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I have Nissan sentra 2001 GXE 1.8. No engine start, but Battery is OK.
I have code reader and try, but I got " no link " errs message. When I turn key, " engine check " light. I checl all fuse and OK. What is wrong? Thank you. |
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When you turn the key do the engine check light come on. If no you have a broken wire by the battery and fuse box. THE WIRE IS WHITE/BLUE WIRE. Remove the battery and holder to access harness. I hope this helps
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" engine check " light come on. My ECU( ECM ) is broken or..?
I don't understand, " why can't I use code reader?" I try many times, but alway " no connections.." I turn on key. |
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Ok What kind of OBD II reader are you using. Lets start from the beginning. Do you have fuel pressure and or spark. Do you hear the fuel pump run when key is ahead? If no fuel pump or pressure check for battery volts at pump. Place to start.
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1. I have actron CP9185 autoScanner.
2. I changed fuel pomp, but no fuel pressure, no spark( new 4 spark Plug too ). ** I check Ignition Coil and show voltage. 3. I check all fuse. I drived sentra morning and nothings wrong. Then afternoon, I couln't start engine( starter is wroking ). 4 I changed Crank angle sensor too. |
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Sounds like a blown ECM. Sounds like the ECM is not producing the signal to turn thr coils on or the fuel pump as well. Use a noid light and disconnect a fuel injector connector, insert the noid light in the connector and crank engine see if light flashes while cranking.
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Greetings All, Thanks Steamcast. I decided to s;pend some time trying to under the various wiring diagrams and connectors etc. I was able to determine that the Camshaft Sensor has continuity with the ECM and ground. This eliminates the Camshaft circuit since I had already compared the old Camshaft against a new one and got similar results. It was might cold today so I could not spend too much time outside. I hope that the weather will be bit better tomorrow since I would like to get underneath the car and check the Crankshaft sensor and its harness. Once these are out of the way I will reconnect the ECM and start following your recommendations. Just looking forward do you know of any place where I can purchase a rebuilt/old ECM if I finally come to the conclusion that mine is defective? The dealter gave me a ballpark figure of $900. If that is the case I might as well try and purchase a sminilar sentra. Right now a used car dealer has one with 240000km and asking approx $2000. I told him I would offer 1500. I finally realized what those 3 connectors (green, blue, and grey) next to the ECM are for. The green is actually F23. Again thanks very much for your help it is greatly appreciated.
Geoffrey |
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Quote:
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Greetings,
I had a go at the car this afternoon. I tried removing the crankshaft harness but it was too difficult. The car is on an incline(uphill), you are lying on your back at an angle, you hardly have space and you can only feel the connector as you attempt to remove it. I did check the resistance between pins 2 & 3 and got infinity. I made the assumption that if the cranshaft sensor was defective that I should get a code since i did not get one for the camshaft sensor and when I compared that sensor against a new one it seemed to be good. I replaced the Camshaft sensor and reconnected the harness. I reconnected the ECM and checked the voltage at pin 31. I got 12 volts with the ignition off. When I turn the ignition on the voltage stayed at 12 volts. I got my wife to crank the engine while I checked the voltage, it only dropped to around 10 volts instead of zero. I grounded this terminal and got her to try starting but no luck. I also checked for voltage on pins 2 and 3 of the idle motor valve. I no voltgs. this was espected since it gets it voltage from the ECM relayand since that relay is not operating the idle motor cannot function. I also notice that my check engine light was not coming on when I turn the ignition on. I did not have the EC for that that condition and since it was starting to get dark and cold I decided to shut it down for the night. I subsequently was able to find the EC for the check engine light. I will check the appropiate ECM pin/terminal and see if the readings are ok. I am beginning to believe that the ECM may be the culprit. I will also remove the #4 spark plug, ground pin 31 and try starting to see if I am getting a spark. Will probably try that on the weekend. Geoffrey |
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GALLEYNE
You say the engine light do not com on now. Do you have access to the ecm with scan tool. If not search for a broken wire at the fuse block by the battery. Remove the battery and holder and strip the covering of the harness from just by the head light connector look for a White and blue tracer wire it is small, pull on it with a little force and see if comes apart, if it do strip out up furthur and find the other end and make the repair. Let me know how it works out. |
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Go to the knowledge base section and download sentra manual section ec. Go to page ec pg 168 for non california model. Follow the pinouts on those to pages but check at the relay behind glove box. Make sure you have what you are supposed to have if you do not let us know what you do not have. Batt volts on 1, 3,6 and 5 of relay. Terminal 2 should have approx 1 volt and switch to batt volts.
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Greetings !
Hello Streamcast I do have a code reader I can check and see what codes I am getting. Sometimes in the heat of trying to find a problem we sometimes overlook the obvious. I really cannot say if I realized the SES light was working before. It is raining here this afternoon and it is like night outside will try and give it a go tomorrow afternoon. I notice you are also from Canada. I live in Montreal. |
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Greetings,
I had a go at the car this afternoon. I reconnected the ecm module and turn the ingnition on. I noticed that the check engine light was on. I believe the reason it was off the last time reported was I probably did not seat the ecm connector properly. The ECM relay is working fine I can hear the sounds of the contacts. the voltage at pin 31 goes from battery to to less than 1 volt when I put the ignition on. I also see a battery voltage at pins e and 5 of the ecm relay when I turn the ignition on. Here is where the problem seems to lie. I get battery voltage at pin6 of the relay when the ignition is off. When I turn the ignition on the voltage at pins 6 and 7 of the ecm realy go to 0. I disconnected all 4 sparkplugs connector to make certain that no connector was shorting to ground. I turned the ignition on with the same reults. I checked pin 3 of each spark plug connector to ground and got an open circuit. I also checked pin 7 of the ecm relay with the ignition off to ground. I got an open circuit. I ckecked for continuity between pin3 of all 4 sparkplug harnesses. They all checked ok. I also checked from pin3 of the sparkplugh harness to pin 7 of the relay for continuity. I have continuity. It seems that the problem may be the ignition condenser. Can you tell me where to FIND/LOCATE? The fuel pump seems to be going now since I place my ear by the gas tank filler tube with the gas cap off while my wife turned the ignition on. Geoffrey |
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I have not seen the condensor go but if you want to check it it is located in the harness going across the harness between coils and injector connectors, you will see it sticking off and taped up. I think you need an ecm BASED ON THE ELECTRICAL RESULTS ELECTRICAL SEEMS FINE. If the coils do not fire and fuel system not working it is a result of either an input or output miscalculation from the ECM. Poss cam/ckp sensor etc. |
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Go to the knowledge base section and download sentra manual section EC. Go to page ec pg 168 for non california model. Follow the pinouts on those to pages but check at the relay behind glove box. Make sure you have what you are supposed to have if you do not let us know what you do not have. Batt volts on 1, 3,6 and 5 of relay. Terminal 2 should have approx 1 volt and switch to batt volts.
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