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2007 Altima Single crank but not starting (long post) Forums > > 2007 Altima Single crank but not starting (long post) 2007 Altima Single crank but not starting (long post)
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  #1  
Old 01-14-2013, 11:12 AM
LDVinci LDVinci is offline
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2007 Altima
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
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Default 2007 Altima Single crank but not starting (long post)

I need some help with my Altima’s issue. I will try to explain my situation as thoroughly as possible.


So I got an Amp and sub installed in my Altima on a weekend, and after the installation I could not start my engine anymore. All I know is that I drove my car to get it installed and after there was a problem. When they were tuning the sub, everything was working fine. Very suspicious BUT I don’t know if the installation or the tech is to blame.



When I attempt to start my car (step on the breaks and push the “Start” button) you can hear the engine crank once. One single click, but nothing happens. You can do this as many times as you want – same results. At first I thought it was the battery, so we jumped my car but result was the same single click. Then I got someone to bring a brand new battery from Wal-mart. We installed the new battery but the result was still the same. We checked all the fuses (in hood and cabin). In the end, we COMPLETELY removed the amp, sub, and all the wiring – still the same. Then, puzzled and defeated, I had my car towed to the dealership that I had always brought my car to. My Altima sat at the dealership for a total of 3 days. The tech at the dealership first suspected that it was the starter, they swapped a new one but it didn’t fix anything. Then they thought that the wire harness may have been damaged by the drilling through the firewall (I also suspected this), but it would be $500 just to check and adviser couldn’t tell me if this would fix it for sure or how much the estimated total would be so I told them I would take it home.



Now at home, I took apart the intake, wipers and cover for the bottom part of the windshield to check the suspected damaged wire harness next to the steering column. Yes it was damaged by the drill bit, but just one wire was exposed (not severed) and it led to the windshield wiper motor. I taped the exposed copper up and plugged the windshield motor back in to check – motor ran fine. Next I went to buy a new (rebuilt) starter from my local auto parts store. I replaced my current starter with the new one and it still has the same result, so I put my old starter back on.


One thing I did find out, with the help of another Nissan tech, I can jump my starter and start my engine! (?) Procedure is… 1) start your car normally (brake and “Start”) 2) go under the hood and with a wire touch the positive lead on the starter to the positive lead on the battery. Viola! Engine starts and runs normally (I drove from the dealer home this way). Any help on this issue will be greatly appreciated!

Problem:
1) Car cranks once with a single “thuck” sound coming from the starter(?), but the engine never starts.


Things I have already tried and/or know:
1) Changed the battery
2) Checked all fuses and relays in the fuse box
3) Checked suspected damaged wire harness
4) Changed the starter
5) Checked the break switch (it actuates the brake lights and lets me start my car too)
6) Checked all connections that I can easily get to
7) Jumping the starter STARTS my engine like normal.
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  #2  
Old 01-14-2013, 01:40 PM
NissanAltima01 NissanAltima01 is offline
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2003 Altima 2.5S
 
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It could be the steering lock controller as mentioned in this thread.

car wont start- steering wheel not locked
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  #3  
Old 01-14-2013, 03:30 PM
LDVinci LDVinci is offline
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Thanks for the reply!

I was going to find out more information on the "Steering lock control unit" on the 2007 Altima, but couldn't find anything other than "yes that was the problem" and/or "yes replacing it fixed the problem." I mean, there aren't any pictures or schematics on this unit or even where its located.

Would you be able to point out exactly where this unit is?
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  #4  
Old 01-14-2013, 03:52 PM
NissanAltima01 NissanAltima01 is offline
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I'm not entirely sure where exactly this part is located, but i have read couple of threads regarding this issue and some users suggested tapping the steering wheel to temporarily release this device to start your vehicle. It is an expensive part + labor if that is what you are dealing with. Hopefully someone else can assist you further.
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  #5  
Old 01-14-2013, 04:04 PM
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bennyb53 bennyb53 is offline
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Location: Hawaii
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It should be obvious if you were able to jump start the starter. Your mechanic should have recognize this. As you know the circuit from Batt. positive to starter positive is hot all the time with 12v supply. With a voltmeter you do the same connection with jumper wire and you would get 0v with key off and 12v with key on. Now crank the engine to see if you're getting 12v at the starter. If you're not getting 12v then you know voltage is drop somewhere along from batt. post to the starter. So inspect and/or replace positive cable. There's also one circuit coming off of the ingnition switch that you need to check to make sure you're getting 12v to the starter.
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  #6  
Old 01-15-2013, 08:04 AM
LDVinci LDVinci is offline
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I highly suspect the steering lock control unit now that you mentioned it.



Before my car decided to die on me, sometimes I would silence the car beeping (reminding me to take my key) by pressing the button on the inside of where the door closes. This would stop the beeping and create a mechanical sound kind of like a motor whirring under the driver side dash. Now that my car is showing problems, I notice that when I hit that button the beeping stops but I no longer hear that motor whirring sound anymore. Keep in mind that my car acts PERFECTLY normal electrically, only the engine doesn’t start. I can confirm with later with a 2009 Altima.


I did some searching online and I a single post about this issue and how it was fixed (I will find it and post to give due credit). This guy was having similar issues with his Altima and said he later found that it was caused by a “dead” steering lock control unit. He said that the broken unit is no longer communicating with the ECU telling it that the steering column is no longer locked.



I was able to locate the unit as well. It is situated under the steering column behind the lower dash covering. After you remove the lower dash covering you will see a metallic box with a single electrical plug in it sitting under the steering column.



Anyways I called my local dealership (you can ONLY get this through the dealer) and found that is part is for sale at ~$750 and there are NONE near Houston at the time (not surprised now). At first the service advisor said that it was plug and play, but then he “double-checked” and said that I actually need to bring my car in with all the keys. Has anyone attempted to replace the steering wheel lock unit by themselves?
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  #7  
Old 01-15-2013, 09:09 AM
jsbyrne68 jsbyrne68 is offline
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Default steering wheel lock

750 for the part is way high. It is about 3-400 and change. I had an 09 come here from the dealer when they couldnt figure it out. A service recall on these has been posted and you can find it in here. Regardless I traced the electric to the "electronic steering control lock" and while it was on the lift I could move the steering wheel freely. (the steering was not locked when in park and key removed.) Check this first. It will eliminate alot for you. ,Now for the trick I did to get car started. I took the steering wheel tilt lock and pulled it so I could move steering wheel freely up and down. With the other hand I took the wheel and slammed it up and down pretty hard and wala. That freed the sticking lock and the car started. I was bottoming the wheel out on the top and bottom. I have not had the car not start since then. It is not fixed just mobile. They dont want to spend the 800. Its 400 and an hour and a half labor. There is also a brake switch problem on these as well. Push the pedal and see if you have lights on rear when applied. Both of these are TSB's (Technical Sevice Bulletins) I cant even understand the dealer not knowing this. It is a huge problem. Anyways I will look up the proceedure for you and send it to you I just cant do it from work. Verify the problem first, let me look up the proceedure for you, and we go from there.
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  #8  
Old 01-15-2013, 10:22 AM
LDVinci LDVinci is offline
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Thanks to everyone who has contributed to my issue. It is Very stressful when your daily driver craps out on you like that, at least with your help I feel a bit more at ease. So, Thank you guys.


Last night I double checked my brake switch again. Stepped on the brake; the rear brake lights engaged. I even tried to place a jumper wire in the switch to “trick” the switch into thinking it was engaged; lights on and the car is ready to be turned on. Everything on the ignition switch side is fully functional. Like I said in my first post, pushing the Start button will engage the starter solenoid, but I’m guessing no power is being delivered (interlock issue).


Ok so to answer your other question. Yes, I do notice that, with my car off and key nowhere near the vehicle, I can turn my steering wheel freely from one side to the other – no locks. Normally it would lock up if I do an eighth (?) turn in any direction.
I tried to knock my steering column around last night was well. I moved it up, down and even telescopically too. I thought I did it pretty hard, but I will give it another go tonight.


What really upset me about the whole situation is that I felt like the dealer was just trying to cheat me out of more money than normal. I understand paying a premium for taking it to the dealership, and I’m fine with that. But when they tell me, “You’re going to have to pay 500 for us to take out some parts from the engine just to ‘diagnose’.” That is just pushing it too far. On top of that (if the lock is really the cause) it wasn’t even one of the things they were suspecting AND it’s not even something that I could damage… this is CLEARLY a manufacturing defect. A recall should be issues out for this because it is not only wasting Nissan customers time and money, it can be potentially dangerous if this happened out in the middle of nowhere.
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  #9  
Old 01-15-2013, 10:45 AM
NissanAltima01 NissanAltima01 is offline
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2003 Altima 2.5S
 
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I think they are asking too much for the part and labor. You should look into this and see if they did make a recall on it yet and yes you would have to take it to the dealership and don't forget to take all of your keys as well for the reprogramming.
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  #10  
Old 01-15-2013, 03:33 PM
jsbyrne68 jsbyrne68 is offline
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2007 Maxima
 
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Default steering lock

hey man no problem with helping. I know how it comes back to you and you never know maybe one day I might be stranded or broken down and you pick me up. I was fortunate that the "trick" I did released the lock assembly. The actual swap of new improved part is easy and the dealer only thing rubs me the wrong way and I will be honest its why I wont work there. As an independant employee it gives me the opportunity to work on every make and model.It makes me a more valuable tech and more readily employable. It aint easy sometime though because the "stealership"will not release software for my scanner to reprogram new parts and computers. It is unfair that you are forced to go to the dealer. I should have every resource available to me to work on anything that rolls. Its ok though, because I will figure it out either way as you can see. And for the last guy who said that it might be a recall unfortunatly is wrong. The only recall is for the 09 cube with the same issue. The maxima and altima are NOT recalls. Do the math here, would you want to pay out on millions of massed produced cars or only the ones you rarely see? Thats customer service for ya! It is unfortunate for them to not take responsibility after the fact and issue a service recall for techs for a faulty part. I like the import products. And generally speaking they are better engineered than most others. I own a 07 maxima SE I love it. I just dont like the fact that they know of this problem and the normal customer who is not a tech has no clue of the situation, and how wrong it is to sweep iot under the table. I work hard for my money as do you thats why I help people on here. Its the least I can do to give back what was taught to me. Let me know what happens, but to me I see by the steering wheel being unlocked you already know what it is. The new one is designed much better, just think they should do it for free. Thanx for listening. Hope you get it back on the street.
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