#1
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1991 Nissan Sentra GXE 1.6 Starting problem
Last week it acted like it jumped timing. Engine stuttered, jerked and the engine stopped while driving at 30 MPH turning a corner. It briefly restarted with the key for a few seconds but had no power and then quit. I tried starting it again many times untilI ran the battery down. I checked the fuses. I then replaced the distributer cap, rotor, fuel filter and plugs. I am getting spark. I checked the timing chains and they appear to be correct as near as I can tell. With the valve cover off and the lower chain top marker link about one link past the top center. At the same time the lower crank is set at TDC.
The Cam Shafts on the first cylinder appear to have the wings evenly spread outward. On at least one of my TDC rotations the top Chain had the marker links in what appeared to be the textbook position. I am able to get the engine to start very briefly with starting fluid but it stops as if it had no fuel beyond the starting fluid. The fuel pressure after the new fuel filter is between 60-65 lbs. Fuel flow appears to be over half a gallon a minute. Before this it ran very well with no engine issues and great mpg. The gas tank has about 5 gallons remaining from a full tank. I would like to know if the static gas pressure seems correct. I would also like to know if the OBD11 codes are valid on a 1991 vehicle. I have ordered a code reader Actron CP9025. I would welcome any suggestions. Thanks to all. |
#2
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Quote:
Unfortunately I never any similar problems, so I don't have any suggestions. Have you done a compression test?
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#3
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I have not done a compression test in a year. But the last time the numbers were a little low. I started using 20-50 Castrol and that seemed to help the idle in hot weather. The mileage is about 140,000 but up until last week it ran great. Can you verify that 60 lbs pressure in the fuel line with the key on is sufficient to rule out the fuel pump? Thanks
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#4
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I did a compression test and the numbers were all around 132lbs.
Problem seems to be the fusible link in the engine control circuit (in the front next to the battery 25 amp). I have blown a second link and have now replaced the link with a cheaper car fuse until I locate the source of the problem. I did not see the fusible link as bad previously because it had not blown instead it fractured below the bend and appeared ok from the view. The fuse blew both times during the attempt to start the car. The second fuse lasted thru three starts. Once started, I ran all of the systems and the fuse held. The fourth start blew the fuse. So far on the cheaper 25 amp fuse the car has started 3 times and runs and idles well in the driveway. Any ideas what might be drawing so much current in this circuit? |
#5
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you have a dead short somewhere. check your starter and laternator wiring.
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#6
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It appears that I do have an intermittent short. I can not find any direct connection with the alternator and starting circuit with this fuse able link.This fuse able link goes from the battery positive terminal to the fuse able link to the ECCS relay mounted on the Engine computer module and then to the ECM itself. The ECCS relay switch goes to the timing module on the distributor and the Mass Airflow Sensor then to the injectors. I tested the relay and the Mass Airflow sensor and found no fault. I did find a bad connection to the coolant sensor module (not in the same circuit) which showed up when I did the ECM diagnostic. I cleaned the contacts and connector and tested the module both in and out of the car and found it to be ok after the cleaning. When reinstalled the coolant sensor error code cleared. There was no short or fuse blown in that circuit.
I can not find any circuit that would connect the fuse able link to the coolant sensor and provide a dead short. I wiggled all of the wires with an amp meter in line and tried to cause the short again and was unable to get it to do it again in over an hour. Under normal running, the circuit in question pulls about half an amp most of the time with a little fluctuation but never up to an amp after an hour of running at idle and up to 2000 rpm with the air conditioning on. The fuse is a 25 amp fuse. I have driven the car 15 miles in traffic with a number of starts and stops and have not had it happen again. I still know I have an intermittent short but it blows no other fuse and appears to be hard to find. Since the coolant sensor has been cleaned I have not had a short condition. When running the engine sounds good and runs well. All features appear to work properly. There are no misses. I appreciate all of the comments and suggestions I have gotten. My next effort would seem to be to wire in some additional fuses with lower ratings in that circuit and wait for the problem to hit again. Does any one have any other ideas? The only other thought I had was that there was perhaps a thermal shutdown circuit which would blow a main fuse to protect the car from heat damage. I would find this hard to believe as when this happens the fuse blows, the car will not restart without fuse repair. |
Tags |
1991, gxe, nissan, problem, sentra, starting, starting issue |
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