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Chain tensioner 'modification' Forums > > Chain tensioner 'modification' Chain tensioner 'modification'
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  #1  
Old 03-28-2017, 03:28 AM
RFKJR RFKJR is offline
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2005 Altima Sedan
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 14
Default Chain tensioner 'modification'

While replacing the water pump, on my 2005 Altima, I found the chain tensioner pushing on the wrong part of the arm as many have described on here. I made this bracket to keep the plastic piece from slipping down. The tensioner goes into a partially drilled hole on the bottom, so I think it will prevent the plastic from moving down. What do ya'all think? I dont want to pull the front cover off and put more plastic pieces in that will fail again. Nissan Altima has 150K on it. Id like to know if the Nissan gurus think this will work.
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  #2  
Old 03-28-2017, 05:40 PM
Soapmyster Soapmyster is offline
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2005 Altima
2005 Altima
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Oriskany
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hmm.
Welcome to the forum.
How thick is the gap between the plunger and the plastic guide?
that would be a possible concern. I ask this because you want to make sure the plunger is not bottomed out.
I suppose that should work.
What made you think to make that? I am unaware if that is a common issue?
Have 2 2.5ls and have not had any issues (knock on wood)
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  #3  
Old 03-28-2017, 06:24 PM
RFKJR RFKJR is offline
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I used a pilot point drill bit to make the counterbore for the plunger to go up into. It was a 1/2 inch drill, and i had to use a rotory burr to open the hole up a little more so the plunger fit inside easily. The pilot point of the drill went through the end under the plastic so the oil can escape out the hole. I would guess the hole is 3/16 on the other end, with about 3/32 material thickness left for the plunger to push on. Ran the car tonight. So far so good. About all 3.5s fail like this, from what I've read.
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  #4  
Old 03-28-2017, 06:35 PM
Soapmyster Soapmyster is offline
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2005 Altima
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Location: Oriskany
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good researching.
looks like you might be ok then. As long as it stays put, which being inserted into the plunger should keep it there
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  #5  
Old 12-07-2017, 04:00 PM
[email protected] dougb@mnsoft.com is offline
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2005 Quest
 
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Has the bracket continued to push against the correct portion of the broken timing chain guide and continued to eliminate the noise of the timing chain slapping against the guide?

Did you remove and replace the tensioner when you installed the bracket?

If you removed the tensioner, what exactly did you do to remove the tensioner? For example, did you have to remove the waterpump access cover, turn the crankshaft to move get slack on the timing chain.

I looked at the shop manual to remove the tensioner, but the instructions appear to be for a different tensioner than the one in your vehicle or my vehicle. The tensioner in my 06 quest is the same as the one in your picture.

thanks
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  #6  
Old 12-08-2017, 07:31 AM
RFKJR RFKJR is offline
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I have had no problems with the chain tensioner / guide since I put the piece inside. I did replace the tensioner when I did it because the gasket on the back of the tensioner was torn, and oil leaking out the back of the tensioner would not be good. Also, it was pretty cheap, so a no brainer. I was installing the water pump when I discovered the guide had slipped down inside the tensioner opening, so I did have the water pump cover off, but it would not be necessary to do the mod. You can turn the crankshaft pulley to put some slack in the chain, and remove the tensioner. You dont need to open the water pump cover to do this.
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  #7  
Old 12-08-2017, 08:18 AM
[email protected] dougb@mnsoft.com is offline
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Did you install an oem tensioner?

When removing the tensioner, it doesn't appear you would require additional slack in the chain.If you remove the 2 bolts securing the tensioner, won't the tensioner be released and the tensioner can be removed thru the tensioner opening?

Would you need slack in the chain when reinstalling tensioner since the tensioner piston is fully retracted?

Do I need to consider top-dead-center for piston 1?

If I need slack, how is this done. Every post and even the shop manual describe the process including removing the water pump, so how is slack created without removing the water pump?

Does the broken plastic guide easily slide up into position to install the tensioner and custom bracket?

Did you install the tensioner, then place the bracket on the end of the tensioner and slide the guide up into the bracket and then release the piston? If not, what did you do?

After installing, what is the method for building oil pressure in the tensioner prior to starting the car? And what can be done to insure the chain doesn't jump a few positions.

thanks for all of your assistance.

Your bracket design was genius.
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  #8  
Old 12-08-2017, 05:28 PM
RFKJR RFKJR is offline
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I will try to answer all your questions. Here we go. First, I am an industrial mechanic, NOT a Nissan mechanic. I can read a service manual and work on anything, but that does not make me an expert on anything.

I got a tensioner at Advance Auto Parts. I wanted it fast, and it looked the same on all the websites I looked at. They had it in stock. Remember, I had this car apart to change the water pump, and the tensioner deal was a learning experience for me.

The main reason to even mess with the chain is to change the water pump, and that is why I think all the manuals tell you to open the cover. You dont have to. There is nothing to do in there except to remove the pump AFTER you releave the tension on the chain. Then you put the pump in, and install the tensioner LAST. So you can remove and reinstall the tensioner without opening the water pump cover.

Open the tensioner cover, and turn the crankshaft pulley. You will see the slack in the chain when you turn the engine in reverse. You can remove the bolts and the tensioner at this time. On install, the granade pin holds the piston retracted.

You dont need to consider TDC. I would not turn the engine with the tensioner removed, as I would not want the chain to skip a tooth due to the slack, so dont move it !

The plastic slides up easily. Put the tensioner in first, dont pull the pin. Then slip the bracket in. Im telling you i put it in and out 20 or so times while making the bracket just how I wanted it to fit. Trial and error. I used the old tensioner when making it till i had it right, then put the new one in the last time.

The tensioner is spring loaded, so you dont have to worry about it slipping once you pull the pin. It will push out against the bracket and chain guide once you release it.
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  #9  
Old 12-08-2017, 05:57 PM
[email protected] dougb@mnsoft.com is offline
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Thank you so much for responding. I know I have to turn the crank shaft, but don't know how and what needs to be removed around the crank and what exactly is used to move the chain to get slack...and which way is the crank shaft turned to get slack; CW or CCW.
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