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Stripped out head bolt, help needed. Forums > > Stripped out head bolt, help needed. Stripped out head bolt, help needed.
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Frontier Nissan Frontier/HB/Truck Discussion Forum

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  #1  
Old 01-16-2016, 01:24 PM
ajax ajax is offline
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Default Stripped out head bolt, help needed.

Hello

2006 Frontier
4.0L
6 Speed

I have a rounded hex head bolt.
All head bolts were loosened on passenger bank 1/8 turn or less.
Exhaust side #3 head bolt has rounded out on 2nd round of loosening head.

Al bolts were very difficult to break and show signs of the fight. (new bolts will be used)
I should of gone a full 1/4 turn on each bolt but i stopped on "click". Figured i would take time switching loosening the bolts. Next pass I rounded it out.

I don't have a welder
tried next size up sae but scared to hammer in on head what i think will get it in.
tried to get the Irwin bolt extractors but I need a deep walled and the kit that i was able to get wasn't big enough width wise. I do think they make an extension deep walled kit that has wider extractors. Thinking if i should order it.

I can drill it out but these bolts are torqued down really hard even after I was able to break the seal on the 1st attempt.

I have never used a bolt extractor with this much torque.

I've seen where they cut bolt head off with dremel.
But will that possibly warp head after the bolt head pops?
And is there even enough room in there.


Thanks in advance.
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  #2  
Old 06-12-2018, 09:37 AM
flyrv9 flyrv9 is offline
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One option would be to tighten all the bolts back up in order to spec. Then cut the head off the bad bolt. Then loosen the rest of the bolts in the correct order and finally remove the head after disconnecting everything else (manifolds timing chain, etc.). With the head off you should have enough left of the shank of the bolt to be able to remove it. I would use a penetrant like kroil first and wait a little. A stud removal tool might work here; or if there are enough threads put two nuts on and tighten them together and remove by loosening the bottom one.
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Old 06-16-2018, 08:05 AM
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mpe235 mpe235 is offline
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Snap on has deep extractor sockets.
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Old 06-24-2018, 02:37 AM
Howard Bell Howard Bell is offline
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I have doubts about ANY extractor of any type being able to remove what is in essence still a fully torqued bolt. They are too hard and brittle and will likely shatter. The bolt is likely a TTY one and why it seems to be so tight, normal for them to 'ring' your hand to sting when they pop loose as they are severely overtorqued and how they work. Cutting the head off bolt will likely damage the bolt head flat on head that will then fault the torquing down of the new bolt as it will not be bearing on a flat due to cutting damage. The typical bolt hardness will be utter fits to drill through.



'But will that possibly warp head after the bolt head pops?'


Too late for that, the single bolt has already done it if the others have been removed. I don't really agree with that idea anyway as I have yanked heads on hundreds of engines with zero regard to that 'rule' and not ever had a problem ever.



Maybe cut off MOST of the bolt head to leave much less to have to drill through then go at the center and gradually increase bit size until it frees up the last bit of flange from bolt head to leave the head unmarked.



First, if a dremel can fit down in to bolt head, depending on the bolt head rounded size pick a nut that fits the rounded size and glue it to the top of bolt to make a flat grinding guide and using a small OD rock in the dremel remove 6 flats worth of material using the nut as a guide. That helps immensely to create 6 pretty equal sides that a socket (6 point ONLY) can grab that is sized to the nut. I've easily removed McGard wheel lugs at 100 ft.lbs. doing that when the lug key shattered.
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