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Altima '03 High idle after a routine throttle body cleanup Forums > > Altima '03 High idle after a routine throttle body cleanup Altima '03 High idle after a routine throttle body cleanup
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  #1  
Old 03-26-2008, 07:46 AM
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Cool Altima '03 High idle after a routine throttle body cleanup

My '03 Altima lost the regulated idle RPM after I cleaned the throttle body bore. It is running around 1300RPM in neutral. I have been reading that after a routine cleanup of this part, it may be necessary to make the CPU "re-learn" the correct RPM by clearing codes and engine on/off, accelerator pedal in-out routine. Can I perform a DTC code clear without a code scanner tool (unplug battery, etc?) and/or perform the necessary CPU learn routine using a normal "garage toolbox"?

Thanks
Rick
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  #2  
Old 03-26-2008, 09:47 AM
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Yes.

Idle Air Volume Learning Procedure
  1. Perform "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning" .
    1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
    2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
    3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
    4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
    5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
  2. Perform "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" .
    1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
    2. Turn ignition switch “ON”.
    3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
      Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.
  3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
  4. Check that all items listed under the topic “PREPARATION” (previously mentioned) are in good order.
  5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
  6. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
  7. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
    1. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
    2. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
  8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turned ON.
  9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL goes off.
  10. Start engine and let it idle.
  11. Wait 20 seconds.
  12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
  13. If idle speed and ignition timing are not within the specification, the result will be incomplete. In this case, more test needs to be done.
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  #3  
Old 03-26-2008, 10:37 AM
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Thanks for your reply.

I still need some clarification on the steps you outline:

-First set of steps of ignition key on-off produce the "pedal release position learn".
-Second step of ignition key on-off produces the "closed valve positon learn".

I understand that both of the above steps are done with the accelerator pedal fully released.


Below is where I'm not sure of what exactly I should do:

"Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound".

Should I move the accelerator pedal (fully extend and release in-out) during the 10 seconds I am performing the closed valve position learn routine?

Also, should I clear all the DTC codes before I begin the process or will the CPU adjust itself following the updated data on a normal road course? If I need to clear codes, can these be cleared without the external use of a scanner tool?


Thanks for your time & advice
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  #4  
Old 03-28-2008, 10:42 AM
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Question

I guess I'll have to buy a code scanner to erase the DTC's then apply this fix.
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  #5  
Old 03-29-2008, 08:16 PM
Altimate_Suz
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Auto Zone will do that for you, but I'm still not sure you can this without a more advanced scanner... I was wondering too since I have to have this procedure done.
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  #6  
Old 03-29-2008, 09:20 PM
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I went to Autozone and they do have a very basic scanner for about $39.95 that will erase codes. It's either buying that or pay them the same amount to clear the codes. I'll probably buy it to erase the DTC's and post the results. Although I still believe there has to be another way to erase codes without spending. I got the Hayes manual for the Altima "1996~2004" and believe me I blew away $18 for nothing. It barely touches the subject on the '03 or '04 for that matter.....says it too complex to cover in the manual!
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  #7  
Old 03-30-2008, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
-First set of steps of ignition key on-off produce the "pedal release position learn".
-Second step of ignition key on-off produces the "closed valve positon learn".

I understand that both of the above steps are done with the accelerator pedal fully released.
Yes

Quote:
Should I move the accelerator pedal (fully extend and release in-out) during the 10 seconds I am performing the closed valve position learn routine?
You don't have to do nothing, just listing. You should be able to heard the throttle motor moving.
Quote:

I still believe there has to be another way to erase codes without spending.
Have you tried to disconnect the car battery?

Try disconnecting the car battery for about at least 30 minutes.
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  #8  
Old 03-30-2008, 12:24 PM
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Actually no, just for five minutes, also tried crossing the cables. I give it a try before anything else. I'll post the results.
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  #9  
Old 03-30-2008, 06:37 PM
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Left the battery unpluged for over three hours, engine light stiil on when engine running at 1300RPM, codes still there.
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  #10  
Old 03-31-2008, 05:58 AM
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You must clear all codes before you can preform any of the throttle position/ idle air-volume learn proceedures.
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  #11  
Old 04-04-2008, 04:09 PM
lgibby26
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Default Replaced Throttle Body

Hi. I had the throttle body cleaned. Didn't realize that the car had to relearn the settings. So I had the throttle body replaced. Well I followed the steps listed to get the idle rpm's down. My car was jerking all over the place. The problem I have now is that the check engine light is still on but my idle is great now. How do I get the light to go off?
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  #12  
Old 04-05-2008, 05:38 PM
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Ok....

Did all, still not working! Am I missing something? I'm begining to worry here...
  1. Perform "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning" .
  2. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released. - Done
  3. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds. - Done
  4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds. - Done
  5. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds. - Done
  6. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds. - Done
  7. Perform "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" .
  8. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
  9. Turn ignition switch “ON”. - Done
  10. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds. - Done
    Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound. - Very hard to hear anything at all.
  11. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature. - Done
  12. Check that all items listed under the topic “PREPARATION” (previously mentioned) are in good order.
  13. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds. - Done
  14. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds. - Done
  15. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
  16. Fully depress the accelerator pedal. - Done
  17. Fully release the accelerator pedal. - Done
  18. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turned ON. - Done (it did stop blinking to a steady on position)
  19. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL goes off. - I released the pedal as indicated but the MIL does not go off, stays on.
  20. Start engine and let it idle. - Done
  21. Wait 20 seconds. - Done
  22. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications. - Done, yet still it runs high (up and down uncontrolled)
Did the steps about seven times, engine cold/engine hot, same results.

:confused: Help! :confused:
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  #13  
Old 04-05-2008, 05:44 PM
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Forgot to mention....yes I cleared codes.
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  #14  
Old 04-10-2008, 06:18 AM
Steven Dukes
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Angry High Idle

Hey there, I am currently going through the same thing with my high idle. I took apart the throttle body and disconnected the harness to get to my rear spark plugs and figured I would do a entire cleaning of the TB. The whole relearn process might work. I have no luck yet but I am going back to recheck everything tonight and change my ignition coil on my 5th cylinder. What exactly did you do to your TB. Did you disconnect the harness to the TB? or TPS ? There is a way to to reposition the IACV and TPS. If you take it to the stealership they will do the Consult II system and charge you $100. What could be worse is that they would tell you to purchase a new TB because the IACV could be destroyed and is not sold seperatly. Best advise is to troubleshoot for vacuum leaks and check the position of the TPS or IACV. My idle realearn will work until I turn the car off after driving and restart,then its the same old S***.
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  #15  
Old 04-10-2008, 05:39 PM
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Hi

I cleaned the throttle body bore or inner wall that had accumulated a reasonable amount of debris or sludge. That was it. After that, I lost correct idle. It starts fine but the idle remains above 1500RPM, then it slides down to about 1400~1500 after warming up. Believe me, I have tried all the home mechanic tricks of the trade...nothing. I did the DTC clear code as described above with a hand scanner against the correct steps detailed for my year/model car. Still nothing. One thing though, Nissan service manual on electronic emission control (downloaded from this site's manual section) says to use a watch to maintain seconds within accuracy when performing these corrective measures. Like everybody else, I just count. I get the correct response from all the above steps except where the service light is supposed to turn off, it never does, no matter how many times I have done the routine, up-and -down cold or warm. Yes, my local Nissan dealer wants me bad, they looked at my car and then at me, then a $ervice quote to replace the throttle body. Has anybody seen the price they ask for the part alone? I am sure mine is in good working order, it does need to be calibrated.....but still trying on my own. I consider myself to be reasonably educated torwards working around engines and for a long time. This is a stupid electronic problem stopping me on using an otherwise mechanically perfect, good car! I cannot believe I have to turn my car in to a dealer so they can perform and charge me an obscene amount of money for something I can do myself.

To answer your other questions, I later unplugged, dismantled and re-built, yes rebuilt the throttle unit, it seems just perfect. The throttle blade reacts to a variable resister disc inside, which tells the CPU where the throttle blade is, adjusting accordingly along the other emission elements and components. I checked the resistance, it runs true and linear, no broken readings.

Good thing to have a second vehicle around, huh. If there are any different ideas/routines/....seeecccrrrreeettt Nissan procedures(?) on how to get this done out there in the home-mechanic-land PLEASE reply to this thread.

Thanks all
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