 PM
synter synter is offline
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Have to agree, I'd like to go OEM. I bought the car with 37K on it or so. I'm going to guess they are original.

Can anyone confirm original injectors have pink on them?
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  #13  
Old 06-04-2013, 03:54 AM
einem0rd einem0rd is offline
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Unhappy soooo frustrated

im having the same issue as "synter" ive changed the rotter button the distributor cap ,the plugs " that back plug for six is painfully hard even with an extension" ,fuel filter cleaned the mass airflow sensor , cleaned the fuel injectors replaced and fixed the main mass airflow assembly because it had a huge crack down the entire piece , and yet still it only shows a soft code of being in gate ( A ) it starts fine if its cold it gets worse as it warms up after a while it sputters and dies and has to be re started ,and the rpms jump like crazy for no apparent reason with or without moving the car or sitting still in park or N its just so frustrating doing one thing after the other and after a few hundred bucks it still will not run like it should , im so frustrated i just wanna tear my face off and eat it , i really wanna fix this car and get it working my wife purchased it and when she got it ran perfect not a care in the world a month after that all of this nonsense started and here i am 4 months later still trying to figure it out and the darn soft code helps me none ....also i noticed the lights kinda dim a little when the rpms jump like crazy from 1-3 and back in a pattern i cant rightly explain so i got an all new battery and nothing dont seem to be the alternator at all so if anyone has any ideas let me know ide be happy to try them : thanks : depressed nissan owner .
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  #14  
Old 06-04-2013, 02:16 PM
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bennyb53 bennyb53 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by einem0rd View Post
it starts fine if its cold it gets worse as it warms up after a while it sputters and dies and has to be re started ,and the rpms jump like crazy for no apparent reason with or without moving the car or sitting still in park or N : thanks : depressed nissan owner .
Yeah, understand your frustration. Is check engine light on?
1. my #1 suspect is the IACV solenoid. you try remove it and clean but cleaning will not fix a failed component. at cold start, the valve is pre-set and as engine warm up and engine load increases so ECM send signal for more air and the step motor is not responding and engine stalls.
2. suspect #2 is the maf sensor. IDK what incident that crack the maf tube assy but its quite sturdy. you said you clean it but you should also test it.
All the info. you need are found in Engine Control manual in Knowledgebase section. As a registered user you have a limited download per day. Wlhen you suscribe, you may even request from Admin if a certain manual is not available. Hope this helps.
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