#1
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battery goes dead overnight, help
the battery that is in there is about 4yrs old and it getting close to the end of its life but it started to act u[p suddenly two days ago. i got into the truck to go to church and it turned over three times and nothing except twitchy gauges so i checked the battery and found my negative cable lose i tightened it and put it on the charger and a half hour later the truck started. and i had to reset the radio and i let it idle for about 10 minutes before i drove to town it did just fine driving but if i shut it off for an hour or two it would just barely start took it to les schwab and they diagnosed a bad battery and for 130 bucks for the cheap battery they would fix it. i turned them down and drove home. i got home just fine and while it was running i checked the voltage and it was at 12.4 volts that sounds a little low. it is the original alternator and a duralast gold battery that is 730 cca. this is the only vehicle that i can drive legit the others have no tags and no a/c. should i have the alternator checked as well or just the battery?
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#2
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You should have the alternator tested but is sounds like it is working. The vehicle will usually shut off if it isn't. Just because the battery is showing 12 volts doesn't mean is has enough available amperage to crank the engine. If the vehicle starts with a jump that's usually a good indication of a bad battery or a loose or corroded wire
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#3
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Quote:
I'd bet a $ that it's your battery. Haveing a loose terminal didn't help your battery have long durability either. Check around for price's and get a Sealed maintenance free Batry.
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2013 SVV6 KC AT 2WD Frontier, '93 4Cyl, AT, KC Hardbody(20yrs Orig Owner-Sold 174K mi.) |
#4
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found one at costco for 90 dollars. pay day is on the third.
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#5
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Charge up the battery. Start the truck, and measure voltage across the battery terminals at about 2000 rpm; should be about 13.5 to 14.5 volts if charging system is OK.
Alternator OK? Then disconnect battery cable and let battery sit, overnight or a day or two. If it won't start the truck, then battery is not able to hold a charge, bad. If battery does start the truck after a couple of days being disconnected, then sounds like a parasitic drain of some sorts. Agree that battery life of 4 years isn't bad; I just replaced my 3-year old battery in my Mazda truck, was 3 days out of any warranty (bought replacement at Walmart, made by Johnson Controls, who makes 85% of the batteries in USA). But the Arizona heat kills batteries, 2.5 years is average lifetime here. |
#6
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Be Absolutely Sure that you get a Batry with "At Least" the same "CCA" as the OE Batry and the Higher the "CCA" the better, but remember to stay with the same "Group Size" for your Truck. Also make absolutely sure that the Positive and Negative Terminal's are the same orientation as the OE Batry so that the Cable's will reach and that the hood will close. On my '13 the Batry and Hood distance is extremely close so this is Very Important on these truck's. |
#7
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i disconnected the battery and charged it and let it sit for a day disconnected it wouldn't hold a charge. so i hooked it up and charged it and started it with the engine boost on and once it got started i disconnected the charger and tested the system at about 200rpms it was 13.7 volts and as long as i kept it running it was fine but as soon as i shut it off an hour later it was hard to start. i have been trying to find a wiring diagram for the charging system all the ones i find do not have the fusible links up at the positive cable end.
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#8
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You have a failing alternator. Do a simple load test. With engine running turn on you a/c or heater on and fan on high, radio,headlights, fog lights, turn signal, then take voltage reading. If in the low 13v or below 13v replace your alternator.
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#9
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the battery has a sticker on the side that says 02/07 i think it is getting old and i left the interior lights on one to many times.
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#10
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Yes, that's VERY old; here in Arizona batteries last 3 years. You measured 13.7 volts across battery terminals with engine running, I think your charging system is OK. Just replace the battery and then see if it holds charge.
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#11
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Batteries these days typically last 3-4 years. If the battery is 11 years old, then you more than got your money's worth out of it!
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#12
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went to toby's batteries and bought a rebuilt one for 40 bucks the old one had a dead cell. the last one i bought lasted 5 yrs so we shall see. now i hear about the cooling tank in the radiator might leak and suck water in the tranny. when i asked the dealer about this they had never heard of such a thing.
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#13
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For AT; Check the Radiator for how the coolant look's; Check the ATF dipstick to see how the ATF looks; Check to see if the ATF has been rerouted to bypass the radiator. For AT; Is your Transmission shifting ok? For AT; Check to see if the Radiator has been replaced with a newer radiator # or an aftermarket radiator. If all of the Fluid's above are ok with the original oe radiator and the Transmission is shifting ok; Bypass the radiator immediately and replace the Radiator with an updated radiator and reconnect the ATF hose's to the New Radiator. I didn't know about the Transmission/Coolant mixing problem's with the V6 with AT until after I replaced the '93 Hardbody with a New 2013. Although the '13 was after the '05-'10 V6 AT Frontier defective radiator's, I was just lucky in that respect. Because the '93 Hardbody was such a reliable Truck, I never imagined that Nissan would let this go on for several year's with an OE Radiator. So far I haven't had any problem's with the '13 SVV6; So far it's smooth and quiet. If you decide to get a New Nissan, Nissan Customer Service will give you a Loyalty Discount ie a VPP. Luckily I found out about the VPP by sheer luck and it helped me get a lot off of a New Nissan Truck. The Dealership's won't tell you anything about them. Last edited by JRJoe; 08-27-2018 at 09:44 AM. |
#14
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If the dealer says they never heard of it, they are either lying or a bunch of idiots! All you have to do is do a Google search for Nissan radiator failures and you'll get more hits than you'll know what to do with! They initially extended the radiator warranty from 3/36 to 8 years/80,000 miles and covered subsequent damage (which was usually the transmission). They last a class action law suit in NY state and then extended the warranty and added repair cost limitations of up to $2500 for those covered between 80,001 and 90,000 miles and I believe it was either a $3000 or $3500 limit from 90,001 to 100,000 miles.
If you have a 2006, you will likely have a part number of 21460-EA215, 21460-EA265 or 21460-EA200 on the Calsonic sticker on the top tank of the radiator. If you do, you have the original factory radiator. As mentioned, you can bypass the cooler or just replace the radiator. Aftermarket radiators are cheap and so far I have not heard of any issues with the coolers in them, nor in the updated Nissan replacements or their value line radiators. You can find generic brand, Chinese-made (as most radiators are these days, regardless of whether they are name brand or not) for around $75 and they work. Spectra Premium is a popular brand for around $100 and has a 2-year warranty. If you want to step up to an all-aluminum radiator, Stillen Motorsports sells direct-fit, CSF aluminum radiators for $350; just make sure if you get the CSF, you have to use the original radiator cap (which may require a little adjustment to get to fit) or you will have to cut the spring off of the new radiator cap that comes with it. The factory radiator cap is not a pressure vent cap, like the one that comes on the CSF radiators. The factory pressure vent cap is on the coolant reservoir. Signs of a failed cooler tube include white streaks or pink custard when checking the AT dipstick, oil in the coolant reservoir and/or a shudder or vibration in the trans at highway speeds. |
#15
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no custard so far. i think i will be saving for a new radiator it never gets very hot tho according to the temp gauge, always on the lower part of the gauge.
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battery, dead, overnight |
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