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2006 Pathfinder Vibration when decelerating Forums > > 2006 Pathfinder Vibration when decelerating 2006 Pathfinder Vibration when decelerating
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  #1  
Old 02-21-2010, 12:54 PM
bagreene
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Default 2006 Pathfinder Vibration when decelerating

I have a 2006 Nissan Pathfinder which has a vibration when you go above 40+ mph and then decelerate (take you foot off the gas). Initial feedback from a mechanic was that is could be the rear differentail bearing which he said would be about $2,500 to replace. The Pathfinder has 65K miles on it so it is just out of warranty. I plan to take this to the dealership on Monday but was looking for any other insights into what could be causing the problem. The mechanic stated that the rear tansfer case did not sound good. This problem only occurs when you take you foot off the gas.

Last edited by NissanTech; 02-21-2010 at 08:02 PM.
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  #2  
Old 02-21-2010, 08:03 PM
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NissanTech NissanTech is offline
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It could be the rear diff bearing, but $2500 is too expensive to replaced the bearing.
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  #3  
Old 02-22-2010, 04:14 PM
bagreene
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It ended up being the drive shaft had thrown a weight. It cost $400 to replace.
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  #4  
Old 03-01-2010, 10:34 AM
rollingclone
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I would bet drive shaft, mine have gone 3 times since I have owned it. Nissan will tell you impossible to just replace u-joints because the aluminum shafts always end up warped due to installation. Never will I buy a Nissan again.
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  #5  
Old 03-01-2010, 10:39 AM
rollingclone
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2005 Pathfinder.
I had to have new rotors on the front.
I have the cup holder in the rear fall apart.
That little compartment next to the shifter has broken.
I have had the plastic molding on the rear hatch completely broken away.
I had that rattle that Nissan could not locate (it is a radio harness Clip)
new battery, new collision sensor, new O2 sensor, Oh yeah, a new fuel level sender put in, under warranty.
And they recently did something to the tire inflation sensor/system. I am worried that I am hearing that whine from the timing belt tensioner going in the V6.
Tranny is now slipping, winding up and down
@80K and I am on here today to figure out how to replace the struts, as the truck is now bouncing all over the road
I will never buy Nissan again.
Nissan told me to screw after they replaced my rear driveshaft, because I was at 70K and the warranty ran out at 65K
So, if I was you and you are under 65K, go out to the truck and bang the crap out of the drive shaft, because eventually they will fail, also, try to get the timing belt tensioner fixed before the warranty runs out, oh and now I am getting ready for the tranny failure I am reading about, something about the coolant is leaking into the tranny and killing it?
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  #6  
Old 10-02-2012, 02:23 PM
Mojo2005 Mojo2005 is offline
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I have the same issue as the original poster (rear vibration like running down a rumble strip, but at all speeds). Nissan Dealer said to replace entire rear end for $2k.

Is this reasonable? How can I see if the drive shaft has thrown its weights?
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  #7  
Old 10-02-2012, 05:32 PM
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dryart dryart is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mojo2005 View Post
I have the same issue as the original poster (rear vibration like running down a rumble strip, but at all speeds). Nissan Dealer said to replace entire rear end for $2k.

Is this reasonable? How can I see if the drive shaft has thrown its weights?
could be a lot of other things..............
are they going to guarantee their diagnosis of replacement of the entire rear end for $2K?
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  #8  
Old 10-02-2012, 07:22 PM
Mojo2005 Mojo2005 is offline
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I don't think I want to pay the $2k to find out. When they only had the car for an hour and then said that the rear mechanism needs to be replaced because it would cost more in labor to find the offending part that was the issue, it left me a bit sour.

Going to get a second opinion after reading several similar forum posts as this. I thought there might be some chance of a visual inspection myself if someone could give a tip.
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  #9  
Old 10-02-2012, 08:26 PM
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dryart dryart is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mojo2005 View Post
I don't think I want to pay the $2k to find out. When they only had the car for an hour and then said that the rear mechanism needs to be replaced because it would cost more in labor to find the offending part that was the issue, it left me a bit sour.

Going to get a second opinion after reading several similar forum posts as this. I thought there might be some chance of a visual inspection myself if someone could give a tip.
that's what i mean about them guaranteeing their diagnosis
did they make a commitment that your $2K spent for replacement of the entire rear end would solve the problem, or are they just guessing with your wallet?
i'd be a bit sour too.......
too bad dealerships do not seem to have the capability to diagnose anything any more - a lost skill
one thing i can assure you: it's very rare for a final drive assy to need repair or replacement
more likely are worn u-joints, out of balance driveshaft, or unfortunately, transmission issues from coolant contamination of the ATF
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  #10  
Old 09-16-2013, 11:32 AM
bamabutch90 bamabutch90 is offline
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I have a 2005 Pathfinder. I recently (last week) had to replace the camshaft position sensor. After which I started getting a horrible vibration during deceleration from after slowing down from anything over 40mph. During acceleration it is perfect. I had the codes read and got some catalyst codes and the technician said I probably had a leaking vaccum line... Any ideas would be appreciated. Also was wondering how to check the driveline to see if it is correctly balanced. Thank you anyone for any help.
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  #11  
Old 09-18-2013, 09:47 AM
anchorrode865 anchorrode865 is offline
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Default u-joints

The u-joints are problematic on the pathfinders. I would start with those. I replaced all of mine (06 pathfinder LE). You should be able to climb under the pathfinder and try to push and pull on the drive shaft. If there is play, you probably have a bad u-joint. Having play doesnt always show that the u-joint is bad but is just one way to test. I have the issue where I was getting an odd vibration over 40 mph. I removed the u joint and replaced with OEM u-joints. This fixed the issue and the cost was minimal since I did the work myself. Just a thought!
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  #12  
Old 09-23-2013, 01:03 PM
bamabutch90 bamabutch90 is offline
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Replaced the u-joints and still odd vibration. I had a MIL on and the codes were p0420 and P0430 (catalytic converters)... The vibration is almost like a jake brake and I am wondering if the catalytic converters have both went out at the same time. I have doubts about this considering this problem started right after I changed the the cam shaft position sensor. I think I might have damaged the MAF or have a vacuum leak or even a wiring issue. Any suggestions on where to start. I thought I would start at the top of the engine and work my way to the bottom (CATS). Lastly is there anyway to check the cats to see if they are working properly before taking them off the vehicle. Thank you.
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  #13  
Old 07-04-2016, 07:32 AM
Cubswin Cubswin is offline
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Bama:
just saw your post as it relates to a problem I just started to notice with my 2006 Pathfinder.
Vibration at 40 mph.
As you have said, I have replaced front ujoints but vibration still exists.
Some posts indicate main drive shaft out of balance or other stuff.

I have scheduled a visit to dealer this week.

Do you any updates?
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  #14  
Old 07-05-2016, 04:49 AM
anchorrode865 anchorrode865 is offline
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Default UJoints

I replaced the front and back ujoints. after replacing, the vibration and the "clicking" noise stopped. I replaced the ujoints 2 or 3 years ago(maybe longer). The replacement of the ujoints definitely fixed my problem. I will say that a lot of people were posting to use after market ujoints but I decided to go with the OEM. I think the OEM ujoints work perfectly. I dont see a need to switch to after market unless you feel the need to a mega duty ujoint with the capability to gease. The OEM ujoints are sealed. A lot of the mega duty ujoints have a grease fitting.

Thanks,

Jay
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  #15  
Old 07-06-2016, 02:53 PM
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The Nissan U-joints are made by Spicer, which you can get on the aftermarket for a cheaper price and the option of grease fittings or without. I got Spicer joints from Rockauto on my 2006 Pathy. Moog is a really good alternative.
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