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  #16  
Old 07-30-2010, 04:42 AM
desert_fox's Avatar
desert_fox desert_fox is offline
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Check out the capacitor (condensor) that is taped up in the wiring harness also.
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  #17  
Old 07-30-2010, 02:58 PM
gliderflight gliderflight is offline
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Default 2000 Maxima P1320 & OEM vs aftermarket coils & cylinder misfire

Quote:
Originally Posted by gliderflight View Post
I have the P1320 code and have also replaced all spark plugs and 6 coils. Still no success in getting the code to stay off. I am testing harnesses now per the service manual, but being that I am not very good with electrical systems, this may take a while for me to confirm whether it's the harnesses.

Just a note: It appears that BWD Brand coils (carried by Pep Boys) is the same as the OEM. I just replaced all six coils. Some of the new coils had the Nissan logo partially ground off, while some had the Nissan logo entirely still on. I'll keep everyone posted. BTW, let me know if my posting etiquette is correct.
P1320 problem solved .
In short, here’s what I found. 4 of the 6 newly installed coils were operating out of range.
Reference Factory Service Manual Section EC – Engine Control System; under “DTC P1320 IGNITION SIGNAL”, there is an “ECM Terminals and Reference Value” table. This shows the Data (DC) operating range between 0-0.4V on the graph.
All 6 new coils were by BWD Brand from Pep Boys. 4 were made in Poland; 2 were made in Japan. (I noted in a previous post that some of these coils had the Nissan logo partially ground off; others still had the Nissan logo intact; some had not Nissan logos. This led me to believe that BWD is the same as OEM; maybe so, but tolerances are obviously not consistent with OEM.)
The Poland coils were operating in the 0.3V range with engine running at idle; these same coils were operating in the 0.54V range with engine running at 2500RPM. The Poland coils are out of operating range.
The Japan coils were operating in the 0.2V range with engine running at idle; these same coils were operating in the 0.32V range with engine running at 2500RPM. The Japan coils are within operating range.
Here’s how I troubleshot the problem. This process applies if you’ve already replaced all coils and still have the P1320 problem. If you are reading this prior to starting your repairs, then obviously, Step 1 does not apply.
1. During testing of all new coils installed, I noted the operating ranges. Make sure to label all new and old coils by cylinder #’s prior to starting anywork!
2. I then reinstalled all the old coils back to their respective cylinders, performed my tests on all coils, and noted the operating ranges. (This should have been done prior to any repairs.) Had I done this test prior to performing repairs, I would have found that the ignition coil with the problem was the same as the cylinder with the misfire (DTC P0306).
3. I then installed one of the new coils that operated in the proper range. For first timers, just buy OEM.
Lesson learned: I originally replaced only the coil that showed DTC P0306, but with an aftermarket coil. If I had bought OEM in the first place, I would have been home free.
For newbies such as myself, make sure you go through all the steps as outlined in the Factory Service Manual Section EC – Engine Control System, “DTC P1320 IGNITION SIGNAL” to troubleshot your problems, especially if the fix I described above does not work for you.
One final note, if using a basic multi-meter tester for Step 11 CHECK CONDENSER, you may not be able to get any usable results b/c testing between Terminals 1 and 2 of the condenser should read a resistance greater than 1 mega ohm. If your meter is flashing I could mean that you are indeed greater than 1 mega ohm (and out of range) or your reading is infinite, meaning there could be damage.
-Gliderflight
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  #18  
Old 07-30-2010, 03:00 PM
gliderflight gliderflight is offline
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Thank you for responding, Desert Fox. Really appreciate the suggestion. The condenser was not the problem, but for $10, it was worth a quick shot to see if it fixed the problem. I posted an edit to my original post to explain what I found. Thanks again.
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  #19  
Old 11-06-2010, 03:11 AM
TXpeaceman TXpeaceman is offline
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2001 Pathfinder
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 7
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Gliderflight I wish I would have read your post before I purchased my coils. I purchased 6 BWD coils and they are all from Poland. I put them in and the code came back. How do you check the volts? I guessing using a volt meter and putting it in the coil where the plug goes. Do I need to check the Ohms reading to? Thanks for any replies

TXpeaceman
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  #20  
Old 11-06-2010, 09:26 AM
gliderflight gliderflight is offline
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Txpeaceman, just to be safe, I am assuming you have a low skill level, like myself. So the steps below are pretty fundamental. Not trying to insult you. You will be measuring voltage at the ECM, not the coil. You do not need to measure ohms for this specific test.
This test procedure is for 2000 Nissan Maximas. Reference the 2000 Nissan Maxima Factory Service Manual Section EC – Engine Control System. You should be able to Google this and download it for free. I think you can also download it from x.nissanhelp.com.
Go buy Haynes Manual # 72021 for the Nissan Maxima, which tells you all the necessary safety precautions to perform prior to accessing the ECM. Failure to follow these safety procedures could be very catastrophic, and very, very expensive to your electrical, ECM & air bag system.
(Note: Haynes Manual # 72021 for the Nissan Maxima (1993 thru 2001) calls the ECM a “PCM-Powertrain Control Moduel”. This repair manual tells you how to access the ECM from the driver side. If you have a 2000 Maxima, you’ll need to access the ECM from the passenger side, which is shown on page EC-114.)
Read page EC-15 “ECM”. After finishing repairs, your car may run rough for a while until the ECM “re-learns” the car. I think it takes about 10 minutes to relearn.
Read page EC-16-17 carefully! You will not be removing he ECM harness, only the harness cover. I reference this section just in case you accidentally remove the ECM harness. EC-17 tells you how the cylinders/coils are numbered.
On Page EC-114, follow procedures under “ECM Terminals and Reference Value” section to gain access to the ECM. The “ECM HARNESS CONNECTOR TERMINAL LAYOUT” shows you exact terminal locations. Step 3 describes “back probing”, which is inserting the probe into the back side (outside) of the connector (where the wires come in).
Page EC 374 has a table. Read the notes above and in this table. Obviously, you get the terminal number and wire color associated with each cylinder (coil) number. You will need to test each coil at idle and 2500RPM. You’ll need to get someone to help you with this, of course, unless you have a long flexible leg, or a third arm. At idle, you should read between 0-0.2V. At 2500RPM, you should read between 0.1 – 0.3 V. Note that there is a typo on this table that incorrectly shows the 2500RPM operating range between 0 – 0.2V. Page EC-116 shows the correct operating range. Your voltmeter will show oscillating (changing) values—choose the highest value you see after measuring continuously for 15sec.
Make sure to measure between the terminal and a ground point on the car frame.
If your new coils are operating out of range, return them and don’t bother getting an exchange. By the way, unless all six original coils were bad, you should only need to replace the bad one with OEM.
If you need to reset a flashing airbag light, I got this advice from Scott West on the web:
“On many Nissan's, simply turn the key on, then push in the driver's door dome light switch 5-6 times within 5 seconds.
“On the newest models, turn the key ON until the light goes out, quickly turn it off then back on. Repeat for a total of 3 times to clear the light.
“This is assuming that perhaps you had something unplugged during service and turned the key on. If the light came on for no 'reason' then there is a problem with the system. Check for blown fuses or loose connections following the repair manual.
“NEVER place yourself close to the bag when turning on the key and follow ALL safety guidelines in the repair book. These repairs are best left to a professional. “
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  #21  
Old 11-07-2010, 05:11 PM
TXpeaceman TXpeaceman is offline
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2001 Pathfinder
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 7
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gliderflight thanks for your help. I checked the BWD coils all 6 of them are from Poland. I did a volt test on them and they were all out of range over 0.2 volts during idle and in the 0.5 volt range at 25000 rpm. I will go back to O'Really tomorrow and see if I can get my money back. Next time I will spend the extra money and get original parts. I wish I would have done this in the beginning it would have saved me alot of time and money.

Thanks again

TXPeaceman
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  #22  
Old 11-07-2010, 05:33 PM
gliderflight gliderflight is offline
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Posts: 5
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Your welcome, Txpeacement. I'm glad you finally figured it out. Just make sure to return the favor to someone else in the future and spread some good will.
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  #23  
Old 07-13-2011, 10:54 AM
440racer
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Posts: n/a
Default THANKS!

GLiderflight,

I have been fighting the 1320 error for months.

I saw your post a while back but was intimitaded by the testing procedure.

I took the truck (Pathfinder) to Nissan and an independant. They both replaced parts only to have the code return and ultimately tell me the only solution was to replace all 6 coils and then possibly the ecm.

Finally I decided to check the voltage at the ecm as you outlined and found 2 of the new coils I had installed were not within spec voltage.

I actually replace these new coils with old ones that were in spec and finally the code did not return.

So today I finally passed an emissions inspection and can get my tag.

Thanks again for your post!
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  #24  
Old 07-13-2011, 10:55 AM
440racer
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Posts: n/a
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 440racer View Post
GLiderflight,

I have been fighting the 1320 error for months.

I saw your post a while back but was intimitaded by the testing procedure.

I took the truck (Pathfinder) to Nissan and an independant. They both replaced parts only to have the code return and ultimately tell me the only solution was to replace all 6 coils and then possibly the ecm.

Finally I decided to check the voltage at the ecm as you outlined and found 2 of the new coils I had installed were not within spec voltage.

I actually replace these new coils with old ones that were in spec and finally the code did not return.

So today I finally passed an emissions inspection and can get my tag.

Thanks again for your post!
intimitaded!!! HAHA I should have spell checked before posting!
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  #25  
Old 08-27-2011, 05:49 AM
SavageS88
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default please help?

Quote:
Originally Posted by gliderflight View Post
Txpeaceman, just to be safe, I am assuming you have a low skill level, like myself. So the steps below are pretty fundamental. Not trying to insult you. You will be measuring voltage at the ECM, not the coil. You do not need to measure ohms for this specific test.
This test procedure is for 2000 Nissan Maximas. Reference the 2000 Nissan Maxima Factory Service Manual Section EC – Engine Control System. You should be able to Google this and download it for free. I think you can also download it from x.nissanhelp.com.
Go buy Haynes Manual # 72021 for the Nissan Maxima, which tells you all the necessary safety precautions to perform prior to accessing the ECM. Failure to follow these safety procedures could be very catastrophic, and very, very expensive to your electrical, ECM & air bag system.
(Note: Haynes Manual # 72021 for the Nissan Maxima (1993 thru 2001) calls the ECM a “PCM-Powertrain Control Moduel”. This repair manual tells you how to access the ECM from the driver side. If you have a 2000 Maxima, you’ll need to access the ECM from the passenger side, which is shown on page EC-114.)
Read page EC-15 “ECM”. After finishing repairs, your car may run rough for a while until the ECM “re-learns” the car. I think it takes about 10 minutes to relearn.
Read page EC-16-17 carefully! You will not be removing he ECM harness, only the harness cover. I reference this section just in case you accidentally remove the ECM harness. EC-17 tells you how the cylinders/coils are numbered.
On Page EC-114, follow procedures under “ECM Terminals and Reference Value” section to gain access to the ECM. The “ECM HARNESS CONNECTOR TERMINAL LAYOUT” shows you exact terminal locations. Step 3 describes “back probing”, which is inserting the probe into the back side (outside) of the connector (where the wires come in).
Page EC 374 has a table. Read the notes above and in this table. Obviously, you get the terminal number and wire color associated with each cylinder (coil) number. You will need to test each coil at idle and 2500RPM. You’ll need to get someone to help you with this, of course, unless you have a long flexible leg, or a third arm. At idle, you should read between 0-0.2V. At 2500RPM, you should read between 0.1 – 0.3 V. Note that there is a typo on this table that incorrectly shows the 2500RPM operating range between 0 – 0.2V. Page EC-116 shows the correct operating range. Your voltmeter will show oscillating (changing) values—choose the highest value you see after measuring continuously for 15sec.
Make sure to measure between the terminal and a ground point on the car frame.
If your new coils are operating out of range, return them and don’t bother getting an exchange. By the way, unless all six original coils were bad, you should only need to replace the bad one with OEM.
If you need to reset a flashing airbag light, I got this advice from Scott West on the web:
“On many Nissan's, simply turn the key on, then push in the driver's door dome light switch 5-6 times within 5 seconds.
“On the newest models, turn the key ON until the light goes out, quickly turn it off then back on. Repeat for a total of 3 times to clear the light.
“This is assuming that perhaps you had something unplugged during service and turned the key on. If the light came on for no 'reason' then there is a problem with the system. Check for blown fuses or loose connections following the repair manual.
“NEVER place yourself close to the bag when turning on the key and follow ALL safety guidelines in the repair book. These repairs are best left to a professional. “


I have a 1999 Maxima and I'm getting that same P1320 code. I'm looking to do that Voltage test (the one your describing here) but i've looking in the manual and it doesn't describe well enough how exactly this is supposed to be done.. I'm fairly decent when it comes to actual mechanical issues but I'm kind of a newbie when it comes to tracking down electrical issues so if you could help me out i would greatly appreciate it!!
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  #26  
Old 06-17-2012, 03:06 PM
ashishgheware ashishgheware is offline
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2000 Maxima
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 2
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I have replaced all coils, spark plugs, connectors etc. But P1320 keeps on coming with no further information on the scan tool. Engine runs smooth, no misfire and no issue. Now I need to go for emission check. My mechanic asked me to replace the condensor/capacitor taped on the wiring harness. Where do I get it from? What is it called? Can anyone help.
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  #27  
Old 10-16-2012, 07:21 PM
artgarage artgarage is offline
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2000 Maxima
 
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can the crank position sensor cause the p1320 code?
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  #28  
Old 11-05-2012, 06:08 PM
scot gop scot gop is offline
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2001 Maxima
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 10
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does the po 1320 code mean a coil is bad and not the crank senosr? i have a 1320 and 110 now.i am changing the crank sensor by the oil filter tonight. or could it be the other sennsor on top[? can you test the senors by measuurithe ohms across the terminals?
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  #29  
Old 11-06-2012, 07:50 AM
artgarage artgarage is offline
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Posts: 2
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The crank position sensor [at the pulley} is a standard design magnetic pickup coil. The correct cold spec should be between 600 and 750 ohms resistance cold.
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  #30  
Old 11-07-2012, 12:12 PM
whoppapapa whoppapapa is offline
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1997 Maxima
1997 Maxima
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 3
Default chronic P1320 code solved

I've been fighting this p1320 code on my daughter's 97 maxima for the last 6 months. The car runs fine (no misfiring) and no other codes are thrown. I've replaced all six coils, the condenser and both crankshaft postion sensors, but the code always comes back. Finally I checked continuity on the signal wires from each coil to the ECU. Connect meter probes to each coil connector to the corresponding terminal at the ECU (backprobe at the ECU connector). Continuity was intermittent on the gray wire from cyl #4 when I firmly moved the ECCS harness near the passenger side strut tower. I referrred to this TSB for the correct repair procedure:

EC97-018b NTB98-008b September 16, 1999
1995-99 MAXIMA EGI HARNESS WIRE BREAKAGE
DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIR PROCEDURE
APPLIED VEHICLES:
1995-99 Maxima (A32)

This procedure is a big PITA but it's been a month now and the code hasn't returned so I guess it was worth it. The car just passed California smog test yesterday so I am calling this a success. This forum has been very helpful in fixing this problem and I hope my experience helps anyone else fighting this code.
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