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1996 Nissan Frontier 4X4 engine change Forums > > 1996 Nissan Frontier 4X4 engine change 1996 Nissan Frontier 4X4 engine change
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Frontier Nissan Frontier/HB/Truck Discussion Forum

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Old 08-16-2019, 07:01 AM
MSgt Luttrell MSgt Luttrell is offline
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Default 1996 Nissan Frontier 4X4 engine change

Guys, I have a buddy that needs my help swapping out a bad engine in his old Nissan puckup, it's a stick shift 4x4 truck and it looks to me like I'll need to remove the transmission and transfer case before I pull the engine. Looking in all the technical manuals on this site I do not find any manual covering their removal.

Can any of you give me a little guidance on this task? Do the torsion bars and cross member need to be removed to remove the transmission and transfer case, or can they be removed with those installed? Any tips or heads up on any pit falls is appreciated.


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Old 08-16-2019, 08:11 AM
MSgt Luttrell MSgt Luttrell is offline
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Ok, I did finally find the complete Service manual on another site, it's for a 98 model, but appears the be the same.
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Old 08-17-2019, 06:00 AM
Schrade Schrade is offline
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Have been there only on Jeep CJ; minimum electronics...
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Traded my '94 vette for an '02 Frontier. What's wrong with me? What's right with me???
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Old 08-17-2019, 05:03 PM
MSgt Luttrell MSgt Luttrell is offline
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Got the transfer case and transmission out today and the engine ready to pull in the morning. It was hot today, 109 heat index!








Last edited by MSgt Luttrell; 08-17-2019 at 05:05 PM.
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Old 08-17-2019, 07:02 PM
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smj999smj smj999smj is offline
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2003 Frontier KC SVE 4x4
 
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You can either drop the torsion bars and crossmember assembly, remove the transmission/transfer case assembly and then pull the engine from the top....or....remove or lower the front diff, remove the radiator (which I would recommend for either method), pull the engine forward to release it from the trans and input shaft and pull the engine from the top. It's a little tricky to re-install the second way, as you need to get the trans and engine on the same level so the input shaft will slide through the clutch and into the end of the crank (pilot bushing). It usually takes three people---one to push the engine around, one to lower/raise the engine hoist and one to raise/lower a jack placed under the transmission bellhouse---to get it in. It's a bit of a pain doing that way, but it does spare you from removing the trans and having to do a wheel alignment after you get it back together (because of the torsion bars being unloaded and then re-loaded, which can affect the ride height and camber).
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Old 08-25-2019, 03:08 PM
MSgt Luttrell MSgt Luttrell is offline
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Ok, I got the engine swapped out and everything back together. Tried to fire it up and it cranked up for just a second and died, could not get it to try to fire again. It's got fuel pressure and spark, but my Noid light is busted, so I'll have to get a new one tomorrow to further troubleshoot the injectors. I double checked to verify I didn't have the fuel lines crossed and I'm absolutely sure I didn't mess up the oil pump/distributor timing when I installed the new pump; I made a scribe line on the distributor rotor to make sure it went back exactly as it came out. I doubt the crank sensor is bad as I'm getting good spark to the plugs. The spark plugs are completely dry after turning the engine over quite a bit, so there's no fuel getting to them. I also verified that the engine has good compression.

The replacement engine is a salvage engine from a reputable place, but it'd sat up for a good while, I think if the Noid light check is good, I'll go ahead and swap in the known good injectors from the old engine as the ones in the salvage engine may be clogged. Though the old engine was cooked, I drove it into my shop, it ran decent, just smoked and knocked pretty badly.

Last edited by MSgt Luttrell; 08-25-2019 at 03:18 PM.
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