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  #1  
Old 05-01-2017, 10:42 AM
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Unhappy Intermitent cutting out

2 days ago my 2000 Xterra v6 4x4 engine started cutting out like a dirty spark plug and the problem went away within a min. and didn't happen the rest of the day. The day after it happened but started like one plug was misfiring, and got really bad where I had to pull off the road. Then it ran a little better where it was derivable like one cylinder was missing intermittently. On my way back home after a 2 hour cool down it worked fine on the way back 15 miles with temps about 90
When it is failing I notice the Tac drops quickly like there is a problem with the distributor. Speed doesn't seam to affect the missing effect, and happens at idol also.
The first thing I will try is replacing the fuel filter, cap, plug wires. Someone told me to run some premium fuel to see if it might help with the fuel pump.

Any help would be Appreciated
Thanks Stan Man

Last edited by stanman; 05-01-2017 at 10:45 AM. Reason: miss spelled name
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  #2  
Old 05-04-2017, 04:15 PM
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Now I think it might be heat related , so I changed a Thermostat, and coolant, but that didn't help.
The other problem is that the engine light never came on, so there is probably no codes the help.
Would there be a code for low fuel flow or pressure?
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  #3  
Old 05-05-2017, 04:17 PM
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Remove the distributor cap and rotor. Under it you will see a plastic cover with 2 screws. Remove that and look for metal shavings . If you find any you will need to replace the distributor. Another common failure on that model was corrosion in the fuel sending unit. The power wires for the fuel pump plug into the top of the fuel sender and then the pump plugs into the bottom side. The connection between the two corroded and causes issues with power flow to the pump.
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Old 05-05-2017, 08:00 PM
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Default yes good idea

I had it narrowed it down to those 2 areas. What do the metal shavings mean?
Now it has a hard time idling once it gets warm , but I will try and spray starting fluid when it is having a hard time running and that would narrow it down to the fuel side, meaning sending unit or pump.

Thanks for the help.
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  #5  
Old 05-05-2017, 08:58 PM
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Metal shavings indicate the distributor shaft bearings have failed.

Last edited by smj999smj; 05-07-2017 at 04:02 PM.
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Old 05-07-2017, 02:45 PM
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Talking I found it!!!

I looked closely at the cap, rotor, coil, and components in the distributor, and removed the shield cover , and mode sure the wires were all secure. When I mover the wires going to the coil the insulation was brittle, and noticed there was a little rust on the wire. Then I looked at the cover and there was a rusty spot where the two meet, so I painted some liquid gasket on the two points where there meet and bent the wire out of the way.

Every thing is working fine now. Apparently the cracked insulation and the metal cover and maybe the badly needed engine cleaning, let some moisture in and made the rust that made the short more conductive, along with the heat that made the two suffices move closer together.

Thanks for sending me in the direction of the distributor
I was expecting it to be a very expensive fix, and I didn't get filthy and bloody in the process.

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Old 05-08-2017, 09:26 AM
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Default Woops

Celebrated too soon, drove it to work this morning 70 degrees, and about 12 miles in it had a hard time up th small hills. So its heat or miles related, and high or low RPMs. When I got to work I opened the hood and sprayed starting fluid in the intake and it didn't affect the bad stutter that it had.
I think it is heat related in the engine compartment, still no engine light, so no codes to help out.

HELP!!
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Old 05-08-2017, 11:19 AM
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Faulty distributors tend to fail as they get hot, but can work fine when they cool down.
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Old 05-11-2017, 05:08 PM
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I got a code for a faulty crank case position sensor $30 part, Cross my fingers.
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Old 05-14-2017, 11:05 AM
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just locating the crankcase positioning sensor is a job in its self, and impossible to see or touch, need a shape shifter with long arms and a eye ball on his knuckle.
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Old 05-16-2017, 12:37 PM
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Default crankcase sensor / fuel pump

Changing the crank case positioning sensor was a bloody knuckle cuss fest. It is located on the drivers side on the top close to the bell housing, but good luck trying to see it of even touching it from the top side.
I had to remove the front drive shaft for better angle from underneath. It has a metal shield covering it, but the 10 mm bolt holds the cover and sensor both. I had to use a box end wrench , witch you can barely get on or turn, might be best done with 2 people, one on top with a swivel socket and extension, and the person on the bottom to guild the socket.

After all that and it didn't solve my problem. Looks like the fuel pump is the culprit, and it must have been heating up and failing. I thought it was heat related to the engine.
I sprayed starting fluid in the intake and it started and and ran just fine.

Now is there a pump to avoid?
I have seen prices from 48 to 300.
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