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D21 hesitation during closed loop condition Forums > > D21 hesitation during closed loop condition D21 hesitation during closed loop condition
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  #1  
Old 02-02-2012, 04:14 PM
Dwshelto Dwshelto is offline
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Default D21 hesitation during closed loop condition

I have a 1993 nissan d21. It ran really good for the last year or so. Two weeks ago it started hesitating during acceleration after the engine had warmed up. No problems during the first 8-10 miles of driving. It has a new air temp sensor, tps, maf sensor, fuel filter, plugs, wires, distributor cap and button. The cat converter has also been removed. The ecu shows a code 41 which is air temp sensor circuit. I checked the sensor with a meter and it was bad. I replaced it and checked the voltage and it is 5 volts which is good. Truck still runs bad when warm and i cant clear the code. Whats the chances of the ecu malfunctioning? Any suggestion will be appreciated. Anybody else having this problem.
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Old 02-02-2012, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Whats the chances of the ecu malfunctioning?
Very unlikely I haven't seen a bad ECU on the D21 with that type of symptoms. Sounds more like a bad distributor.
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  #3  
Old 02-03-2012, 03:04 AM
Dwshelto Dwshelto is offline
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Default Distributor

Thanks for the input. Could you explain what you think is happening with the distributor? Any test i can perform to verify that its malfunctioning before i swap it out? Thanks
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  #4  
Old 02-03-2012, 11:52 AM
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jlg2002 jlg2002 is offline
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My 86.5 D21 had problems with fuel injectors clogging and the dist cap coil wire interface. both will make it run like snot. Maybe a new place to look if you haven't already.
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Old 02-03-2012, 01:03 PM
Dwshelto Dwshelto is offline
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Default Jlg2002

Thanks for the input. I will look in to it. I would think i would get some kind of dtc for that though. Either rich or lean codes or even a ignition system code. Or maybe a crank angle sensor circuit code cause it determines spark and injector pulses. It got to acting stupid on my way home today so i shut it off at a stop light. It wouldnt rev over 2000 rpms. When the light changed to green i started it up and it ran like a scalded dog all the way home. The intake air temp code is all that it shows and will not clear. I have replaced the sensor and tested voltage and resistence and its all good. Its got me stumped. Ive even checked the primary and secondary coil voltage and its all in spec.
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  #6  
Old 02-06-2012, 05:13 PM
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jlg2002 jlg2002 is offline
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I wasn't aware a 93 had OBD codes like you've described. I'll do some research into the circuit and see if i see anything else. What code(s) are you seeing?
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Old 02-06-2012, 06:18 PM
Dwshelto Dwshelto is offline
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Its code 41. Intake air temp circuit. The code will not reset or immediately comes back. Not sure which. Thats the only code i get. Voltage is good and i cant find anything wrong with the circuit. Thanks for your help. I have spent alot on money on parts lately. Hope to get this problem resolved soon or im going to sell this truck.
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  #8  
Old 02-08-2012, 12:49 PM
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jlg2002 jlg2002 is offline
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I've looked at the circuit and it's fairly simple. 3 wires. Fault code 41 says it's either a short or open to cause the high/low voltage condition from the sensor. Therefore, either one or more of the wires has a open that doesn't allow the sensor voltage to be processed by the ECU- low voltage condition. or
The sensor is bad causing a high voltage condition. or
The sensor's input and output wires are shorted together. or
The ECU is bad (very remote).

My recommendation:
Remove the sensor plug (18M) and take the plug off of the ECU(262M) connect a multimeter to ECU pins 21,26, and 29 and ground. all should be open. check pins 21 and 29 for continuity should be 2-3 ohms max. check between 21& 29 and 26- it should be open to pin 26.so far so good. Apply a ground to ECU pin 21 or 29 and check for continuity to the B/G wire connection at 18M (sensor) it should be 2-3 ohms max (depending on where you hooked the ground wire and neg meter lead to). check the y/l wire at 18 m it should be open. move the ECU ground to pin 26 and recheck the y/l wire at 18M it should be 2-3 ohms max. (again depends on where you hook your lead too). If all these check out -look for a loose wire connection at plug 18M (unlocked or recessed).
Change the temp sensor again. These types of sensors are usually a heated wire type and "ohming" it out may not be a good way to check it's operation.
If none of these work then it is probably the ECU.
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