#1
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2001 nissan weird starting problem
hey guys,
i'm having an issue that i have not come accross before on a 2001 nissan maxima. it will not start with the key, i can have the key in the on position and jump the starter from the battery and it runs and drives no problems. i removed ignition switch (electrical part, and spliced in connectors off the #1 green (main power supply constant power) to the #5 B/R to starter. if i jump the #6 and #7 pin from neutral safety switch i can get the starter to crank with key in off position. as soon as I turn key into on position, i lose power at the #1 green wire and starter cannot be jumped from either spliced wires or ignition switch contacts. is there anything that could be controlling the #1 green wire that when key is turned to on position it steels power? i didn't touch the car for 2 weeks and went to crank it with key and it did try to start from key twice, but now is acting same as before and just clicks. i have put a test light on the green wire on ignition and indeed it has constant power once neutral safety switch is jumped but as soon as I turn key to on, no power :S your help is much appreciated. thanks in advance. I am using the SC-START-02 starting schematic for A/T since it is an auto transmission. |
#2
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Why on earth have you tried to rig to start the car with the ignition OFF? Even if the starter works all day long key off the ignition power circuits will be off and car still not start.
Need a schematic to do it RIGHT. Then need the ability to tell from that what is really needed. '...just clicks.' How old is the battery in that car? A dead battery will show volts at no load then system turned on to soak up what little power is there then drops those 'supposed' volts to almost zero to not work anything. Last edited by Howard Bell; 05-08-2018 at 05:31 PM. |
#3
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Quote:
i have the schematic.. correct, the car does not start without key in on position. Car also does not crank from ignition being put into start position because there is what i am now thinking a short in the green #1 wire. My "tests" which you call "rig to start the car with the ignition off" were to determine a faulty ignition switch or neutral position switch, both have been ruled out as working. from later tests I have determined that i am losing power at ignition green #1 wire when ignition switch is turned to start position, but has power in on position. my battery is good (i can start and drive the car and park and drive it, if i turn key to on position and jump starter from batter to starter positive cable) i can also crank with key off from ignition switch (was testing the circuit for opens / shorts ) i am going to trace wiring and ensure no shorts throughout the harness. any other insight's of what else the problem could be are much appreciated. |
#4
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A battery is not considered as good until it passes a loadtest at the proper CCA for that vehicle and battery. They can do a lot of flaky things as well and spit their guts out at starting time only, as the starter system loads a battery like 10X what anything else in a car will do. I have started and driven with a bad battery for as long as 2 months with no trouble until it finally settles in, often the battery has to drag down to show problems other than starting which will show up way before other issues.
A quick rough volt check is an indicator, battery volts run from 12.3 (old) to 12.8 volt (new) at just sitting and higher is a better indicator. I myself consider 12.2 and lower volts as a problem, I used to test hundreds of cars and that is a number at which lots of troubles in all car models begins around. There can be a relay before the big relay of the starter solenoid itself depending on the system design, that of course must be working. Any added resistance in the cables or connectors are a problem as well. The solenoid if old enough to have weld melted the main internal contact can be bad to jump with more solid power but not work at power split between starting and ignition and other car loads with key on. The starter itself if old can need enough amp to kill it pulling up under certain conditions. Find out where your clicking comes from, that may help. The clicking generally says that power has at least gotten that far but no further. Assuming you have the correct chipped ignition key there. Last edited by Howard Bell; 05-08-2018 at 06:45 PM. |
Tags |
2001, nissan, problem, starting, weird |
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