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  #1  
Old 09-21-2009, 05:29 PM
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Default Touch Up Paint For Wheels

I scraped up my wheel today and went to the dealer to get touch up paint. They said they didn't know what color the wheels were. I needed touchup for my car anyway and it's radiant silver #K-12. I stopped at a collision repair shop a very nice one (they always have BMW, Mercades, Vipers Vets, high end cars) so I figured I'd get some advice. The guy (Gregg) helped out. He said that most Japenese auto makers use one of thier paint colors for the wheels also. In my case 2009 Altima coupe the Silver K-12 is the color for the wheels also. Makes sense. He said Companies like FORD will use different colors and he has a chart for each one. But, for our Altimas the color is K-12. Alittle fine grit paper and a little touch up, we'll see how it works.
Whit
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Old 09-22-2009, 07:02 AM
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I put the first coat of touch up on. It matches but looks touched up. What did I expect right. It looks better than the scrapes and Ill try to smooth it with som scratch remover. Better than nothing, and less than an new wheel. Or an excuse to get new ones!
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Old 12-27-2009, 07:06 PM
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If the color is OK, feather sand the damaged area, masking the rest not to mess it up, finish with 600 or 1200 grit paper. Use bondo to fill any grooves you might have. Sand it smooth and flush. With spray wheel primer give it a coat (thin, very thin coats are the way to go). Then spray your paint, again two very thin coats will work much better than a coarse one. Finally, finish up with two coats of clear lacquer (same brand and also spray).
IMPORTANT: Do wait till one coat dries, before applying the next. Also, don't mess up the car, remove the wheel from the car for painting.
Cheers.
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Old 01-08-2010, 08:36 PM
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hey thanks!
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Old 01-23-2010, 02:36 PM
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Maybe not 600 or 1200 grit paper... that's HEAVY grit for any finish. And you won't have to tape off any area (to prevent messing up elsewhere) except for if you spray. I wouldn't spray anything there...

I did my '94 vette (black) by hand. Spent about 10 weeks on it, with 2000 grit, then rubbing compound 2 passes, sometimes 3, then polishing compound at least 3 passes, every section of the body, many sections redone in the learning process. And you'll learn ALOT, if you have patience...

That included paint chip repair (black is easy to match ), which went really well. I consider myself very near expert on paint finish after this. Biggest gimimck/hide-all is wax in products, some which say they contain no wax . Almost ALL have some petroleum derivative in them - usually wax, which fills swirling and hairline scratching. Do a soapy rinsedown, the wax goes away, guess what's left???

I used many products - some cheap, some PRICEY, and took pics of the entire process.

The phrase 'sterility of work environment' has special meaning when doing finish work. A hair falls out, lint come off a sweatshirt, and you have to start over, not knowing about it until you wipe down. It's nightmare work, but looks great if carefully done, with the right material.
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Traded my '94 vette for an '02 Frontier. What's wrong with me? What's right with me???

Last edited by Schrade; 01-23-2010 at 02:41 PM.
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  #6  
Old 01-30-2010, 02:30 AM
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A Vett for a Frontier, Whats wrong with you! LOL I'm sure you had your reasons. I did use 2000 grit and it did turn out pretty good. Honestly even washing the car the other day I didn't even notice which wheel is scratched anymore. Had the tires rotated and it isn't bad at all. I'm going to touch up the wifes Subaru come spring, same thing, scratches.
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Old 03-23-2010, 07:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sentrado View Post
If the color is OK, feather sand the damaged area, masking the rest not to mess it up, finish with 600 or 1200 grit paper. Use bondo to fill any grooves you might have. Sand it smooth and flush. With spray wheel primer give it a coat (thin, very thin coats are the way to go). Then spray your paint, again two very thin coats will work much better than a coarse one. Finally, finish up with two coats of clear lacquer (same brand and also spray).
IMPORTANT: Do wait till one coat dries, before applying the next. Also, don't mess up the car, remove the wheel from the car for painting.
Cheers.
I know virtually nothing about auto-painting. What do you mean by "feather"?

And also, The touch up paint bottle (w/brush) that my NISSAN dealer sold me is not meant to be applied with any extra clear-coat.. (so I'm told)

You mentioned laquer, what types would be safe to use and where could I get it?

The one thing I DO know (to back up what's already been said) is that yes, companies like NISSAN and other Japanese companies standardize their paints across platforms. The pain on your bumper is the paint on your rims is the paint on your hood.

Which Really makes it easier for everyone.

Thanks for any help.
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  #8  
Old 03-23-2010, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schrade View Post
Maybe not 600 or 1200 grit paper... that's HEAVY grit for any finish. And you won't have to tape off any area (to prevent messing up elsewhere) except for if you spray. I wouldn't spray anything there...

I did my '94 vette (black) by hand. Spent about 10 weeks on it, with 2000 grit, then rubbing compound 2 passes, sometimes 3, then polishing compound at least 3 passes, every section of the body, many sections redone in the learning process. And you'll learn ALOT, if you have patience...

That included paint chip repair (black is easy to match ), which went really well. I consider myself very near expert on paint finish after this. Biggest gimimck/hide-all is wax in products, some which say they contain no wax . Almost ALL have some petroleum derivative in them - usually wax, which fills swirling and hairline scratching. Do a soapy rinsedown, the wax goes away, guess what's left???

I used many products - some cheap, some PRICEY, and took pics of the entire process.

The phrase 'sterility of work environment' has special meaning when doing finish work. A hair falls out, lint come off a sweatshirt, and you have to start over, not knowing about it until you wipe down. It's nightmare work, but looks great if carefully done, with the right material.

I like to use Urethane-based compounds, like NuFinish.

Your opinion?
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  #9  
Old 02-16-2012, 06:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haydencowelle View Post
I learned a lot here. Thanks everyone. But instead of me to do it I prefer the auto shop near in our area. I don't actually have any idea on the color and all but when I read all your inputs I learned so much. Thanks!
... The color for silver-stock OEM rims is "Radiant Silver" K-12... As OP said. They cost about 6 bucks at my dealer and come with a brush and ball point applicator in a 1oz container.
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