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#31
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#32
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Sorry to bring this topic back up again, but I am in dire need of help here. I also have a '00 Frontier 3.3l, so this thread seems perfect.
A few months back, my SES light was on, and the computer brought up the knock sensor and piston 6 was misfiring. A simple tune-up (and realization that the last time I had it serviced, someone didn't fully put in that last spark plug) fixed everything. No more misfiring, no more SES light. I passed inspection. The other day, after driving a bit, and warming up the engine, my truck would begin to sputter when I would accelerate. Before I could get it home, it would sputter at lower and lower RPM until it finally died. It didn't start again until the next morning, when the engine was at its coolest, and the SES light was back on. After about 10 minutes of driving, when the engine warmed back up, it did the same thing until it died. Not being that great of a mechanic, I went for the easiest solutions first. Bad gas. Drained it, and put high quality expensive stuff in, along with C-Foam. Same thing. Replaced the fuel filter. Same thing. Checked the fuel pump, and it's fine, but my engine obviously isn't getting enough gas. I took it to the mechanic to run it on the computer, and the knock sensor is the only thing it reads is wrong. The mechanic claims the KS controls the timing as well as fuel injection, and wants over $800 for parts and labor. I've looked around online, and everyone is saying the KS doesn't affect performance. My brother installed an engine in his car and left the KS out, and he said it didn't do anything. So, pardon for the life story, but is the knock sensor really my problem here? Or is there something else? |
#33
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Sorry to bring this topic back up again, but I am in dire need of help here. I also have a '00 Frontier 3.3l, so this thread seems perfect.
A few months back, my SES light was on, and the computer brought up the knock The other day, after driving a bit, and warming up the engine, my truck would begin to sputter when I would accelerate. Before I could get it home, it would sputter at lower and lower RPM until it finally died. It didn't start again until the next morning, when the engine was at its coolest, and the SES light was back on. After about 10 minutes of driving, when the engine warmed back up, it did the same thing until it died. Not being that great of a mechanic, I went for the easiest solutions first. Bad gas. Drained it, and put high quality expensive stuff in, along with C-Foam. Same thing. Replaced the fuel filter. Same thing. Checked the fuel pump, and it's fine, but my engine obviously isn't getting enough gas. I took it to the mechanic to run it on the computer, and the knock sensor is the only thing it reads is wrong. The mechanic claims the KS controls the timing as well as fuel injection, and wants over $800 for parts and labor. I've looked around online, and everyone is saying the KS doesn't affect performance. My brother installed an engine in his car and left the KS out, and he said it didn't do anything. So, pardon for the life story, but is the knock sensor really my problem here? Or is there something else? sensor and piston 6 was misfiring. A simple tune-up (and realization that the last time I had it serviced, someone didn't fully put in that last spark plug) fixed everything. No more misfiring, no more SES light. I passed inspection. Too bad for me that the last post hasn't been answered, because that's basically what I'm dealing with on my 99 Pathfinder ( KS code and violent sporadic bucking) no S.E.S. light though . It just took me over two days just for me to get the upper intake off, now that it's off, where is the knock sensor? If I had known that I could have relocated it, I would have tried that first. I wasted the first day trying to extract a stripped hex screw. Hex screws are a bad design for use on a futon, Why in the Hell would Nissan use hex screws anywhere on the engine? And what's with using screws on some of the brackets? Today I spent the day removing all of the hoses, vacuum lines and wires on the back of the upper intake manifold plenum, man those hose clips are hard to squeeze/reach. I guess it would have been better to cut / replace all of the hoses. Tomorrow I will spend the day locating the placement of the knock sensor. Thanks to the post on relocating the KS, I now know which wires to follow. I'm waaaay out of my league on this repair, the Haynes manual made it seem like there was nothing to it, they left out quite a few steps, like needing a 30mm wrench to remove the exhaust pipe (thingy). I just hope I'll be able to put it all back together. P.S. Can I re-use the gasket if I clean it up, or do I need a new one? Do I have to remove the lower intake? the book didn't mention anything about that, it just mentions that it's under the upper intake. Thanks. |
#34
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knock sensor location
it is under the intake manifold and yes it is a lot of work to replace.Personally i wouldnt have replaced mine except for the fact that it kept showing a trouble code which prevented me from get a smog certificate and of course being able to register my truck. I live in california and our smog laws are more stringent than the other states so i had no alternative.The faulty knock sensor never made a difference in how my truck ran and there was no difference after i replaced it except i was able to pass smog (this was not because of emissions but it showed as "check engine" and the trouble code)
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#35
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yes the lower intake must come off and you need new gaskets for the intake/head ive gotten by with re-using the upper-to-lower intake but dont recfomend it.the new knock sensor will come with a gasket so no worries.the sensor itself is attatched to the block in the valley under the intake (lower) with a single bolt thru the center of the sensor which looks roughly like a banjo
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#36
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B: the two grounds
Thank you for that input. I would like to go with B and check that those two grounds are clean and secure. Would you please tell me where they connect on the intake and how I can identify them? Thanks
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#37
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THANKS; I have that problem, but my engine is runing normail there is no vibrations nor making any noise. I will have to check the wires and see if they are making a good connection.
Aurelio (Rey) Reyes Cell (808) 375-0872 save MONEY on your electric bill www.reyesaur.joinambit.com Are you MONEY motivated check www.reyesaur.energy526.com the fastest growing company in the USA http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/38836762/ns/business-small_business/ |
#38
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THANKS
THANKS
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#39
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With 165000 miles is the knock sensor just something that is routinely just needs to be replaced OR CAN THERE BE SOMETHING WRONG WITH MOTOR
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#40
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i am wondering what year is this xterra mine is an 2002
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#41
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Knock Sensor Replacement + Misc parts
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Thank you all for posting on this site. Any help would be greatly appreciated! |
#42
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I just want to drop my $0.02 in here, if you have anywhere between 80k-120k on your truck, you have a knock sensor code, and truck is running like crap, not only do you need to replace the knock sensor, but you should also check your distributor.
My distributor puked out about the same time as the knock sensor. I replaced the knock sensor using the knock sensor relocation, and have not had a problem with it in 15k miles. I replaced the distributor last year in September. You will want to check this ASAP, because a failing or failed distributor can cause another fun problem that I am dealing with right now. (clogged Catalytic Converters) And clogged Cats do NOT have a cheap work around, especially on a 2004 California model. . . |
#43
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Thanks Opera Voice
Thanks Opera Voice! My truck is above 120k, so I will replace the distributor and related items while I am in there.
Best of luck to you on your cat converters. Quote:
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#44
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Have the distributor tested first.
If you have an OBD2 tester with life feed capability, you can test it yourself. My distributor was showing between 20-25 degrees of timing retardation (yup, my distributor was being retarded), which led me to my first clue that there was an issue. Also, if you have a timing light, you can check the timing marks. They are not normally dead on with the 3.3L engine, but with a bad distributor, your timing marks can jump around all over the place. |
#45
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I have an 04 xterra with 160,000 plus on it just got knock sensor how hard is it to change?
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knock, location, sensor |
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