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Forums > > 2007 Quest - Front blower not "Blowing"
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  #16  
Old 09-02-2017, 02:03 AM
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If it's climate control, there's a self-diagnostic procedure you can perform. It'll be in the "ATC" chapter of the factory service manual. I do have the procedure for a 2006 Pathfinder, which you can try; it "may" be the same, but I'm not positive. The test self-diagnoses sensors, CAN system, battery voltage and stuck button on the front air control. Fault codes (on the Pathfinder...if any are present) are displayed in the ambient temperature display area (w/ Navi) and displayed in the driver temp display area (w/out Navi). Ignition must be "ON" and ambient temperature must be at least 50 degrees F. Radio must be "OFF."

Self-test w/ Navi:

-On the AV switch, hold the memory "4" button & twist the audio "POWER/VOLUME" knob until the self-diagnostic screen shows on the display.
-Scroll down and select "Confirmation/Adjustment" with the joystick.
-Scroll over and select the "Auto Climate Control" with the joystick to start the self-test.
-The fan bars will flash on the display during the self-test, and then the fault codes will display in the ambient temperature area. The will continue scrolling until the diagnostic mode is exited.
-Exit by pressing the "BACK" button on the AV switch until the display returns to the normal operation screen. HVAC system will be "OFF."

Self-test without Navi:

-Press the AUTO button.
-Twist the fan knob to the left and twist the passenger knob (either way) at the same time.
-Release the knobs and then press the "AUTO" button within 2-seconds to start the self-test.
-The fan bars will flash on the display and then the fault codes will be displayed on the LCD. They will continue to scrolling until the diagnostic mode is exited.
-To exit diagnostic mode, press any button (the system will turn "OFF").

Codes:

02-EE changed by calibration
03-battery voltage out of range
12-passener air mix door motor circuit malfunction
20-BCM not responding to A/C request
21-BCM not responding to rear def request
22-driver air mix door circuit malfunction
30-in-vehicle sensor circuit out of range (low)
31-in-vehicle sensor circuit out of range (high)
38-rear air mix door circuit malfunction
40-ambient sensor 1 circuit short
41-ambient sensor 1 circuit open
44-in-vehicle sensor motor circuit open
46-in-vehicle sensor motor circuit short
50-driver optical sensor circuit open or short
52-passenger optical sensor circuit open or short
56-intake sensor circuit short
57-intake sensor circuit open
80-CAN bus fault
82-driver intake door motor circuit malfunction
90-stuck button
92-mode door motor circuit malfunction
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  #17  
Old 09-09-2017, 07:34 AM
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This is so helpful. Haven't been able to take my car in but last night, I was driving and car started bucking and Service Engine Soon light came on. I parked car and later on dropped it at repair shop. I will share this info with the repair shop. But last time I told them about something I read here, the service advisor never shared it with the repair guy. Drives me nuts. I wonder if the bucking could be related to the temp issue. Pray for me that this repair be under $2000.
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  #18  
Old 09-10-2017, 08:57 AM
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Bucking issues while driving can be any of a number of things, but on VQ engines, cam position sensors are a common problem. Knowing what code was triggered would be helpful.
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  #19  
Old 09-11-2017, 09:58 AM
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Mechanic just called. Said car was overheating. Said, "We are going to start with Thermostat and Gasket." See if that helps. Said the car overheating could be causing the AC not cooling issue too.
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cheereeo aka Brenda
2008 Nissan Quest SL
2002 Nissan Altima SL - (first year of redesign) Constant problems and recalls; Engine Died (Husband's car); Now he bought a Toyota--Has sworn off Nissans and is mad that we bought another for me!
2000 Nissan Altima GLE - Traded in at ~100K
1993 Nissan Altima GLE - (first year they made Altimas) Engine Died at ~100K
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  #20  
Old 09-26-2017, 12:05 PM
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smj999smj - You have been so helpful. I really appreciate you taking the time to add your two cents and advice.

After the mechanic changed the thermostat and gasket--he told me that this was a start and would correct the overheating/bucking issue--but 'let's see if that helps with the AC.' Well, now I have A/C consistently no problem, but again, the digital controls don't seem to be regulating correctly--this has been an ongoing issue for quite some time for me. For example, if I have my auto temp controller set to 78, the van will end up being absolutely freezing. I can turn it up to 80 and it will not make any change--still freezing in the car to the point that I have to shut the AC off for awhile. Same happens in the winter. After 20 minutes of driving, I usually lose the warmness of the heat, no matter how high I set the temperature selector. Any thoughts on this?

if this helps, this is an old thread about the heat issue from two years ago. . . 2008 Nissan Quest 3.5 SL - Heater loses Heat

Last edited by cheereeo; 09-26-2017 at 12:41 PM.
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  #21  
Old 09-26-2017, 02:38 PM
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The factory service manual for your vehicle has a self-diagnostic test in the heating and air conditioning section which I would perform. I would first suspect one of the temperature sensors may be faulty. Nico Club's site has full service manual downloads available for free.
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  #22  
Old 10-02-2017, 07:18 AM
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Sounds like you are overheating the blower motor. Do you always run it on max? When you run it on max, it blows more air, but uses more power (more amps on the wires, which makes more heat in the wires). Running it at a lower setting may be the answer until the real problem is solved (which they may never do). So, do you and/or your wife always run it on max?

Update, sorry, posted this for the A/C-Heat blower issue, which was earlier.

As for the overheating, I agree, the self test would also check the Cooling Fans (radiator).

Last edited by rvargas; 10-02-2017 at 07:26 AM.
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  #23  
Old 10-06-2017, 10:29 AM
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In answer to your question, I generally press the AUTO button and it blows as needed depending on the temp of the car--it usually starts of pretty max. Since it is digital, I just have it set to say 75. Hit Auto and it starts blowing. It should, in theory, slow itself down as the set temperature is reached. Normally, I wo0uldn't press the manual + or - key if I'm using AUTO. Once I press - or +, the AUTO feature shuts off automatically. You can't have it both ways. AUTO or manual.

Here's a video of how it works in my car that I posted to Youtube a couple of years ago:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GO3yaNT9s64
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  #24  
Old 10-06-2017, 11:29 AM
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I understand. I don't think it is a good idea to max out the 9? year old blower speed, either by auto or in manual. I normally run them 3/4 max on my 11 year old car...just to be safer.
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