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Install a coolant bleeder on 2002 2.5S Altima Forums > > Install a coolant bleeder on 2002 2.5S Altima Install a coolant bleeder on 2002 2.5S Altima
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Old 12-18-2018, 04:03 AM
Gev Gev is offline
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Default Install a coolant bleeder on 2002 2.5S Altima

I have this ongoing cold heater at idle issue. Have tried a lot of bleeding methods, sometimes helps, sometimes doesn't.
Anyways, this was a little pre-story to give the reason why I decided to install a bleeder on this car that originally doesn't have one. Actually I already have made one looking something like the photo attached. Just tell me one thing please, where is it wiser to install it, on the outlet or inlet hose of the heater core?
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Install a coolant bleeder on 2002 2.5S Altima-z1coolantbleederport2-2-jpg  

Last edited by Gev; 12-18-2018 at 11:51 PM.
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Old 12-18-2018, 05:03 PM
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bennyb53 bennyb53 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gev View Post
I have this ongoing cold heater at idle issue. Have tried a lot of bleeding methods, sometimes helps, sometimes doesn't. I decided to install a bleeder on this car that originally doesn't have one. Just till me one thing please, where is it wiser to install it, on the outlet or inlet hose of the heater core?
1. It may be wiser not to go ahead with your Cooling/Heating System Bleeder Project. You may be installing additional trouble.
2. If there was a need for it I'm sure Nissan Engineers would have done it.
3. IDK what repairs have been done in you cooling system that allowed air into the system.

4. Did you Scan the ECM if computer goes into a Closed Loop---where computer start receiving feedback from sensors when engine reaches normal operating temperature (usually 3-4 minutes from start up). If you haven't replace your Thermostat it is possible it is stuck open and takes very long time for engine to warm up. If CEL is lit Scan ECM.
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Old 12-18-2018, 11:50 PM
Gev Gev is offline
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Thanks bennyb53.
I can see in your profile you own/ed a 2002 Altima, but have you encountered the exact same issue I'm talking about or you just gave me a general advise?
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Old 12-19-2018, 12:29 PM
Gev Gev is offline
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bennyb53,
I'm asking this as.
In response to your arguments.
1. This is going to be just a piece of a brass tube somewhere in the middle of one of heater core hoses, which is absolutely nothing to worry about. I have already tested the bleeder on it and the whole piece under a high water pressure.
2. Given the amount of known problems of this and other models of Nissan, I wouldn't that much rely upon "Nissan Engineers". Check this link out, or any other, there are a lot of them out there in the internet. 2002 Nissan Altima Problems, Defects & Complaints
3.No cooling system repair has been done on this car. On the other hand I know that due to warped engine head (another known issue) I'm adding a gallon of coolant a year. Of course I didn't conduct a scientific research to learn what exactly is going on in there, somewhere in between the engine, engine head and the head gasket, but the fact is that the coolant is disappearing little by little (believe me there is absolutely no visible leak available). Considering this issue, there may also be exhaust gases penetrating into the cooling system, or whatsoever. I'll preempt you and say that I know to do it right way I have to fix the warped head, but I don't want to spend that $200 at the moment, besides it doesn't bother me so much. I'm a reasonable and calm driver, don't do any speeding or anything crazy like that, just commute, work, home, worm up the vehicle every time prior to driving, change engine oil regularly ... So I'd rather bleed the system easy way than do these crazy procedures every time YouTube.
4. I think I don't quite understand "Scan the ECM if computer goes into a Closed Loop---where computer start receiving feedback from sensors when engine reaches normal operating temperature (usually 3-4 minutes from start up)". At least I have no CE code. As for thermostat, I have at least checked the upper one, it's operating perfectly.
The issue is not that it starts heating late or the car worms up late, everything is perfect in that regard. The problem is that when I accelerate the heat is there, whenever on idle (say going downhill or traffic light stop) it doesn't.

Guess I addressed all your concerns.
So any advise, inlet or outlet?

P.S. By the way, the very same Nisan does install bleeders on other models, say Infinity G35 or Nissan Fuga.
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Old 12-19-2018, 02:31 PM
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1. What I was trying to say is I'm not aware of any make of car that has a factory air bleeder installed. The factory manual for these cars has a procedure bleeding air in cooling system. According to you, there was never work done on the cooling system so there's no reason Air is introduced into the system.
2. You mentioned the Head was warped so it tells me work was done on that part. If you removed the head, you have to drain coolant and re-fill and that's when Air got into the cooling system.
3. You mentioned also of Loss of Coolant. Better find out if you have a leak. If no visible leak, coolant may have leaked internally and mixed with oil. I suggest you send Sample of your oil for Oil Analysis. Oil analysis is a very effective diagnostic tool without the need for engine tear down. When I was losing coolant without visible leak I sent for Oil Analysis and report came back with coolant and oil had mixed. That's when I replaced the head gasket. Just search Oil Analysis and you get a few that will do it, take your pick. I believed I went with Oil Analyzer.

3. On two occasions where I drained and re-fill coolant was (1) when I had a Head Gasket replacement job (2) when I replaced a crack radiator. On these two occasion, when I refill the coolant and start up the engine I left radiator cap off and watched coolant recirculating. When I see coolant starts to rise as engine warmed up I re-nstall radiator cap. I then turned on the Heater and Fan on high so coolant circulates into the heater core. I then rev engine up to 2k or 2.5k 30 seconds at a time for about three times. I road test for about 10 minutes, shut off engine and re-start. That's all I ever did and had no issue of air in cooling system.

Last edited by bennyb53; 12-19-2018 at 02:33 PM.
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Old 12-22-2018, 01:27 AM
Howard Bell Howard Bell is offline
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FYI, almost all late Model Fords have coolant systems that automatically self bleed by the time the stat has opened, you never have to bleed them at ALL. Why they have the extra hoses.


Bleeding, or more accurately TRYING TO, is useless and incompetent if the hose bleed position is not at the top highest level in a system and the heater core is typically NOT that. The only place you can bleed is at the hoses highest up in the car like the upper rad hose or right at a rad cap. Look for the highest point any hose comes in the car for the best bleed point.



If the engine stat that regulates back to the top rad hose has a mounting position that mounts the main round circle of the stat vertical, then commonly the plate has a small hole that needs to be facing straight up to bleed correctly, otherwise the air stacks up at the stat valve OD size, or maybe 1/4" of air trapped in. Many stats come with a small piddle valve stuck in those bleed holes, I commonly remove that little valve, it blocks bleeding from happening and it doesn't do anything anyway except get stuck from corrosion to block the vent off. You can also drill a 1/16"-1/8" hole in the stat edge if not one there to bleed better than without it. Again, the hole must face straight up to bleed the most air.



There is ALWAYS some air in the system and impossible not to be, the trick is to get it all up high and trapped so it does not cause a problem and what the reservoir does. If you had no air there the rad would rupture, the liquid is uncompressible but the air is not and why it has to be there.
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Old 12-22-2018, 01:33 AM
Howard Bell Howard Bell is offline
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As well, you can have lesser coolant leaks that leak slowly over time and slow enough they evap the leakage due to underhood heat. You typically have a LOT of trouble finding those as you won't find liquid present. Get under car with a good light and then look for the antifreeze stains that tell you where the coolant is stacking up to drip before it evaporates. The Fords I have are super bad about that with 9 separate hoses on each (the bleed hoses I mentioned) and they often leak just enough you have fits finding them.
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