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Altima '03 High idle after a routine throttle body cleanup Forums > > Altima '03 High idle after a routine throttle body cleanup Altima '03 High idle after a routine throttle body cleanup
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  #16  
Old 04-14-2008, 05:37 AM
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AltimaPR AltimaPR is offline
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2003 Altima
2003 Nissan Altima 2.5
 
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Location: Puerto Rico
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I am about to give up and submit myself to master "darth-nissanservicecenter-vader". I have not been able to use this car reluctant on paying overpriced dealer services. My second quote was for $550.00. I know the electronics on my car are good. I cleaned the throttle bore with a paper towel, not even did I use liquid cleaner.

Question:

I've heard that this model/year car has updated programming available that would most probably fix my problem and from what I've read, it may be included under some sort of manufacturer service/warranty. Can someone tell me if this is true and/or if they have experienced this CPU update?
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  #17  
Old 04-14-2008, 07:54 PM
emancivic
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im experiencing the same problem on my cousins 04 2.5 altima, i have done this precedure and nothing, also did a precedure off of mitchell and nothing.... i will post any updates
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  #18  
Old 04-16-2008, 05:32 AM
lwalcott
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AltimaPR,
There is a reprogram that is part of a recall for your car. My 2003 Altima was having rough idle problems, so I took it in for service. They did the reprogram, recalls and cleaned the throttle body. They said it was all covered under the warranty even though my warranty had ran out. Must be an emissions warranty. But I must say after a couple thousand miles my car is starting to idle rough again.
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  #19  
Old 04-18-2008, 08:12 AM
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AltimaPR AltimaPR is offline
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2003 Nissan Altima 2.5
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Talking

FIXED!

Finally. There were some procedures not done correctly and I would like to share this experience so other may not have to spend their life figuring this issue out.
  1. ENGINE COLD
  2. Perform "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning" .
  3. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
  4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
  5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
  6. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
  7. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
  8. WAIT over 10 seconds before this next step.
  9. Perform "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" .
  10. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
  11. Turn ignition switch “ON”. WAIT EXACTLY ONE SECOND SHARP. Turn ignition switch “OFF”
  12. THEN wait at least 10 seconds.
  13. Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound. - Very hard to hear anything at all. Just believe this is happening by faith.
Now, here's the big change
  1. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
AND RIDE YOUR CAR FOR AT LEAST 15 MINUTES, this will make for correct operating temperatures to happen within the engine for the following steps. Warming your car in the garage in the morning aparently does not cut it.

Check that all items listed under the topic “PREPARATION” (previously mentioned) are in good order.
  1. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
  2. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
  3. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
  4. Fully depress the accelerator pedal. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
  5. Wait 7 seconds
  6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turns ON.
  7. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL goes off. Start engine and let it idle. THE ENGINE MUST BE STARTED WITHIN THE 3 SECONDS AFTER IT STOPS BLINKING, THATS HOW THIS LIGHT GOES OFF. THE SERVICE MANUAL DOES NOT STATE THIS, BUT IF YOU LOOK AT THE DIAGRAM WHERE THE ENGINE LINE ON-OFF IS, IT CLEARLY SHOWS YOU SHOULD TURN IT ON WITHIN THESE THREE SECONDS.
This is where your engine will start to learn the correct idle settings
  1. Wait 20 seconds.
  2. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
After all this, I have my car back. I truely hope the above will help anyone who's about to jump from a bridge that's going thru this.

Thanks to all that spent the time to drop a few lines and helped with their necessary input.
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  #20  
Old 04-19-2008, 03:59 PM
Riverst78
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Default Have the same problem just bought.

I just bought a used 03 Altima S.L, and the dealer (used car, NOT Altima) replaced the throttle body without relearning the idle. Upon driving home, the SES light came back on. I went to Auto Zone, and it is indeed the 'idle speed too high' problem. The car idles at 1500 rpm with no AC, and around 900 WITH AC.

I cleared the codes at Autozone, and tried the methods to relearn outlined above. However, I must be doing something wrong. I NEVER get any blinking SES light. Does the Ignition ON mean when all the warning lights are on on the dash, or when you see the CD player screen light up and that is all?

Does OFF mean completely off, or to another setting?
I have tried the method about a dozen times with no success. The lights are always on, not blinking, no matter what I do. Please advise!
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  #21  
Old 04-19-2008, 07:20 PM
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AltimaPR AltimaPR is offline
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2003 Nissan Altima 2.5
 
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Man, do I understand your frustration.

* Ignition switch on: means ignition on - all panel lights on, NOT radio acc on.
* Ignition switch off: means all off no lights, no nothing....off.

By the way, turn your radio off. There should be no other electrical drainage when conducting this procedure. i.e.: dome light, radio, ac off etc. This is specified in the service manual.

Try starting step #1 of this routine when the engine is cold.

* Use a digital watch when counting seconds. I'm sure I failed to get results earlier in part because of this.

* SES light will NOT go off, until you start the engine. Sorry, step #7 is misleading. But thats the way it also appears in the service detail. When pressing the accelerator pedal for the 20 seconds, the SES light should start blinking after the first 8~9 seconds. After that it should stay on or steady and this is when you start your engine. When it stays back on, start your engine within the 3 seconds. Remember, your ignition is on already, just turn the key to start your engine. DON'T go back to OFF then ON again. You will loose all the progress done and will have to start again.

Download the service manual (lot of info overall).

Hope this works for you too.
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  #22  
Old 04-20-2008, 11:08 AM
Riverst78
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Default Thanks.

I drove to work this morning, and the SES light came back on finally (after clearing it yesterday). On a whim I decided to try to relearn it in the garage parking lot (the numbers are burned into my brain by now), and I finally got past the blinking light part, restarted my engine, and now the idle in park seems to be around 600rpm instead of 1400. So that's good. However, I did NOT clear my codes before doing this, and the SES light is still on. If I go to Autozone and clear them, will I be ok because the rpms are looking pretty good now, or would I need to relearn the system once again?

Thanks for your advice- the stopwatch worked wonders.
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  #23  
Old 04-20-2008, 07:32 PM
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AltimaPR AltimaPR is offline
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2003 Nissan Altima 2.5
 
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I'm just glad you made it too. I know these emission controls are necessary, but I just miss tinkering my carburated 305 for Saturday nights.

Erase the code and your SES light will go off, it will stay off now that you got the correct RPM. The code will popup every time you miss setting RPM and after a drive. I had to erase the codes about 8 times until I got the true way of doing this. I bought the small pocketscan (actron, give them a plug they deserve some credit) and erased them myself. When the system redetects the wrong RPM or throttle failure. it will display the P0507 code again. Good thing you mentioned you set the RPM's with the P0507 code still in memory. Everybody says you need to erase first.

Now we know for sure this is the correct procedure.
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  #24  
Old 04-22-2008, 01:41 PM
Riverst78
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Default No SES light still!

Thanks again for your help. I went to Autozone on my way home from work on Sunday, borrowed their computer, and erased the codes AFTER relearning the throttle control. It is Wednesday now, and there is still no SES light. Perhaps when you set the correct idle, if you did not clear the code before, you can still do it after. I will keep you updated if I see the light come on again. However, the light has now been off for around 3 days now, so I suspect it is fine.

By the way- you saved me 120 dollars taking this back to the shop (their price to relearn the system). A bit excessive for 5 minutes of work.
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  #25  
Old 04-22-2008, 02:39 PM
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AltimaPR AltimaPR is offline
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2003 Nissan Altima 2.5
 
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Posts: 74
Smile

Correct. It will stay off after you set correct RPM. It would come back at you if you don't set it. Sure as hell beats paying an abusive amount of money. Dealer quoted me on a throttle body plus the necessary service to re-install: $550.00

Some one tell me they didn't know better. Hope others will benefit from this homework and save a few $$$ while at it as well.
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  #26  
Old 06-28-2008, 09:37 AM
osogood
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Default Question ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by AltimaPR View Post
FIXED!

Finally. There were some procedures not done correctly and I would like to share this experience so other may not have to spend their life figuring this issue out.
  1. ENGINE COLD
  2. Perform "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning" .
  3. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
  4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
  5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
  6. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
  7. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
  8. WAIT over 10 seconds before this next step.
  9. Perform "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" .
  10. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
  11. Turn ignition switch “ON”. WAIT EXACTLY ONE SECOND SHARP. Turn ignition switch “OFF”
  12. THEN wait at least 10 seconds.
  13. Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound. - Very hard to hear anything at all. Just believe this is happening by faith.
Now, here's the big change
  1. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
AND RIDE YOUR CAR FOR AT LEAST 15 MINUTES, this will make for correct operating temperatures to happen within the engine for the following steps. Warming your car in the garage in the morning aparently does not cut it.


Check that all items listed under the topic “PREPARATION” (previously mentioned) are in good order.
  1. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
  2. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
  3. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
  4. Fully depress the accelerator pedal. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
  5. Wait 7 seconds
  6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turns ON.
  7. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL goes off. Start engine and let it idle. THE ENGINE MUST BE STARTED WITHIN THE 3 SECONDS AFTER IT STOPS BLINKING, THATS HOW THIS LIGHT GOES OFF. THE SERVICE MANUAL DOES NOT STATE THIS, BUT IF YOU LOOK AT THE DIAGRAM WHERE THE ENGINE LINE ON-OFF IS, IT CLEARLY SHOWS YOU SHOULD TURN IT ON WITHIN THESE THREE SECONDS.
This is where your engine will start to learn the correct idle settings
  1. Wait 20 seconds.
  2. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
After all this, I have my car back. I truely hope the above will help anyone who's about to jump from a bridge that's going thru this.

Thanks to all that spent the time to drop a few lines and helped with their necessary input.
Do you release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the light stops blinking and you start engine (turn on) or start engine with accelerator pedal fully depressed and wait for the light to turn off and then release the accelerator pedal ????
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  #27  
Old 07-08-2008, 09:51 AM
deolsabh deolsabh is offline
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2003 nissan
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 1
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Hello
Thanks a lot AltimaPR

I followed you procedure as you said, i do have to do mulitple time thought, but now my car is normal.

I did loaned code reader form AutoZone they will loan it to you for a month and refund your deposit.
thanks a lot

i have added hydrogen generator to my car and i am getting more mile (right now 4 extra ) but my newer generator will give me more mile

let me know if anybody interested i can help
prithvi
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  #28  
Old 07-26-2008, 01:41 PM
ashtonad
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Default A million thanks, Altima PR!

Quote:
Originally Posted by AltimaPR View Post
FIXED!

Finally. There were some procedures not done correctly and I would like to share this experience so other may not have to spend their life figuring this issue out.
  1. ENGINE COLD
  2. Perform "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning" .
  3. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
  4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
  5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
  6. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
  7. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
  8. WAIT over 10 seconds before this next step.
  9. Perform "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" .
  10. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
  11. Turn ignition switch “ON”. WAIT EXACTLY ONE SECOND SHARP. Turn ignition switch “OFF”
  12. THEN wait at least 10 seconds.
  13. Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound. - Very hard to hear anything at all. Just believe this is happening by faith.
Now, here's the big change
  1. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
AND RIDE YOUR CAR FOR AT LEAST 15 MINUTES, this will make for correct operating temperatures to happen within the engine for the following steps. Warming your car in the garage in the morning aparently does not cut it.


Check that all items listed under the topic “PREPARATION” (previously mentioned) are in good order.
  1. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
  2. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
  3. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
  4. Fully depress the accelerator pedal. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
  5. Wait 7 seconds
  6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turns ON.
  7. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL goes off. Start engine and let it idle. THE ENGINE MUST BE STARTED WITHIN THE 3 SECONDS AFTER IT STOPS BLINKING, THATS HOW THIS LIGHT GOES OFF. THE SERVICE MANUAL DOES NOT STATE THIS, BUT IF YOU LOOK AT THE DIAGRAM WHERE THE ENGINE LINE ON-OFF IS, IT CLEARLY SHOWS YOU SHOULD TURN IT ON WITHIN THESE THREE SECONDS.
This is where your engine will start to learn the correct idle settings
  1. Wait 20 seconds.
  2. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
After all this, I have my car back. I truely hope the above will help anyone who's about to jump from a bridge that's going thru this.

Thanks to all that spent the time to drop a few lines and helped with their necessary input.
I had just about given up hope - I know you know the feeling. So today my husband and I schlepped BACK out to the driveway and started again - this time using your updated post with the helpful extra info in red - AND our kitchen timer which we realized flashed every second. No stopwatch or digital watch available, but we got the importance of exact counts on certain parts. So we did the procedure. Started from cold with first part, then when we got back to the driveway, had a few problems with the SES light not blinking. Realized we'd not turned the ignition all the way on. Instead of giving up, we started back at Step 1 of the first procedure and went through the whole thing again (except for the driving it at least 15 mins., because we'd already done that). Sure enough, we finally got the blinking SES light. The neighbors must have thought we'd won the lottery! So thanks again - the sweetest sound in the world was while we held our breath and the idle dropped down from the 1400 to a purr. We cleared the code and are so grateful for your perserverance. Thank you so much for clearing up this problem we've had for over 3 years now!
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  #29  
Old 07-26-2008, 01:46 PM
ashtonad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by osogood View Post
Do you release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the light stops blinking and you start engine (turn on) or start engine with accelerator pedal fully depressed and wait for the light to turn off and then release the accelerator pedal ????
The first part of Step 7 says to release it. You start the engine within the 3 seconds after SES light stops blinking. It stayed on steady for us. Didn't go out. After SES stopped blinking and stayed on steady, we cranked the engine. Hang in there. It really does work. We've been battling this problem for 3 years. Use a timer. And when he says "at least 2 seconds" or "at least 10 seconds," don't jump the gun. Wait "at least" as long as he says. You may have to do it several times to get it right, but if you start back at Step1 and run through it in sequence, it will work.
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  #30  
Old 08-05-2008, 04:33 PM
SebastianW
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In my case everything went well, I got it down to 800RPM until the time i turned engine off.
I shut it off and tried starting again after 10 seconds. Engine had 1100RPM again and it looks like it doesn't remember what it learned. I noticed that if I start the engine before throttle resets its position (about 3 seconds after shut off) everything works fine. If I start it after 3 seconds I need to re-learn it again.
Also when I start the engine it first goes to about 2000RPM before it comes back to idle which makes weird noise coming from the timing chain cover.
Technically everything is ok because I just replaced the throttle body (rebuilt), intake manifold gaskets, pcv valve and spark plugs. I thought that the issue was caused by throttle body but as you can see it didn't fix the problem.

My Altima is 3.5 V6 SE

Last edited by SebastianW; 08-05-2008 at 04:37 PM.
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