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Old 04-14-2018, 05:28 PM
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rkmengineering rkmengineering is offline
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2005 Frontier Crew Cab
 
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Default 2005 Frontier D40 Fuel Pump Repalcement

Part II in a Series (Part I- VQ40 timing chain whine)

Again, this is for all of you DYIs', just replaced the fuel pump assembly on my 2005 Frontier 4x4
LE crew cab which now has 212000 miles and is still running strong and looking great.
Replacement was treated as a maintenance item since I am still do long hauls and the original pump's remaining life was starting to scare me.

Purchased an aftermarket complete pump assembly from Amazon and watched a few How to's on You Tube (What a waste of time).

I still have the CD service manual for reference and followed the removal/Install procedure).

1. Drove until the fuel level was low (approximately 2-3 gallons in the tank).
2. Removed the gas cap, jacked up the rear as high as the jack stands could be mounted and
removed the left rear wheel.
3. Used compressed air to blow off as much debris that I could see around the fuel filler, EVAP, vent
return lines, and tank.
4. Mounted a 12"x 18" board to my floor jack using tie down straps.
5. Depressurized the fuel line per the manual.
6. For safety, kept a fire extinguisher nearby
7. Disconnected the fuel filler hose at the tank using a 10 mm wrench for the clamp.
8, Disconnected the Filler vent line by depressing the 2 tabs and gently separating the lines.
9. Disconnecting the EVAP line was the most difficult. The line is locked in on both sides with very
thin and flimsy plastic clips. These clips are available on-line for about $10 each (2 required if
you break both of them), I was able to successfully remove the clips.
10. Position the jack to the center point of the tank (you will have to guess where that is, I found
that it was towards the rear of center but if the remaining fuel shifts, this will change the center
of gravity).
11. There are 2 straps and 3 bolts supporting the tank. Socket size is 17 mm. Loosen the bolts
making sure that your jack does not interfere with the straps.
12. With the jack in place, remove the strap bolts and check for tank balance. (The tank sits in a
tunnel so it won't go anywhere until it is out of the Tunnel).
13. Slowly lower the jack a few inches until you can see the top of the tank with the remaining fuel
line and wire harness.
14. Use compressed air to blow off additional debris.
15. Disconnect the wire harness and remaining fuel line.
16. Cover/plug all of the exposed holes/lines to prevent contamination ( I used disposable nitrile
gloves and rubber plugs).
17. Lower the tank and from under the vehicle.
18. Use compressed air and clean rags to clean around the fuel pump port before removing the
pump.
19. To remove the pump, there is a large metal locking ring. If you have the spanner wrench, great.
If you do not, like me, use a brass punch or something that will not create a spark and that will
ruin your day (remember, you are dealing with a gasoline tank and fuel vapors and if you need
to take a smoke break, disregard this thread and have a shop do the work).
20. Gently tap the ring on the different lugs to unlock. (the ring does not self center so you have
work the ring off by tapping around it).
21. Once the ring is removed, gently remove the fuel pump assembly being very careful with the
fuel gauge sending unit (the float).
22. Carefully remove the old "O" ring and clean out the channel.
23. Install the new "O" ring, fuel pump assembly making sure that it is properly oriented in the right
direction.
24. Clean the locking ring and gently rotate by tapping the locking tabs (should be rotated all the
way to the stops).
25. The locking clip on the old fuel pump fitting can be easily removed and installed on the new
pump by gently lifting the tabs one at a time.
26. Reinstall the tank in the reverse order of removal.

Helpful hints:

Work outside cool and dry (My garage has a gas water heater, not good).
This Model does not have a fuel filter and getting debris into the tank is not in your best interest (keep it clean).
Lubricated the strap bolts and left the bolts loose to recenter the tank in place prior to tightening the tank down.
Although I did this myself, 2 persons would be better.
Had access to the clips and parts in the event that I broke anything.
Wore gloves and eye protection.
Fire Extinguisher on stand by.
Total time start to finish was 3 hours (and I was in no hurry) with no hiccups.

Coming Soon

Part III

C200K axle bearing and seal replacement

Last edited by rkmengineering; 04-14-2018 at 05:30 PM. Reason: typo
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