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Knock Sensor replacement/snapped #4 lower plenum stud Forums > > Knock Sensor replacement/snapped #4 lower plenum stud Knock Sensor replacement/snapped #4 lower plenum stud
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Frontier Nissan Frontier/HB/Truck Discussion Forum

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  #1  
Old 05-24-2009, 05:18 PM
holyjaguar holyjaguar is offline
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1989 Frontier
 
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Default Knock Sensor replacement/snapped #4 lower plenum stud

Hello,all,...Ummm,I replaced the knock sensor on my `03 Frontier Crew Cab,what an adventure,just getting to it,and,in the process of putting all Humpty`s pieces back together,I have snapped the stud on #4 lower intake plenum(of the 4 bolts,and, 4 studs).With the intake on,(lower),I have a little more than 1/4 inch,of stud in view.My Questions,1;should I try to back stud out with manifold on?,I`d rather not take that manifold back off,but....,and,2;where to find the replacement stud.I think My torque wrench is bad,as this is the second vehicle,I`ve snapped a stud on,using it.Only other problem I`ve Ever had,was an `o ring in A.C.,3 times,all under warranty. Thanks for any,help,The Wife,and,the Dogs,Await Their Chariot.
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Last edited by holyjaguar; 05-25-2009 at 03:04 PM. Reason: Adding Picture
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  #2  
Old 05-25-2009, 03:51 AM
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mpe235 mpe235 is offline
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If you can get vise grips on it you will probably be able to get it out. A dealer is the best place to find a replacement.
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  #3  
Old 05-25-2009, 06:02 AM
holyjaguar holyjaguar is offline
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Default Knock Sensor Replacement/Snapped #4 lower plenum Stud

Thanks,mpe235,...,I`ve taken lower plenum back off,and,will be trying to back that stud out.Also going to back out,and,replace # 3,as it is hour glassing, I don`t think it can take another Torqueing.Thanks for the reply,... Mace...
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Old 06-05-2009, 11:10 AM
Darkpath
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Noticed your thread here - while I don't have a frontier -(I have a 350Z) I do know how to find parts. I think if you wander around on this page you'll find the stud you are looking for...
140 Manifold :: Engine Mechanical :: Genuine Nissan Parts :: Frontier Parts (D22U) 1998-2004 :: CourtesyParts.com

On a guess I think it is part number: 14003Q found on the page above... pay particular attention that there are intakes shown for the 4 and 6 cylinder engines..

Hope this helped...
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Old 06-09-2009, 10:42 PM
mike2u
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Please let me/lots of viewers know if you get any improvement in your MPG after the sensor replacement. I have an 03 crew cab that the code shows KS high input. I'm not to sure I want to take the adventure unless it is really necessary. The KS replacement seems to get the most attention of all the issues on this forum. Keep us informed of your results in MPG.
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  #6  
Old 11-16-2009, 02:56 PM
RobSkydiver
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Exclamation Snaaaaaaaaaapped lower intake stud, please send help!

I just snapped the lower intake stud on my 1999 Nissan Pathfinder just as HolyJaguar did, only lower and very jaggedly ! I spent $80 on a torque wrench, what a waste! I would have been better off without it. This was the first time that I used a torque wrench. I evenly torqued slow and steady from bolt #1 - #8 stepping up the foot pounds in small increments as stated in the Haynes repair manual. I never heard the "click" that the wrench is supposed to make or "felt the free play" as mentioned in the directions. I was nervously thinking, if I go any further the bolt will snap,then "SNAAAAAP"!
Thanks to the post above from DarkPath, I know where to find a replacement, but should I ?
? # 1-Will the engine leak if I don't or will further damage occur if I don't fix it?
? # 2-What about the new gaskets that I just put on, can I re-use them? if so, do I now have to use RTV silicone on them? (I don't know if this matters, but the engine wasn't stated up, obviously).
? # 3-How are these bolts fastened to the block? Are they screwed in?
? # 4-Should I forget about using the torque wrench again and just make it good n' tight?
? # 5-Are the Lbs. specs crucial?
Thanks!
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  #7  
Old 11-17-2009, 04:29 AM
Darkpath
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobSkydiver View Post
I just snapped the lower intake stud on my 1999 Nissan Pathfinder just as HolyJaguar did, only lower and very jaggedly ! I spent $80 on a torque wrench, what a waste! I would have been better off without it. This was the first time that I used a torque wrench. I evenly torqued slow and steady from bolt #1 - #8 stepping up the foot pounds in small increments as stated in the Haynes repair manual. I never heard the "click" that the wrench is supposed to make or "felt the free play" as mentioned in the directions. I was nervously thinking, if I go any further the bolt will snap,then "SNAAAAAP"!
Thanks to the post above from DarkPath, I know where to find a replacement, but should I ?
? # 1-Will the engine leak if I don't or will further damage occur if I don't fix it?
? # 2-What about the new gaskets that I just put on, can I re-use them? if so, do I now have to use RTV silicone on them? (I don't know if this matters, but the engine wasn't stated up, obviously).
? # 3-How are these bolts fastened to the block? Are they screwed in?
? # 4-Should I forget about using the torque wrench again and just make it good n' tight?
? # 5-Are the Lbs. specs crucial?
Thanks!

First off I am surprised by the number of bolts that folks here are reporting 'snapped off'. Makes me wonder if the specs called for in the replacement procedure (no one has actually stated them) are misrepresented in foot pounds vice inch pounds. I believe this needs to be verified, as the upper and lower plenums are components of a somewhat 'low' pressure air system - vice a fluid system that would leak more easily.

Having said that, and in reply to the rest of your inquiry: I would ask How is it running now that you have it back together and the single bolt is not doing its job as intended? If the rest of your effort went smoothly, and the truck is running smoothly as well, I don't know that I would disassemble it again.

You've remarked on a number of issues that you would be concerned about it you attempted to removed the broken stud. I would think your concerns are valid... I mean RTV and related gasket sealants were Not recommended during the original repair procedure, and for that reason alone I would Not disassemble & drill out the bolt, if it was not causing an issue after reassembly, only to reassemble it and add foreign sealant materials to the plenum surfaces - in an attempt to save a gasket.

Further, You made a valid point to other readers when you suggested 'Snugging' vice spec torque occured to you during the procedure. Since we are questioning the specs at this point, and too questioning the reliability of these studs under supposed spec torque value, why not torque as close as you can 'safely' manage... Case in point: Lets say the spec was 80 ft lbs... But you were hearing other folks complaining that the stud was breaking trying to torque to spec. I would then see how well I managed the torque to say 70-75 ft lbs paying close attention to 'sound and feel' as I torqued each stud. If I heard stress or felt flex in the stud during torqueing, my concern (like your's) would be is this thing going to snap! So a good torque on this seemingly low pressure air system with a valid torque to 70-75 ft lbs (95% of spec) is better than 80 ft lbs all around, IF it means you avoid a snapped stud which we all know is a PITA.

If it were me - I would leave it 'as is' for the time being - and closely monitor performance. If you feel it really needs reworking, remove the broken stud and redo the work step by step as close as possible to the procedure you started with, with one exception. Purchase BRAND NEW studs to install the lower plenum with. My guess is that heat soak from normal operation over the years has changed the properties of the studs and has made them brittle and unreliable. The torque value in the procedure is assuming the bolts at New condition, not 10 year old 'stressed' condition.

Hope this helps...

Last edited by Darkpath; 11-17-2009 at 04:32 AM.
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  #8  
Old 09-12-2014, 07:01 PM
holyjaguar holyjaguar is offline
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5 years Later,I would say it did little to improve the fuel mileage,sorry for the delay in getting back to the thread.You will want to make sure the KS error is not caused by a pin hole leak,( causing engine to Knock),....,just sayin. Thanks for this forum!!
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