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2002 Altima - Belt slap/slip - dealer can't fix Forums > > 2002 Altima - Belt slap/slip - dealer can't fix 2002 Altima - Belt slap/slip - dealer can't fix
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  #31  
Old 08-30-2010, 07:22 PM
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ashtondavid007

Print the Nissan Altima Service bulletin NTB10-002 available here and take it with you on your visit to your Nissan service shop. It shows up precisely under 2003 Altima. That should help them get acquainted with the alternator clutch pulley. Note that it states the actual run direction of lock into one direction and drag towards the other end on the alternator and recommends a replacement of the whole unit to the shop. I just wonder is this could fall under a recall and end up for free. I've seen related info on a recall but not specific or detailed.
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  #32  
Old 08-31-2010, 05:08 AM
Boland01 Boland01 is offline
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My 2009 Altima has the shakes while stopped with the AC on so I guess Nissan still has not addressed the issue. If you turn off the AC or put the car in neutral or park the vibration goes away. I've had this since day one.
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  #33  
Old 08-31-2010, 05:23 AM
ashtondavid007
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Thanks AltimaPR-I'm going to take this in with me. Do you think I'd be out of line to ask them for my $850 back from the A/C compressor replacement? I'm quite angry now that I see there is an official Nissan bulletin that has a troubleshooting flow chart that they didn't use. When I pay top dollar for Nissan to work on the car, I EXPECT them to know these types of things. ESPECIALLY after I told the advisor about the pulley issue and they still insisted. I would be okay with it if this happened at some local general mechanic.
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  #34  
Old 08-31-2010, 05:48 AM
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ashtondavid007

First get the mechanical side working, proving it was what you had suggested to inspect in the first place and was not tested by the shop as the service detail explains, then you have your case.

Having to pay top dollar for something that was NOT broken and working properly is not your fault. It's the service's shop job and duty to diagnose properly and have FULL knowledge of what's going on inside your engine. They are supposed to be the experts, not us the shade tree mechanics, and I say this in general terms not to poke on Nissan only. Remember....first get the mechanical side working...then you have your case. Good luck!
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  #35  
Old 08-31-2010, 05:59 AM
ashtondavid007
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AltimaPR- thanks for all your help! You've helped me out a TON!! I'll let you know what happens. I'm going to call and simply tell them about the bulletin, then wait and see what happens. When I go in to pick it up I'll let them approach with their best offer, but if they don't come correct, I'm talking directly to the service manager.
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  #36  
Old 09-09-2010, 01:45 AM
us_matrix
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Hi AltimaPR or everyone,

I have the similar problem on my 02 Altima with 160k miles. A friend of mine who is an mechanic spent four nights try to fix the problem. At first, we thought was belt tensinoer and replaced it but did not fix the noise problem at all. It is still making very loud metal to metal noise when the car is in gear while engine was warmed up. When it is in park or netural, rattle noise still there but not as loud as in gear. Note. Noise always there when A/C ON or OFF.
One thing we learend today was that the noise would go away when the RPM go above 800 rpm (We proofed that by stepping on paddle and kept the engine in above 800rpm). So, we think it was becasue the idle is too low and causing the noise. Therefore, we removed the idle controller and cleaned the throttle bore. After that, noise go away but introduced another problem, Engine rev up and down from 1200 to 1700 rpm when in park or netural with SES light stay on. RPM will back to normal about 1000rpm when is in gear. I found your post regarding "procedure of re-learning the idle". I will follow your procedure tomorrow for fixing the idle problem. But here is my question, do you think the low idle was the root of the problem causing the metal to metal noise? I do not hear any more noise after we cleaned the throttle bore but it is in very high idle now .

BTW, Before we cleaned the throttle bore to make the noise go away. We removed the belt to try to determine if the noise was coming from alternator, water pump etc. No noise when in park but nose back again when in gear. That's telling us it is coming from engine inside or somewhere other than parts running by the belt.

Thanks.
Mu


Quote:
Originally Posted by AltimaPR View Post
ashtondavid007

First get the mechanical side working, proving it was what you had suggested to inspect in the first place and was not tested by the shop as the service detail explains, then you have your case.

Having to pay top dollar for something that was NOT broken and working properly is not your fault. It's the service's shop job and duty to diagnose properly and have FULL knowledge of what's going on inside your engine. They are supposed to be the experts, not us the shade tree mechanics, and I say this in general terms not to poke on Nissan only. Remember....first get the mechanical side working...then you have your case. Good luck!

Last edited by us_matrix; 09-09-2010 at 01:53 AM.
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  #37  
Old 09-09-2010, 05:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by us_matrix View Post
Hi AltimaPR or everyone,

I have the similar problem on my 02 Altima with 160k miles. A friend of mine who is an mechanic spent four nights try to fix the problem. At first, we thought was belt tensinoer and replaced it but did not fix the noise problem at all. It is still making very loud metal to metal noise when the car is in gear while engine was warmed up. When it is in park or netural, rattle noise still there but not as loud as in gear. Note. Noise always there when A/C ON or OFF.
One thing we learend today was that the noise would go away when the RPM go above 800 rpm (We proofed that by stepping on paddle and kept the engine in above 800rpm). So, we think it was becasue the idle is too low and causing the noise. Therefore, we removed the idle controller and cleaned the throttle bore. After that, noise go away but introduced another problem, Engine rev up and down from 1200 to 1700 rpm when in park or netural with SES light stay on. RPM will back to normal about 1000rpm when is in gear. I found your post regarding "procedure of re-learning the idle". I will follow your procedure tomorrow for fixing the idle problem. But here is my question, do you think the low idle was the root of the problem causing the metal to metal noise? I do not hear any more noise after we cleaned the throttle bore but it is in very high idle now .

BTW, Before we cleaned the throttle bore to make the noise go away. We removed the belt to try to determine if the noise was coming from alternator, water pump etc. No noise when in park but nose back again when in gear. That's telling us it is coming from engine inside or somewhere other than parts running by the belt.

Thanks.
Mu
Belt slapping

By your explanation, it seems there is more to the noise you hear coming from your engine that may need you to take your car to the shop. The belt slapping, noise and squeals although loud, is just that, and can be "seen" when the car is in a stop, engine is running mostly with the AC on and trans in "Drive". But a mechanical noise may definitely be something else and more serious.

Engine RPM up & down

Follow the procedure and it will work. Please note that this process works for 2.5 Altimas, not 3.5 models. On 3.5 models, several have reported it works until you turn the engine off but when started again, it went back to high idle. I have the '03 2.5S model.

Hope you get it fixed!
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  #38  
Old 09-09-2010, 04:29 PM
us_matrix
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Hi AltimaPR,

I got a 2.5s. For idleing issues, I read your procedure but I was wondering if I simply just disconnect the battery for 30 minutes and reconnect again. Drive it in different speed. Does it fix the problem or has to be follow the exact procedure like you did? Time in seconds etc...

Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AltimaPR View Post
Belt slapping

By your explanation, it seems there is more to the noise you hear coming from your engine that may need you to take your car to the shop. The belt slapping, noise and squeals although loud, is just that, and can be "seen" when the car is in a stop, engine is running mostly with the AC on and trans in "Drive". But a mechanical noise may definitely be something else and more serious.

Engine RPM up & down

Follow the procedure and it will work. Please note that this process works for 2.5 Altimas, not 3.5 models. On 3.5 models, several have reported it works until you turn the engine off but when started again, it went back to high idle. I have the '03 2.5S model.

Hope you get it fixed!
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  #39  
Old 09-09-2010, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by us_matrix View Post
Hi AltimaPR,

I got a 2.5s. For idleing issues, I read your procedure but I was wondering if I simply just disconnect the battery for 30 minutes and reconnect again. Drive it in different speed. Does it fix the problem or has to be follow the exact procedure like you did? Time in seconds etc...

Thanks.
Battery disconnect does not work. I don't believe there is an easier way to this process or going around the problem unless you take your car to NI$$AN.

It should actually be done with in about 15~20 minutes with no other major expense other than warming up your car and paying attention to the detailed process....and of course erasing the code afterward with a code reader or your nearest Auto Parts shop code reader.
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  #40  
Old 09-09-2010, 10:22 PM
vaugrae1
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I have a 2004 nissan ultima that was doing the samething dealer could not fix either. I changed idler pully (whole assembly), belt and checked every other pully under the hood(altenator, steering pump ect..). I did not think i was ever going to figure it out. Finally the altenator went out after i changed it the problem went away and has not been back sense. I would consider changing it. if you need more info let me know.
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  #41  
Old 09-09-2010, 10:36 PM
vaugrae1
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My 2004 altima had the same exact problem. it ended up being my alternator even though the pully spun freely. The alternator was becoming a magnet when it was charging causing the bind on the engine. I guess without the A/C on the motor was strong enough to pull through it at first but eventually it started duing it all of the time. My alternator finally burnt up electrically and after i chaged it i never had the problem again.
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  #42  
Old 09-10-2010, 12:05 AM
us_matrix
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It's hard to believe the alternator. Do you have the follow symtoms when making metal to metal nosie......

Is noise always there no matter A/C on or off? In my case, The noise is always there no matter A/C on or off

Noise comes up when the car in park or in gear? In my case, noise only comes up when in park or in gear (Noise is louder when in gear)

Does noise come up only in low idle like under 800 rpm? If I step on paddle little bit to bring it up to 900 rpm or above. The rattle noise go away.

Have you guys had the same symtoms from above when you said it is the alternator?

Note: We also removed the belt completely to verify if the noise are coming from engine itself or any parts like alternator, water pump, pulley etc run by the belt. Big surprise! Without the belt, I can reproduced the noise when I put in gear but no noise when in park. And when it was in gear the noise last about one minute and go away. In order to reproduce again, I have to turn off the engine and start again and go into gear to reproduce the noise but it only last for one minute then go away.

That's really drive us crazy. Becasue without the belt, I can reproduce noise when in gear but only in first minute then noise go away. If I cannot reproduct the noise without the belt, i can tell for sure it is coming from either alternator or water pump that run by the belt



Quote:
Originally Posted by vaugrae1 View Post
I have a 2004 nissan ultima that was doing the samething dealer could not fix either. I changed idler pully (whole assembly), belt and checked every other pully under the hood(altenator, steering pump ect..). I did not think i was ever going to figure it out. Finally the altenator went out after i changed it the problem went away and has not been back sense. I would consider changing it. if you need more info let me know.
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  #43  
Old 09-10-2010, 05:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by us_matrix View Post
It's hard to believe the alternator. Do you have the follow symtoms when making metal to metal nosie......

Is noise always there no matter A/C on or off? In my case, The noise is always there no matter A/C on or off

Noise comes up when the car in park or in gear? In my case, noise only comes up when in park or in gear (Noise is louder when in gear)

Does noise come up only in low idle like under 800 rpm? If I step on paddle little bit to bring it up to 900 rpm or above. The rattle noise go away.

Have you guys had the same symtoms from above when you said it is the alternator?

Note: We also removed the belt completely to verify if the noise are coming from engine itself or any parts like alternator, water pump, pulley etc run by the belt. Big surprise! Without the belt, I can reproduced the noise when I put in gear but no noise when in park. And when it was in gear the noise last about one minute and go away. In order to reproduce again, I have to turn off the engine and start again and go into gear to reproduce the noise but it only last for one minute then go away.

That's really drive us crazy. Becasue without the belt, I can reproduce noise when in gear but only in first minute then noise go away. If I cannot reproduct the noise without the belt, i can tell for sure it is coming from either alternator or water pump that run by the belt


I am having difficulty understanding...

You stated originally that you took the belt off the engine....had the engine running and you still had the noise?....then it's NOT the alternator, it is definitely coming from inside the engine as you stated. The belt exists so it may run the accessories like the water pump, alternator and power steering pump on your engine. You have a whole world of things inside your engine that can cause mechanical noises. We do not know the background on your car and this issue may be something completely outside the original topic of belt-slapping which by your described symptoms, seems not to be the alternator pulley. Did you get the RPM's down?

It may be a good time to take your car to a responsible mechanic for at least a diagnostic and work from there than replacing parts based on guesswork.
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  #44  
Old 09-10-2010, 03:07 PM
vaugrae1
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sorry I missread your post if you remove the belt and the noise is still there then it cannot be the alternator or any other belt driven component. Good luck
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  #45  
Old 09-10-2010, 04:49 PM
us_matrix
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I did not get the idle down yet. Do I need to clear the yellow "Service engine light" off first before I follow your procedure? If I do need to clear the Service engine light first. Can I disconnect the battery for 30 minutes to clear that or I have to use the scanner to clear the engine service light on panel? And also, in your proceudre, you mentioned MIL. What is MIL?

Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AltimaPR View Post
I am having difficulty understanding...

You stated originally that you took the belt off the engine....had the engine running and you still had the noise?....then it's NOT the alternator, it is definitely coming from inside the engine as you stated. The belt exists so it may run the accessories like the water pump, alternator and power steering pump on your engine. You have a whole world of things inside your engine that can cause mechanical noises. We do not know the background on your car and this issue may be something completely outside the original topic of belt-slapping which by your described symptoms, seems not to be the alternator pulley. Did you get the RPM's down?

It may be a good time to take your car to a responsible mechanic for at least a diagnostic and work from there than replacing parts based on guesswork.
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