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01 Pathfinder Engine runs rough & shakes Forums > > 01 Pathfinder Engine runs rough & shakes 01 Pathfinder Engine runs rough & shakes
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  #1  
Old 01-19-2009, 09:45 PM
designbuildguy
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Cool 01 Pathfinder Engine runs rough & shakes

I have a 2001 V6 Pathfinder that started running really rough. I was driving down the highway and the car started shaking – not violently, but very noticeable – and the service engine soon light came on. I had driven some errands earlier in the day and no problems. I pulled off and parked in a parking lot and waited for several minutes. Started it up again and same running rough. Start up and shut down several times and the same thing. I called the dealership just down the street and started it up to take it down the street and it started up just fine. That was 2 weeks ago, the engine light stayed on the last 2 weeks but no issues. Yesterday when I started the engine it ran rough again. I let it run for a few minutes thinking it was cold, no help. Once it warmed up and restarted same roughness. Same if in gear, park or neutral. Let it sit for 10 minutes and started again, no help. Started 3 or 4 more times one after another, on the last time it ran just fine. Drove it home yesterday and then when I got in today it started rough, tried the warm and wait theory and no help. Had to drive it about 2 miles to borrow a friends truck. At low speeds it was jerky at higher speeds ran pretty good but service engine soon light started flashing. When I got to my fiends place I tried restarting my Pathfinder one last time and it started just fine. Totally lost – sometimes warm it works fine, others not. Side note, 6 months ago it did something similar but not as bad and changed the spark plugs and it fixed it until now. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Bill
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  #2  
Old 01-20-2009, 04:21 AM
nissan master tech's Avatar
nissan master tech nissan master tech is offline
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what codes do you have?
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  #3  
Old 01-20-2009, 04:51 PM
IndyBob
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Funny problem. I just went through all of this. It took a heck of a lot of trial and error at the shop, but the final determination was that one of the wires going from the distributor to the coil for the 5th cylinder had an area inside the wire sheathing that was breaking. When the vibration had the wires (and stars) in line, then things ran perfect. When the wire was anything but straight, the rough running came. Once that wiring harness was replaced, all was well. The real test was to mangle the wires while the engine was running to see which one made the problem better or worse.

I suppose another option is that a coil is going bad. That will set you back about $150 installed.

Good luck.

Bob
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  #4  
Old 01-21-2009, 05:29 PM
designbuildguy
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Thanks all!
Master Tech, I'll see if AutoZone will help out with the codes tomorrow.
Bob - sounds like you ran into the same thing, i'll try the crumple theory too and see if that helps - thanks!
Come back soon to see codes and final fix for others to learn from.
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  #5  
Old 01-23-2009, 12:14 AM
DJMobius
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Congratulations! You have just experienced the dreaded 2001 Nissan Pathfinder Ignition coil problem. I got $20 says your Cylinder 1 ignition coil went bad and your will get the Dreaded P1320 code and the P0301 code when you run an OBD II sensor test. If you are mechanically inclined this might not be as bad as you think, but you do have to do something quick as to not damage all your coils. If you buy the part and do it yourself it could save alot of money. This is the exact same thing that happened to my Pathy this last week and I got handled this morning actually. So if your know how to run a multimeter it could save you hundreds becuase I'll bet only 1 of your coils is bad.
Please post again if you need more help. And dont let Nissan take you for $800 to "fix" this.
Dj Mobius
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  #6  
Old 03-19-2009, 05:59 AM
daninGA
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Default hi DJMobius

I have the same problem with my Pathfinder, Six months ago i was told i need to change a ignition coil, I paid $200 and got it fixed, this week the engine lights were back and and when driving i started to feel a lot vibration, when I took it back to the same repair shop, i was told I need to change all the 5 ignition coils which would cost $600. they were not sure which coil was bad, so i was told i need to change em all.

how did you fix ignition coil probem, did you buy the parts online, is there a step by step instruction that I could use.

I was laid off from my job last week , so tryin not to spend too much on this.

Any information would be appreciated.
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  #7  
Old 03-20-2009, 12:07 AM
DJMobius
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Default Ignition Coils

Yes i bought my Coils online from a parts shop somewhere in new jersey. Make sure you get the Hitachi as they are the Nissan Originals. When they showed up they had the Nissan Logo and Part numbers scratched off. Just look around online because the prices fluctuate for these parts. I went through Partsgeek.com but you might find a better deal.

Ok you need to pull all of your Coils out and run an ohmmeter test on them. Set your ohmmeter for 20 and touch the internal prongs and write down the readings for each set of prongs (should be 3 combinations). Compare the numbers and if the coil is bad you'll see the differences. I managed to get away with only buying 3 coils (including the #1). Find out from your shop which one they replaced because the #1 is COMPLETELY different and usually the cause. Also if they didnt do it change your plugs and put in some better plugs as the factory standard are NGK Copper. I was amazed that mine lasted 130K miles but they were baaaaad.

Hopefully I can find my sheet that had all the ohm readings so i can post whats good and whats bad but unfortunately that car is in the Auto Body Shop right now cause I dont know how to use ALL my mirrors when backing up. 8o)

DJ Mobius
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  #8  
Old 03-30-2009, 07:14 AM
msanch_56
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Hi there, I have the same problem and this has been going on for almost a year. I first removed and replaced an oxygen sensor when the ODB II indicated replacement and that's how I started this rough engine and dash board lights coming on and off. I removed and checked the left bank (facing the engine) ignition coils which is #1, #3, and #5. Coil #1 has different mark from #3 and #5. The terminals were identified 1B, G and + as 1, 2, and 3 respectively from the service manual. I checked the continuity on terminals 2 and 3 and it's not shorted. With an analog tester, I was able to read a resistance between G and + as 80Kohms (x1Kohm dial setting, same reading on x1ohm setting) on all three coils. When I reversed the polarity of the test leads checking for resistance, it gave me infinity (meaning circuit is open). I am not quite sure why is giving me this reading. I used a digital multimeter and I can't find continuity between 2 and 3 terminals, even if the test leads are reversed. All three coils have the same reading using the analog tester with black lead to G and red lead to +. I will be testing the right bank coils and see what's the reading but curious as why there is no resistance when the leads are reversed. Is this because the coil is a power transistor? Can anyone explain this? As of now, the rough engine is still going on. I may replace the spark plugs after I completed checking the right bank coils......anyone has any feedback is appreciated very much. BTW, coils run around $80 or more from the above website, could be more if bought directly from Nissan dealer!!!!

Last edited by msanch_56; 03-30-2009 at 07:20 AM. Reason: spelling
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  #9  
Old 04-05-2009, 05:53 AM
msanch_56
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Hello anyone here,
I have been trying to remove/check the ignition coils #2, #, and #6 located opposite. They are located in quite a difficult location that is covered by the air intake manifold. Has anyone tried replacing the spark plugs on these locations? What do you need to remove? There is a manifold on top of the engine which I am not sure if I need to remove. If it's only the plastic air manifold, it may not be sufficient for access to ignition coils/spark plugs. Does anyone has some hint what to remove first? Appreciate anyone's input here. Thanks much.
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  #10  
Old 03-10-2016, 03:20 PM
Dspafford Dspafford is offline
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I see all of these posts are old but am hoping there are still people watching this thread. I recently changed all 6 coils with Hitachi coils. While I was at it I did the valve cover gaskets, plugs, intake gaskets, vacuum hoses, ect. Now a month later I'm getting a CEL (spool valve) and just today it started to run rough. (Almost like a misfire). Â lot of the info on this thread I will be working on this weekend. Just wondering if there are any follow ups on any of this information. It's a long shot since it's like 7 years later. But I love this vehicle and really want to fix it.
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  #11  
Old 04-17-2016, 06:25 PM
Doober Doober is offline
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I have a 04 patfinder with a similar issue and replaced the cam shaft sensor and that fixed it. By shaking though it only seemed to do it at a specific rpm when under load never noticed it doing it cold as I live on a mountain and it would specifically do it on way back up mountain. I could turn off over drive and that would Rev up rmps and correct issue. However now I'm experiencing another issue as to where when engine warms up I lose crazy amounts of power but I can simply turn it off wait ten seconds and start up and it runs fine but only for about a minute but if I do this and turn off overdrive it takes about 30 mins before I lose power again. I believe this is related to bad o2 sensors and or mass air flow sensor maybe even bad coils however that gets more expensive respectively . Also I've noticed it idles poorly when it's acting up idling very low. Has anyone experienced anything similar?
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  #12  
Old 04-21-2018, 09:26 AM
Loomy717 Loomy717 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dspafford View Post
I see all of these posts are old but am hoping there are still people watching this thread. I recently changed all 6 coils with Hitachi coils. While I was at it I did the valve cover gaskets, plugs, intake gaskets, vacuum hoses, ect. Now a month later I'm getting a CEL (spool valve) and just today it started to run rough. (Almost like a misfire). Â lot of the info on this thread I will be working on this weekend. Just wondering if there are any follow ups on any of this information. It's a long shot since it's like 7 years later. But I love this vehicle and really want to fix it.
I have a 2001 pathfinder I've got a ses light running code p1320, and also running a misfire code in #3 I've changed 2 plugs so far and going to replace the rest but im thinking I may have change the ignition coil too for #3...but now when im stopped and in gear I get a rough idle and feels like the rig runs a heavy pulse like someone has base going, but when in park it isn't there

I know this is a year later but if anyone can provide some help I'd appreciate it!!
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  #13  
Old 04-21-2018, 12:25 PM
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smj999smj smj999smj is offline
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Replace the #3 ignition coil along with the rest of the spark plugs.
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  #14  
Old 04-21-2018, 01:53 PM
Dspafford Dspafford is offline
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What I did find is that I had an ignition cool issue, but I also had an issue with one of the fuel injectors. I have since gotten rid of the truck.
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  #15  
Old 06-25-2019, 03:26 PM
RJ007 RJ007 is offline
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I owe DJMobius $20. This happened to my O1 Pathfinder at 254,000 miles. Easy fix thanks to DJMobius
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