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FYI/DIY: Timing Chain Tensioner Whine VQ40 repair Forums > > FYI/DIY: Timing Chain Tensioner Whine VQ40 repair FYI/DIY: Timing Chain Tensioner Whine VQ40 repair
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Frontier Nissan Frontier/HB/Truck Discussion Forum

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  #226  
Old 11-19-2016, 03:33 PM
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smj999smj smj999smj is offline
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I would rate it about an "8." It's not what I would consider an easy job. Warranty time to replace the upper chains and tensioner fit is around 4 hours. The first time I did one on my 06 Pathfinder, it took about 8 hours, but I did not have the ring stopper tool and I also replaced the radiator. Because I didn't have the ring gear stopper, I had to remove the upper plenum and valve cover gaskets. Now, keep in mind I'm a former Nissan tech, had a fully equipped shop with lifts and air tools at my disposal. A lot of time is wasted cleaning the RTV sealant off of the parts. Instead of the 3M ThreeBond sealant mentioned in the TSB, I recommend Permatex Ultra Grey Rigid High Torque sealant in a caulk tube to be used with a caulking gun. You are going to be laying down a lot of sealant in the front cover and this makes it a lot easier! Also, if you are doing more than is stated in the TSB, such as replacing the water pump, thermostat and other parts like guides and tensioners, it will add more time to the job.
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  #227  
Old 02-27-2017, 09:08 AM
bender-offender bender-offender is offline
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Hello, I'm working on this job right now on my 2007 Xterra and badly need some help.

I replaced the secondary chains and plastic guides, and the primary chain. I put it all back together then tried to start the engine and it wouldn't start. I assumed the timing was off so I took it all apart again. I think the passenger side exhaust cam is off by a tooth or two. When properly aligning this cam, where is a reference on the engine where it should line? If none, should the key-notch be parallel to the intake cam's marking?

Thank you for the help
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  #228  
Old 02-27-2017, 05:22 PM
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mpe235 mpe235 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bender-offender View Post
Hello, I'm working on this job right now on my 2007 Xterra and badly need some help.

I replaced the secondary chains and plastic guides, and the primary chain. I put it all back together then tried to start the engine and it wouldn't start. I assumed the timing was off so I took it all apart again. I think the passenger side exhaust cam is off by a tooth or two. When properly aligning this cam, where is a reference on the engine where it should line? If none, should the key-notch be parallel to the intake cam's marking?

Thank you for the help
As long as the links on all 3 chains line up to the marks on the gears the timing should be ok. Make sure you are using the correct marks for the cams. One side uses the dots and the other uses the lines.
( for the secondary chains)
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  #229  
Old 02-27-2017, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bender-offender View Post
Hello, I'm working on this job right now on my 2007 Xterra and badly need some help.

I replaced the secondary chains and plastic guides, and the primary chain. I put it all back together then tried to start the engine and it wouldn't start. I assumed the timing was off so I took it all apart again. I think the passenger side exhaust cam is off by a tooth or two. When properly aligning this cam, where is a reference on the engine where it should line? If none, should the key-notch be parallel to the intake cam's marking?

Thank you for the help
As long as the links on all 3 chains line up to the marks on the gears the timing should be ok. Make sure you are using the correct marks for the cams. One side uses the dots and the other uses the lines.
( for the secondary chains) Look at post #1 it has some very good pictures that should help you.
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  #230  
Old 02-28-2017, 07:02 AM
bender-offender bender-offender is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpe235 View Post
As long as the links on all 3 chains line up to the marks on the gears the timing should be ok. Make sure you are using the correct marks for the cams. One side uses the dots and the other uses the lines.
( for the secondary chains) Look at post #1 it has some very good pictures that should help you.
Thank you! I was aware of this but wasn't sure if it was a solid way to identify that the cams are in time. Good to know it is solid.
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  #231  
Old 03-01-2017, 08:36 AM
bender-offender bender-offender is offline
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Please, I BADLY need help with this project. I have a 2007 Xterra.

In short:
I replaced the secondary tensioner shoes/guides ala the bulletin, put everything back together and had no start. Pulled everything off again and readjusted the timing, put everything back together and still no start.

Long version:
when I was putting the primary chain back on the engine, the passenger side cam gears were one link counter-clockwise off the primary chain markings. I attempted to nudge the cams clockwise a small amount but one of the valves must have been closing and knocked the cams far forward. NOTE: the secondary chain has been on this whole time. So, not knowing at the time, I put a wrench on the intake cam and turned them counter-clockwise back to line up the timing marks. Afterwards, everything looked lined up and I proceeded to put the engine back together.

When the engine didn't start I assumed the timing was off and tore everything apart again. Unsure what the cause was, I had a friend come over and we tried figuring this out. We talked to a mechanic friend who said the problem was that I turned the cams counter-clockwise which messed with the VVT. He said to offset the crank from TDC and rotate the cams clockwise until the timing is back at TDC which should kind of "reset" the VVT in the cams (again, intake and exhaust cams still connected). So my friend and I rotated both side cams one time (360 degrees) back to TDC and then put the crank back at TDC (had to go counter-clockwise so no pistons struck the valves) and proceeded to line everything back up. We turned the the engine by hand and it seemed nice and smooth. However, once again, the engine won't start. Is there something we did wrong? Is the timing still off somehow? Or could it be an unrelated problem like spark plugs or fuel line?

Thank you for all the help!
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  #232  
Old 03-01-2017, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bender-offender View Post
Please, I BADLY need help with this project. I have a 2007 Xterra.

In short:
I replaced the secondary tensioner shoes/guides ala the bulletin, put everything back together and had no start. Pulled everything off again and readjusted the timing, put everything back together and still no start.

Long version:
when I was putting the primary chain back on the engine, the passenger side cam gears were one link counter-clockwise off the primary chain markings. I attempted to nudge the cams clockwise a small amount but one of the valves must have been closing and knocked the cams far forward. NOTE: the secondary chain has been on this whole time. So, not knowing at the time, I put a wrench on the intake cam and turned them counter-clockwise back to line up the timing marks. Afterwards, everything looked lined up and I proceeded to put the engine back together.

When the engine didn't start I assumed the timing was off and tore everything apart again. Unsure what the cause was, I had a friend come over and we tried figuring this out. We talked to a mechanic friend who said the problem was that I turned the cams counter-clockwise which messed with the VVT. He said to offset the crank from TDC and rotate the cams clockwise until the timing is back at TDC which should kind of "reset" the VVT in the cams (again, intake and exhaust cams still connected). So my friend and I rotated both side cams one time (360 degrees) back to TDC and then put the crank back at TDC (had to go counter-clockwise so no pistons struck the valves) and proceeded to line everything back up. We turned the the engine by hand and it seemed nice and smooth. However, once again, the engine won't start. Is there something we did wrong? Is the timing still off somehow? Or could it be an unrelated problem like spark plugs or fuel line?

Thank you for all the help!
There are two ground wires at the top of the timing cover. 6mm bolts with 10mm heads. Make sure they are both connected and tight.
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  #233  
Old 03-01-2017, 04:50 PM
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bennyb53 bennyb53 is offline
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1. I am assuming you've consulted the Engine Mechanical manual with regard to the project at hand and you followed procedures.

2. When you rotated the crankshaft 360 it does not mean completing the 360 your back at TDC. You may have to go around one more time. You cannot know that by simply rotating 360. So do this: Remove the #1 cylinder spark plug. Get a straight stick wood or metal that will fit into the plug hole and lower it until it reach the piston. Be sure its long enough so that when piston hits bottom you still can see the top of it. Have someone rotate the crank while you watch the stick go up and down. You can practice doing this until you feel confident enough knowing when piston hits bottom and reaching TDC. Check the alignment of the chain and make adjustment. good luck.
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  #234  
Old 03-01-2017, 05:30 PM
bender-offender bender-offender is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpe235 View Post
There are two ground wires at the top of the timing cover. 6mm bolts with 10mm heads. Make sure they are both connected and tight.
Thank you for the reply. Are these the connections on the drivers side of the timing cover? If so, I believe I never took those off, but I will check and make sure.
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  #235  
Old 03-01-2017, 05:36 PM
bender-offender bender-offender is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bennyb53 View Post
1. I am assuming you've consulted the Engine Mechanical manual with regard to the project at hand and you followed procedures.

2. When you rotated the crankshaft 360 it does not mean completing the 360 your back at TDC. You may have to go around one more time. You cannot know that by simply rotating 360. So do this: Remove the #1 cylinder spark plug. Get a straight stick wood or metal that will fit into the plug hole and lower it until it reach the piston. Be sure its long enough so that when piston hits bottom you still can see the top of it. Have someone rotate the crank while you watch the stick go up and down. You can practice doing this until you feel confident enough knowing when piston hits bottom and reaching TDC. Check the alignment of the chain and make adjustment. good luck.
Thank you for your response. Yes, I followed the FSM and I have a Chiltons manual.

I do understand that two rotations are needed for a complete cycle. What I did prior to manually roatating the cams was set everything at TDC for reference, then I turned everything 90 degrees from TDC so that no pistons were up while I rotated the cams. Once the cams were at TDC I roatated the crankshaft (without the primary chain on) backwards 90 degrees to TDC again, and then I put the primary chain back on.

Going back to my original post, was rotating the cams backwards what messed things up? If so, I only rotated the cams one revolution in the correct direction to TDC when I took everything apart the second time to try again. Should I have gone around a few times to reset the VVT in the cams? Or is one enough?

Also, I noticed the OP's crank at TDC was slightly to the right of the factory mark on the engine. I know he set TDC off the fan bracket/faux-water pump--is that the correct spot for TDC, or is it the mark on the inside of the timing case?

Thank you again for the help!

Last edited by bender-offender; 03-01-2017 at 05:43 PM.
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  #236  
Old 03-01-2017, 06:10 PM
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bennyb53 bennyb53 is offline
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Once you set #1 cylinder at TDC, you said you rotated the crank and cam 90 degrees so no piston were up. Is that covered in the manual. If I remember correctly, once #1 is set at TDC you are not to rotate the crankshaft or cam or it will alter the orientation. Just redo again and compare the position of cam as described in the manual.
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  #237  
Old 03-01-2017, 06:41 PM
bender-offender bender-offender is offline
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Thank you, Benny. I will try this again.
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  #238  
Old 12-02-2017, 11:59 AM
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I wonder if the plastic guides wear out into tiny pieces and get removed by oil filter or large chunks that end up in oil pan partially blocking oil intake.
Dropping the oil pan to check doesn't seem very fun.
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  #239  
Old 12-09-2017, 12:53 PM
0006 0006 is offline
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BTW, for those eligible.
https://topclassactions.com/lawsuit-...ction-lawsuit/
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  #240  
Old 01-05-2018, 02:47 PM
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Default Need some advice please...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Motocopter View Post
I'm taking a lunch break and contemplating continuing or having the truck towed to the dealer.

Progress through aligning #1 at TDC, blocking the flywheel on the left side engine with the access panel. I noticed the LB secondary chain either had slack or tension at the bottom run. Still wanting to verify TDC, I removed the block, pulled the #1 spark plug to observe the intake valve opening and closing while rotating the crank. Never saw any valve. So, I went with the slack on the bottom and reblocked the flywheel.

After at least ten crank rotations, I never got the exhaust cam locator pin/gear slot to align as shown in the manual (11 o'clock and 1 o'clock approx). So, I proceed to remove the primary chain tensioner. Loosened the clip, compressed the spring and inserted the yellow-handled pin. Good to go. Remove the tensioner. Not anticipating anything, I remove the upper primary chain guide. Loosened both bolts, removed the right one, and that's when I observed the right bank cams rotating as the chain slip about five teeth.

Now the only way out is to remove the valve cover. Hence, a lunch break.

The camera was with me, but a photo was never taken.

Have to think about this some more.

UPDATE: I've been able to solicit some VQ experienced help. I also picked-up a new primary chain to help with the timing since, as you know, the timing points are there.

Also, grabbed the second gallon of anti-freeze.

Maybe there is hope yet!

UPDATE: My help did a timing recovery for me. All chains, guides, and water pump have been replaced. Cover is on and all accessories mounted. Thanks for the bushing tip for the pwr steering bracket.

Throttle body, duct, radiator, fans, and shroud are still out. I'll need to change the oil after all. Add the anti-freeze, and wish me luck the engine runs. (still some apprehension regarding the cam timing)

Oh btw, who ever decided the number one cylinder is in the right bank out to have a talkin' to! 8-)
I'm a late bloomer and i guess so is the VQ40 in my Xterra....i'm just doing the timing chains now. Motocopter mentioned that his right bank cam jumped when he removed the secondary chains. I'm at this point in the repair now. I want to avoid removing the valve covers if possible. My question is...IF either of my cams jump, is there an "easy" way to recover without all the added work of removing the intake and valve covers? I noticed in one of his updates, it sounds like he had a buddy help get his timing recovered without removing valve covers. And Ditto to all who have contributed here....this is a great thread! Should be required reading for all of us Nissan do-it-yourselfers!
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