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FYI/DIY: Timing Chain Tensioner Whine VQ40 repair Forums > > FYI/DIY: Timing Chain Tensioner Whine VQ40 repair FYI/DIY: Timing Chain Tensioner Whine VQ40 repair
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  #16  
Old 03-22-2011, 06:19 AM
snuttypants
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im at the point of pulling the cover off, any tips and advice on how to get the thing off w/o damaging the cover?
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  #17  
Old 03-22-2011, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkmengineering View Post
This is for all of your DIY's: Don't be afraid of this. I just replaced the timing chains and tensioners on my 05 CC 4x4 that currently has 115k miles. I have had the whine from about the 35k mark and finally decided to fix it since I do long hauls and was afraid of breaking down in the middle of nowhere. I am not a mechanic or auto technician but I was able to do all of the work myself . The project took a total of 12 working hours spread out over 3 days. I took my time, took lots of photos, and fixed a few other things while I had it apart. Although it was time consuming, the replacement was straight forward. This is basically how I did it:

1. I have the CD shop manual and printed all off the necessary pages for reference. (timing chain cover and chain removal/install)
2. Copy of the NTB 09-128 bulletin
3. I purchased the 2 Kent Moore service tools needed, and you do need them!!! (Flywheel lock and tensioner clamp). I will be listing these 2 once used items on EBay at a later date.
4. Pre-ordered the parts listed on the NTB
5. Purchased additional parts including the primary timing chain, tensioner arm, water pump (just in case), and valve cover gaskets.
6. Pressure washed the engine to get as much of the grime and oil off.
7. Followed the disassembly procedure in the manual.
8. Once the timing cover was off, I manually rotated the engine until the index marks on the old timing chain lined up with the marks on the gears. ( I had to rotate it counter clockwise about 3 times for it to line up)
9. I locked the engine in place from rotating, compressed and locked the primary tensioner (the overtravel clip has to be moved while compressing)
removed the tensioner arm and chain.
10. Important!! Use a cresent wrench on the camshafts for support and a long handled ratchet/breaker bar to loosen the cam gear bolts. Do not use an Impact gun.
11. I used a grease pencil to premark the old chains and gears just in case something slipped. The new chains have blue, copper and gold colored links for indexing. Remove and replace one secondary chain at a time.
12. Compress the secondary tensioner shoes using the special tool and replace with the new shoes.
13. Follow the cover reassembly procedures.

Things to look out for:
1. Make sure that you have a proper tool set. Especially 10, 12, and 14mm universals. Metric allen drives (not wrenches) 24" or longer extensions for the power steering/alternator bracket.
2. Remove the right front fender protector and skid plate. makes the work a lot easier. You do not have to remove the radiator. Just drain the coolant.
3. To remove the water pipe that goes through the timing cover, use a long-long nose plier to remove the spring clamp towards the pipe, use a long dull, thin flat screw driver to gently break the seal to seperate pipe from the hose, try not to twist it too much.
4. Do not remove the crankshaft pulley bolt until the pulley is ready to come off. The pulley can fall off on its own and it will hurt in the pocket if it hits the cement.
5. I spent 3 hours carefully cleaning off all of the silicone sealer from all of the surfaces. I place rags/towels over the valve train, spark plug tubes, intake ports, and inside the oil pan where it was open from the cover. I counted the number of rags/towels that I used to make sure that I did not leave anything in the engine.
6. The long bolt on the oil pan cannot be removed because of the rack and pinion. Don't worry about it. Just make sure that it is clean.
6. Tap the dowel pins into the cover per the manual.
7. I prefitted the cleaned cover with no seals/sealer on to the engine and laid out the bolts. Remember, once the silicone sealer is applied, you have X amount of time before it sets up. I used permatex Hi-Temp RTV Black.
8. You have to reset (tap) the power steering bracket spacer and alternator bushing otherwise it will not fit.
9. I repaired my leaking windshield washer resiviour and cleaned the MAF and flow meter while they were out. Because I was careful, had a clean work area (outside), wore disposable nitrile gloves, and made sure that gasket material did not fall into the engine, I did not change the oil. I will change it in 1k miles.

Engine started and ran great on the first crank. No leaks and the engine is now very quiet.

Good luck. It was for me.

Check out the photos
This is a great discription of how to perform this repair. Just for information maybe useful is the reason for the flywheel stopper is to illiminate the removal of the valve covers. As the procedure in the TSB states. Me personally finds it more comforting with removing the valve covers but warranty only allows 4.6 hrs for repair. I hope this adds to your post. Again great job and care in your repair.
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  #18  
Old 09-28-2011, 06:40 PM
OHNismo06 OHNismo06 is offline
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I can't seem to get tool J48761 to fit correctly. Nissan Service Manual for my 2006 Nismo 4 x4 4 4.0L states to use too J-44716. Not sure but looks like I'll have to take the valve covers off now even though it would be much easier to have correct tool.
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  #19  
Old 09-29-2011, 06:33 AM
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the j48761 should fit into the bell housing inspection plate area once the cover is removed. the locking allen bolt hole is slotted to allow for some play. you may have to rotate the engine so that the flywheel gear teeth will align with the cut outs on the tool.

let me know if there is anything else

good luck and take care

rkmengineering
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  #20  
Old 09-29-2011, 11:12 AM
OHNismo06 OHNismo06 is offline
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Thank you thank you thank you..rkmengineering with your help I was able to find the bell housing cover and locate the flywheel flex plate. The J-48761 tool worked perfect then and I was finally able to get the crankshaft (and hopefully cam shaft sprocket bolts) bolt off. If someone will be doing this for themselves and needs the tool when i'm finished just pm me and i'll work with you.

Great write up. It has been extremely tough so far, but I saw your thread and you convinced me I could do it. Now working on making sure the timing is confirmed right @ TDC.

Last edited by OHNismo06; 09-29-2011 at 03:15 PM.
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  #21  
Old 09-29-2011, 06:34 PM
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glad it worked out. the tool that was orginally listed in the service manual I believe was to lock the engine from the starter mount. one other thing, go ahead and remove the valve covers and use a cresent wrench on the camshafts to loosen the timing chain bolts (see the original thread) with a breaker bar. I do not recommend using an impact wrench. remember, the dealer is doing it for money in the time allowed. you are doing it because you want it done right.

rkmengineering
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  #22  
Old 10-15-2011, 04:34 PM
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I was doing this repair, but when I tried to remove the water pump the mounting ears snapped off when I turned the M8 screws. They never even turned hard, they just snapped. Am I totally screwed. Ow? How do I get the pump out now that the two tabs are broken?
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  #23  
Old 10-16-2011, 11:57 AM
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hi there

sorry to hear about that. 2 questions: Is this Quest or Frontier, and it is the water pump that is gear driven off of the primary timing chain. If yes to the Frontier and pump, then there should be nothing holding or supporting the pump. just attach a clamping device such as a gear puller and gently wiggle it out. There are 2 "O" rings on the pump and they are different sizes. One has a white paint mark on it. (see service manual)

Good luck and keep us posted.

rkmengineering
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  #24  
Old 10-17-2011, 06:27 PM
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I got the water pump out. It looks like whoever installed the pump put liquid gasket or silicone on the o-rings.
A little "negotiating" with a chisel and hammer broke it loose and then it came right out.
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  #25  
Old 10-18-2011, 09:57 AM
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Thanks so much for posting this. I'm about 5K out of warranty (65K) and it doesn't sound like Nissan is going to cover this repair. I drive once or twice per year from Wisconsin to Arkansas (about a 900 mile trip.) I noticed you do long hauls and waited a while on repairing yours. Do you know if the tensioners will hold up most of the time long term, do they seem to get louder or worse with wear? Just wanting to try and make it to next summer and not have to change mine out during the upcoming Wisconsin winter. Thanks so very much for your detailed post. I saves me a LOT of research online.
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  #26  
Old 10-18-2011, 08:05 PM
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I waited until 80k to change mine. The chain had worn completely through the plastic and was hitting the metal underneath. The metal looks pretty hard. There was no visible damage to the chain. It was still making a whining noise when I took it apart. I would guess that you would.have to chew up the chain before it would fail. I would expect that to make a lot more noise before it failed.
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  #27  
Old 10-18-2011, 09:10 PM
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Thanks so much for the input. I would think you are right about that. Hate to know this is such a problem for so many and was never recalled by Nissan. But I'm glad to know that it seems to be able to last so long before wearing down. Did yours start whining fairly early on, as far as mileage goes I mean?

Thanks again for taking time to post this. Very helpful stuff.
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  #28  
Old 11-07-2011, 05:14 AM
OHNismo06 OHNismo06 is offline
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Default Timing Chain Replacement_UPDATE

Just thought I would post my response to a member for all those who may be thinking of replacing the timing chain tenionser shoes themselves.

There are also some good write ups on clubfrontier.org about changing the tensioner shoes.

It took me a long long time but I would estimate if you start until you stopped it would take a "first timer" about 8 hours min. My good friend who is a nissan tech who has done this 210+ times now said it takes him at least 5-6 hours. Nissan warranty services states it should take about 4.5 hours. But my tech said that only happened once.

After completed the truck runs perfect and quite. Funny thing is though the main "whining" noise wasn't even coming from the timing chain tensioner shoes even though they were toast...(look at link below for pics)..it was coming from the alternator!!! After I replaced the shoes I still had whine...replaced the belt tensioner pulley, not it...then replaced the belt idler pulley, still not it. finally after using a mechanics stethoscope isolated noise to alternator!! Be extra sure to check alternator first!! I've owned many vehicles over the past 30+ years and have never heard an alternator that "whined" like that. I assumed the bearings were shot. Replaced with rebuilt Beck/Arnley one for $154. Now truck is super quite. I couldn't even here it running about 20 yards away!

The actual cost of the parts only needed (not special tools) was less than $100. I went ahead and replaced with new serp belt too. The tensioner shoes themselves, which is really only what needs to be replaced is less than $20. Each shoe is $3.50, plus new RTV. You can replace the chains if you feel they need it.

I can tell you that I went about it the wrong way and completely ignore RKMengineer's advice and tried to hold the camshaft while breaking loose the crankshaft bolt. BIG MISTAKE!!! I busted off the camshaft timing gear right off the camshaft!! Cost my and extra $775 in parts. Plus lots more time. Don't be tempted to hold camshaft with wrench.. Get the correct tool to hold the flywheel ring gear stop. Or you could old school it and put lay breaker bar against frame and bump the starter to crack crankshaft bolt loose. (this is how most people do it still). After breaking off camshaft gear and camshaft I went ahead and ordered special tools. Made job of breaking loose crankshaft bolt super easy!!!!


Good luck and please feel free to email or even call me with any questions and I'll give you the run down.


I actually replaced the primary and both secondary timing chains. I really don't think it was necessary as my chains still appeared to be just fine. The chains do stretch a bit and maybe that is what you are hearing coming from the passenger side of the top of the timing cover. It's either that or the chain itself slapping against something. This would be happening if the tensioner shoes are worn out like mine. Did you see the pics? The shoes were toast and not even guiding the chain. And you can see the groves left on the chain tensioner metal plunger caused by the chain eating through the plastic and contacting metal. Not good.

If using old chains be sure to mark chain good on all timing marks. The good thing about using new chains is that the timing links on the chain are marked with black links making timing it much easier.

About the water pump: I did not change mine. It has always worked fine for me and I felt no reason to change it out just because I could. If it ever does fail in the future you can always get it out very easy by just removing the little black plastic cover on the front timing chain cover. This is a super easy repair when/if needed.

I would have it done sooner than later especially since you are hearing a clicking sound coming from that area and not try to wait like me. My tensioner shoes have obviously been worn down a while for sure. Probably at about 85K when started to notice whine originally. Many people have had problems with them much, much sooner than that. I think it all depends on how often and what type of oil you use. I've always went with synthetic oil every 3-5K.

Again, just contact me with any more questions. I learned a bunch while doing this repair and am more than happy to share my experiences.

PICS LINK:
http://s1082.photobucket.com/albums/...an%20Troubles/

Last edited by OHNismo06; 11-07-2011 at 05:18 AM.
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  #29  
Old 11-07-2011, 06:13 AM
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Default Tools?

Hi

Thanks first so very much for all the info. you shared because I'd probably have done just what you did to your camshaft. Very detailed post and it is much appreciated.

I'm having a hard time finding the tools online for this. Are the "special" tools needed just the two camshaft pins I see in the pics and a lock for the fly wheel? And do you happen to have a link to where you can purchase these tools. Thanks again for all the help.

Jim
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  #30  
Old 11-07-2011, 06:56 AM
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Default tensioner shoe replacement addendum 2

to all that are planning to do this: Again,don't be afraid of this!. It is not that difficult. Just make sure that you take your time and that you have all of the proper tools and manuals. Most importantly, read and follow up on what others are doing or not doing. Their input is critical as to the success of this project.

A couple of items to clarify from the last few posts:

1. Before starting this, remove the serpintine belt to see if the "whine" is still there. If not, then it is most likely something off the auxillary drives See thread from "nissan07".

2. Per the manual, I used a wrench on the camshafts to remove the "CAMSHAFT BOLTS" not the "CRANKSHAFT BOLT". The flywheel lock tool is used for 3 purposes.
A. To lock the crankshaft in place to prevent rotation of the engine.
B. To support the camshafts via the timing chains so that the "CAMSHAFT BOLTS" can be loosened and removed without removing the valve covers. (I elected not to do this and removed the covers so that I would not stress the timing chain components).
C. To support the 'CRANKSHAFT" so that the "CRANKSHAFT BOLT" can be loosened and removed.

Thanks again for everyones' feedback.

rkmengineering
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