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Forums > > FYI/DIY: Timing Chain Tensioner Whine VQ40 repair
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  #31  
Old 11-07-2011, 11:11 AM
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Yes you definitely still need to hold the camshaft with a wrench while loosening the camshaft bolts on the cam gear. (It doesn't hurt to have the ring stopper gear in place to keep anything from rotating)

Here is direct link for special tools.

Nissan TechMate - Detail: J-48761 - STOPPER, RING GEAR

Nissan TechMate - Detail: J-50246 - VQ TENSIONER SHOE INSTALLER

As long as you can get the crankshaft bolt off some other way (ie. laying breaker bar against frame and bumping stater) then you probably don't really need special tools. Just find piece of wire or those little micro screwdrivers to stick in the tensioners to hold back plungers while replacing shoes.

As for the shoes themselves, you could easily push them on without the special too. Just have to force them on. Tool just made it a little easier but not necessary.


Good luck to all the DIY's
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  #32  
Old 11-07-2011, 12:47 PM
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A question for the 2005 owners who have had this issue:
When was your vehicle built in the factory( door tag has the build date)?

(My unit # 417413 with 185K miles was completed in Jan 05 and I haven't yet experienced the whine issue)
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  #33  
Old 11-07-2011, 01:47 PM
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Thanks for that OHNismo06

That is exactly what I was wanting to know.
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  #34  
Old 11-07-2011, 02:57 PM
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I replaced the secondary cam chains and tensioners on my truck a few months ago. rkmengineering and OHNismo06 make some great recommendations! Yup, important to have the necessary tools (to include Kent-Moore J-50246 & J-48761) and manuals/service bulletins (Nissan Service Manual & NTB09-128) on-hand. Plus, be sure you're clear on all the procedures/steps beforehand and take your time. FWIW, it took me about 15 hours over the course of 3 days to complete this job--ymmv I'm guessing I could probably do it in 11-12 hours now that I'm familiar with the process.

My two cents:

I found taking lotsa pictures and labeling all the nuts/bolts/assemblies that I removed very helpful when it came time to reinstall everything.

Be sure to verify the timing chains/crankshaft/cam sprockets are in the proper position before removing all three timing chains and secondary camshaft sprockets. The Nissan service manual contradicts itself in terms of finding TDC for cylinder #1. Bottom line, the pictorial on page EM-174 of the 2007 Nissan Frontier Service Manual (.pdf version) shows the correct position.

NTB09-128 recommends using J-48761 to hold the camshafts stationary (via the primary & secondary cam chains) in order to remove/install the bolt that secures each camshaft sprocket. FWIW, it took about 80-85 ft. lbs. to remove/install each camshaft sprocket bolt. Not an excessive amount if you're using proper hand tools (i.e., 0-150 ft. lb. torque wrench). Would not recommend using an air impact wrench/driver to remove/install this bolt due to the excessive amount of peak torque that would be placed on valve train components. The other option for removing each cam sprocket bolt is mentioned in the Nissan Service Manual. This method takes a bit more time and work, but does not place stress on the primary/secondary cam chains. It involves removing the intake plenum and valve covers to gain access to the camshafts. Each camshaft is then held stationary with a wrench while removing the camshaft sprocket bolt.

Follow the Nissan Service Manual closely when removing the front timing chain cover. There are 25-30 bolts holding the cover--it's easy to overlook one--look closely. Separate the front timing chain cover starting at the top and work slowly down (equally on both sides). The very bottom portion of the front timing chain cover (area next to the oil pan and crankshaft pulley seal) should act like a "hinge" during this process and should be the last part separated.

My truck had 100k miles on it at the time I replaced my chains/tensioners, so I elected to replace the water pump ($80-$90) and thermostat/housing ($15-$20), too. The water pump is located *inside* the front timing chain cover housing and is driven via the primary timing chain. It takes less than 5 minutes to replace the water pump with the primary timing chain removed. Replacing it after-the-fact is much more cumbersome--cumbersome enough that my two local Nissan dealers want $450-$550 (parts & labor) to replace the water pump! Plus, due to its location, if the water pump does fail, it could very easily leak water into your oil. My advice, while you're in there--replace it--$80-$90 is very cheap insurance.

Good wrenching to everyone!

Last edited by 07Nissan; 11-07-2011 at 03:10 PM.
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  #35  
Old 11-16-2011, 04:26 PM
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Anyone have tools j48761 and j50246 for sale?cannot locate any to purchase now
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  #36  
Old 12-06-2011, 01:19 PM
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Hey Guys
I live in Wisconsin and am going to do this work in Arkansas at my Dad's shop here in a few weeks, so I'm trying to get everything I need ahead of time.

Is there any kind of gasket set for the timing chain cover or any o-rings that I will have to replace. If so did you guys who have done the repair just buy timing chain cover gasket set that is all inclusive? If not does RTV high temp sealant alone seal this all back up?
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  #37  
Old 12-07-2011, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogballjim View Post
Hey Guys
I live in Wisconsin and am going to do this work in Arkansas at my Dad's shop here in a few weeks, so I'm trying to get everything I need ahead of time.

Is there any kind of gasket set for the timing chain cover or any o-rings that I will have to replace. If so did you guys who have done the repair just buy timing chain cover gasket set that is all inclusive? If not does RTV high temp sealant alone seal this all back up?
Highly recommend getting a copy of the Nissan Service Manual (check eBay) and Nissan's Tech Bulletin NTB09-128 before starting this project. NTB09-128 has a list of all the parts (and Kent-Moore special tools J-50246 & J-48761) necessary to do the job. FWIW, there is no gasket set for the timing chain cover; however, there are a few o-rings that are supposed to be replaced. The service manual explains in detail where to place the gasket sealant on the timing chain cover prior to installing it. I used Permatex Ultra-Black. Good luck!
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  #38  
Old 12-08-2011, 05:18 PM
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I would also recommend that you use a camera to document your disassembly and to review what others have done so that you have a sucessful repair.
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  #39  
Old 12-09-2011, 07:44 AM
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Hey Guys
Thanks so much for all the helpful information. You all have done lots to make this much simpler for me. Happy Holidays.
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  #40  
Old 12-19-2011, 10:28 AM
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Hello,
I have an 05 PF that has 125k on it and has been whinning for about 2000 miles.
Shame so many are having this problem, but these posts are a great resource.
I am planning on making this repair myself and am looking for info on how to insure I am at TDC on cyl number 1. Once I get that accomplished, is this where I lock the crankshaft in place? How do I utilize the marks that are on the new chains to set the timimg?
Thanks for any help.
jVB
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  #41  
Old 12-19-2011, 11:59 AM
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Default timing tensioner reply

Hello,
I have an 05 PF that has 125k on it and has been whinning for about 2000 miles.
Shame so many are having this problem, but these posts are a great resource.
I am planning on making this repair myself and am looking for info on how to insure I am at TDC on cyl number 1. Once I get that accomplished, is this where I lock the crankshaft in place? How do I utilize the marks that are on the new chains to set the timimg?
Thanks for any help.
jVB


Good Questions:

First, make sure that you have the factory CD shop manual and TSB. The manual has diagrams showing the index marks (keyways and marks on the sprockets/gears) that index to the colored chain links. As I recall, the secondary gear marks were on the back side of the gears, so that you could not see them once installed. You may want to manually rotate the engine once the cover is off to realign the old chain index marks to make sure that everything is straight. For TDC, I removed the valve covers and aligned the cam lobes. Remember, # 1 cylinder is on the passenger side. Also, the crankshaft pulley timing mark aligns to thje mark on the fan pulley housing, again on the passenger side of the engine. Finally, once you are on TDC, go ahead and lock the flywheel into place.

good luck.



.
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  #42  
Old 12-20-2011, 11:17 AM
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I do have those documents,, thanks a lot for your help..
I'll be tackling this after the holidays.
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  #43  
Old 12-20-2011, 11:26 AM
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one other important note: If you have not done this, remove the serpintine belt to see if the whine is still there. The alternator and/or idler pulley/ or other auxillaries can mimic the same sound.
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  #44  
Old 12-20-2011, 12:18 PM
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Got all my parts in this week, got the CD repair manual and the TSB. I'm set to go on the repair next week. Thanks guys for all the help you have given along the way on this. Could not have done it with out all these helps and hints.
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  #45  
Old 12-20-2011, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeveebee View Post
Hello,
I have an 05 PF that has 125k on it and has been whinning for about 2000 miles.
Shame so many are having this problem, but these posts are a great resource.
I am planning on making this repair myself and am looking for info on how to insure I am at TDC on cyl number 1. Once I get that accomplished, is this where I lock the crankshaft in place? How do I utilize the marks that are on the new chains to set the timimg?
Thanks for any help.
jVB
If you choose not to remove the intake plenum and valve covers (follow steps in NTB09-128; less work this way), suggest using the large pictorial in the service manual that shows the correct position for the crankshaft and primary/secondary timing chain/sprockets when it's at TDC on cylinder #1. FWIW, this pictorial was on page EM-174 of the 2007 Nissan Frontier Service Manual (.pdf version). I would not recommend using the pictorial that shows TDC using only the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley. This was off approx. 20-30 degrees when I tried this method (even when rotated 360 deg). In any case, you should have reduced/minimal tension on both secondary timing chains when you find TDC for cylinder #1. If either chain has significant tension, you're in the wrong position. Caution, each engine can have different colored timing marks painted on the various subassemblies, so you can't count on a particular color code to use (this includes the new, replacement timing chains). Bottom line, make ABSOLUTELY sure you put the new timing chains back in the same, EXACT position as the old/previous chains. To do this use whatever system you feel comfortable with to include painting your own timing marks. And, yes, once you find cylinder #1 TDC, lock the flywheel in place with the J-48761 tool for the remainder of the job. Good luck!

You might find some of the pictures in this thread helpful:

http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/front...-frontier.html
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