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  #1  
Old 05-28-2007, 06:03 PM
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Red face Replacing Knock sensor

I need some guidance with replacing my knock sensor (2000 Quest). From other posts, I deduce it is under the intake manifold. Can anyone give me some pointers on how to get to it and back together again ?
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Old 05-29-2007, 08:25 PM
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Replacing the sensor is not that difficult, but it requires some time because there are many parts you have to remove to access the sensor.

- Disconnect the car battery
- Remove the air filter box up to the throttle body.
- Remove spark plug wires (make sure you mark the locations), cruise control pump cable, throttle cable, and EGR valve from the Intake Manifold
- Remove the Intake Manifold Collector Assembly
- Remove the Intake Manifold with the injectors attached. You don't have to remove the injectors rail, just disconnect the injectors harness.
- With all that remove you will be able to access the sensor.

I attached some figures from the service manual to help you locate the sensor and the parts you need to remove.
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Replacing Knock sensor-figure1-gif   Replacing Knock sensor-figure2-gif   Replacing Knock sensor-figure4-gif   Replacing Knock sensor-figure3-gif  
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Last edited by NissanTech; 05-29-2007 at 08:31 PM.
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  #3  
Old 05-31-2007, 04:32 PM
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Default NissanTech Rocks

For any 2000 Quest owners - here is a supplement to NissanTech's post after having spent 15hrs going through the whole process

1. Drain the coolant system before starting; once you unbolt the lower manifold, you could get coolant into your intake valves. Also, to even get to the manifold you will be disconnecting about 8-10 different coolant hoses so save the mess ahead of time.
2. Go ahead and buy new intake manifold gaskets ($50) as you will need them for re-assembly. You might consider replacing your spark plugs while you have the manifold off since it is way easier than when the upper & lower manifolds are in place. At the vary least, pull em out and inspect.
3. Pay attention to the 6 injector insulator rings when removing both the fuel rail and the lower intake manifold; they like to stick to the fuel rail or stay lodged in the mainfold. If you lose one, it will be a major hasssle to replace (I could not find any at the local parts store)
4. After removing the lower intake manifold, there is still a section of piping that goes to the thermostat housing that must be removed before you can get to the knock sensor. Loosen the 2 bolts at the T-stat housing, then the piping assembly bolt on the block on the right side (tranny side). For re-assembly, you will need to re-apply gasket sealer on the block before bolting the t-stat housing back down.
5. Before replacing the fuel rail with injectors intact, flip the rail over and give the exit ports of the injectors a good cleaning with mineral spirits and a old tooth brush.
6. Be patient and label all vacuum, EGV, EVAP, coolant hoses as it will help when putting it all back together. Some of the toughest work is re-connecting the tubing & hoses on the back side of the upper manifold - I've never had to do so much work using a mirror to see what I was trying to attach !

Last edited by mscott5807; 07-01-2007 at 06:20 PM.
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  #4  
Old 08-05-2008, 02:58 PM
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I am looking for the procedure to replace the intake manifold gasket on my 2001 Altima. The knock sensor is also registering a fault code. Is this just an additional symptom that results from the leaking manifold? Or is this a real additional problem?

Thanks,

Terry
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Old 12-08-2010, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mscott5807 View Post
For any 2000 Quest owners - here is a supplement to NissanTech's post after having spent 15hrs going through the whole process

1. Drain the coolant system before starting; once you unbolt the lower manifold, you could get coolant into your intake valves. Also, to even get to the manifold you will be disconnecting about 8-10 different coolant hoses so save the mess ahead of time.
2. Go ahead and buy new intake manifold gaskets ($50) as you will need them for re-assembly. You might consider replacing your spark plugs while you have the manifold off since it is way easier than when the upper & lower manifolds are in place. At the vary least, pull em out and inspect.
3. Pay attention to the 6 injector insulator rings when removing both the fuel rail and the lower intake manifold; they like to stick to the fuel rail or stay lodged in the mainfold. If you lose one, it will be a major hasssle to replace (I could not find any at the local parts store)
4. After removing the lower intake manifold, there is still a section of piping that goes to the thermostat housing that must be removed before you can get to the knock sensor. Loosen the 2 bolts at the T-stat housing, then the piping assembly bolt on the block on the right side (tranny side). For re-assembly, you will need to re-apply gasket sealer on the block before bolting the t-stat housing back down.
5. Before replacing the fuel rail with injectors intact, flip the rail over and give the exit ports of the injectors a good cleaning with mineral spirits and a old tooth brush.
6. Be patient and label all vacuum, EGV, EVAP, coolant hoses as it will help when putting it all back together. Some of the toughest work is re-connecting the tubing & hoses on the back side of the upper manifold - I've never had to do so much work using a mirror to see what I was trying to attach !
Here is the series of emotions I went through after reading the preceding procedure: :wack o:

That's a shame. Wacko smiley did not turn into a smiley because it has a space in it, for some reason.

I like NissanTech's description better. It sounded as if one could get this job done on their lunch break whilst spinning a dinner plate on a stick supported by their forehead.

Last edited by jimmy154; 12-08-2010 at 04:11 PM.
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  #6  
Old 02-11-2011, 10:30 AM
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Hi, I was wondering if one of you wise gentlemen could help me figure out why my intake manifold won't come off. I loosened the bolts in the proper sequence. The first and second put up a lot of resistance. The first I have loosened to the point that it's up beyond where the threads meet the head, but the bolt is just spinning now and I haven't been able to pull it up with pliers. The second bolt broke off immediately. The rest were much more reasonable and came up with no trouble.

I've removed all the various things I was supposed to remove to get the manifold up, except for the coolant bypass tube but there should be some play there because it's connected to a rubber hose. I've left it connected because there's a bolt in an inaccessible spot and I thought I would bring up the manifold and then remove it. But the manifold won't budge.
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Old 07-12-2011, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmy154 View Post
Here is the series of emotions I went through after reading the preceding procedure: :wack o:

That's a shame. Wacko smiley did not turn into a smiley because it has a space in it, for some reason.

I like NissanTech's description better. It sounded as if one could get this job done on their lunch break whilst spinning a dinner plate on a stick supported by their forehead.
That so true !

Some say you should replace the knock wire harness when doing this job but i cant find a new one to buy for a 1996 Quest.

If anyone knows when to get a NEW wire harness let me know. Other wise i'll just try and clean the connections real good.
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