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2009 Murano brake pads replacement? Forums > > 2009 Murano brake pads replacement? 2009 Murano brake pads replacement?
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Old 05-29-2011, 01:17 PM
captfbgnet captfbgnet is offline
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Default 2009 Murano brake pads replacement?

After driving for 50 yrs, I have had the experience of changing the ft pads about twice before having to change the rear pads. At yesterdays 30k major service at Nissan dealership (car purchased new), I was told by the Service -Customer service rep that my BACK pads had 4mm left and the front had 7. They recommended that I change the rear as I live some distance from a dealership. I discussed my experience with front vs rear pad replacement. The rep said that he 'checked with two dealership techs and verified thru parts dept. that factory front pads come with 10mm and rear pads come with 7mm.' I didn't have the opportunity to verify this myself. The 'wear ratio' appears to support this. Thus it appears (and the service rep agreed) that at every 30-60-90k major service the customer can expect a probable brake job (front & rear @ the 60k service) in addition to the $$$ spent for the service itself. Can this be right? Is there in fact a thickness difference between front and rear brake pads? 30K seems far too often from my driving experience (little city driving). Anyone else have any brake pad experience. I did a 'search' on this forum and found a couple of somewhat similar issues involving earlier models. Any help in understanding would be appreciated.

Last edited by captfbgnet; 06-07-2011 at 05:52 AM. Reason: spelling
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  #2  
Old 05-29-2011, 01:32 PM
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mpe235 mpe235 is offline
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If the pads come new at 7mm and you have 4mm left then you still have more than half of the pad left. Typically we see brakes wear out on most of the new cars at around 30,000 miles except for the Versa and Sentra which tend to be closer to 60,000
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  #3  
Old 05-30-2011, 05:39 AM
captfbgnet captfbgnet is offline
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As the result of my posting and a copy sent to the dealer, the service mgr (Kevin) called me this morning (Memorial Day) and stated that he had checked the factory pads and found the fronts @ 10mm and the the rears 'just under 8.' Nissan recommends NOT allowing the pads to get below 2-3mm as this can endanger the rotors and the pads themselves have less friction. Unfortunately, he said my previous stated scenario is fairly common in some models and the "2 fts for 1 rear" pads replacements days are probably no longer in affect considering driving habits, etc. Also, my analysis on $$$ spent on the 30-60-90k services is probably true. The service mgr could not have been nicer. I guess I'll continue to drive the 150 mile round trip to have my major services done at that dealership. Hope this information helps others.
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Old 07-22-2011, 05:15 PM
John Crowell
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I have an 04 Murano with 145,000 miles on it. Sure enough the rears wear out first. I think this is partially because this is the firs car i have owned which apportions the correct stopping power to the rear. That is why it stops so well for a fairly heavy car.

I got about 60 k out of the first brakes. By the way, don't have them turn the rotors. Just replace them. They warped after in had them turned. You will hear a light squeaking sound from the warning mechanism in the pads before they need replacing.
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Old 07-23-2011, 05:17 AM
captfbgnet captfbgnet is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Crowell View Post
I have an 04 Murano with 145,000 miles on it. Sure enough the rears wear out first. I think this is partially because this is the firs car i have owned which apportions the correct stopping power to the rear. That is why it stops so well for a fairly heavy car.

I got about 60 k out of the first brakes. By the way, don't have them turn the rotors. Just replace them. They warped after in had them turned. You will hear a light squeaking sound from the warning mechanism in the pads before they need replacing.
John, did you get 60K on the FT pad, rear pads or ? Do you remember whether the brake pad replacements more or less coincided with a major 15K vehicle inspection (45k, 60k, etc)? And yes, I like you did NOT have my rotors turned. As long as they are not scarred or damaged somehow they should be good to go and save you $$. Heard anything good re: ceramic brake pads--supposedly better & longer life?
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Old 08-06-2011, 09:13 AM
rutia
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While on good dry summer roads consider turning off VDC. I'm new to Murano, but it did make a difference on my '03 G35.

Also, changing brake pads on Nissans is a breeze, especially if you're changing all the springs / shims every time you change the pads. Torque wrench with sockets, a coat hanger (to support brake cylinder while off the disk), and a few pieces of wood (to sink the cylinder without special tools) is all it takes! If you're a DIY type of character, after one change you should be down to 30 - 45 minutes per wheel. :)
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Old 12-29-2011, 02:00 PM
slyhenry slyhenry is offline
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Default Had to repl rear brake pads early

My 2009 murano just had to have the rear pads replaced at 34000 miles. They had 2 mm left on them. The front brakes are good at 8. I've had Toyota's and Honda's usually with 50-60k or more miles before any brakes needed replacement. Sounds like Nissan is into the planned obselence thing. Not a good reason to buy another Nissan. Then they tried to "sell" me the 30000 mile service for $310 in addition to the brakes.
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Old 12-30-2011, 05:08 AM
captfbgnet captfbgnet is offline
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I researched ceramic brake pads (google). I'm going to these pads when I have to have pads replaced again. You can buy them cheaper than what the dealer will charge you, last longer and are 'thicker' than the originals. Worth looking into...
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:00 PM
garrym garrym is offline
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I tried to replace my rear brake pads but it was unable to loosen the top bolt on the caliper. I had to give up. Anyone experienced this? any ideas how to loosen it?
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garrym View Post
I tried to replace my rear brake pads but it was unable to loosen the top bolt on the caliper. I had to give up. Anyone experienced this? any ideas how to loosen it?
I usually put a wrench on the bolt and then hit the wrench with a hammer or mallet.
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:41 PM
garrym garrym is offline
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I tried that. I put a socket wrench on it and hit it with a mallet. doesnt budge. seems to be damaging the bolt instead.
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  #12  
Old 10-14-2015, 09:10 AM
adhd143 adhd143 is offline
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If you haven't tried this, spray some Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster and allow that to soak in. If you have a 6 point hex socket the correct size, try using that with a breaker bar for the socket handle. The 6 point socket is better to prevent rounding the nut if it is that hard to take off. If needed , use a length of cast iron water pipe to give you more leverage and torque. Gradually applying the torque required to loosen a stuck nut this way may help to prevent rounding the corners as well. If they are already too rounded, there are specialty sockets that are designed so that the face of the bolt rather than the points take the torque, thus preventing the bolt from being totally ruined. If that happens, there is always the pipe wrench to try. Good luck
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Old 03-29-2016, 12:57 PM
dritter101 dritter101 is offline
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My experience with the brakes was"Why can't every manufacturer do it this way".
My suggestion would be to go to your local parts store and buy a simple piston pusher.
On my car I just remove the top bolt of the caliper and lay it back like opening a clam. Take out the old ones, take a cell phone picture of how they are situated, Use the piston pusher, then put the new ones in, close up the "clam", replace the bolt and tighten it. If you have a torque wrench, look up the measurement.
Grab a. Beer and you're done.
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