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The price of the sensor is around $75. You may be able to get a better price for an aftermarket sensor.
The sensor is located top/left side of the engine. Removing the air filter duct helps you access and locate the sensor. Once you locate and access the sensor, remove the 10 mm bolt holding the sensor and change the sensor.
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to NissanTech For This Useful Post: | ||
Rubix101 (01-30-2012), Scott the Plumber (12-07-2011) | ||
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Is that picture of the camshaft position sensor or the variable timing sensor?
I have a 0340 code and a non-starting 03 pathfinder, trying to find the camshaft sensor. |
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Hey GrossGary!!
Sorry I didn't get back to you on time, been busy and all. Yes, that is the picture for the camshaft postition sensor. I don't know if your 03 Pathfinder is the same engine as my 04 Quest (3.5L V-6). I suggest that you replace Cam Position Sensor 1, Cam Position Sensor 2, and the Crank Position Sensor as well. If one goes out, the others will go out within days. The only difference from the actual picture is that both (Cam 1 and 2) were on the right hand side of the engine (as if you were looking down on engine with your knees touching the front bumber) -vs- left and right of engine. One was in the middle/right and the other was closer to the back/right by firewall with a pea green (light green) color clamp. The Crank Position is located at bottom front under the front engine by the engine/car frame. All three are easy to get at and my van runs so much better. I got all of my 3 sensors at www.rockauto.com for about $40 on Cam 1, $42 for Cam 2, and Crank sensor for $44. It was cheaper than going to Nissan ($112 per pc) and other auto parts stores ($70). Good Luck on that project...oh and if you come back with a p0011 and p0041 (which means the Cams are advanced), put Seafoam or some oil engine cleaner treatment in the oil gasket to clean out the bad oil (sludge) that is on your varable valve timing. Give it a couple oil changes and then disconnect the ground battery for about 30 min so it can clear the "Check Engine" light. |
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I had the same problem with my 2004 Quest (stalled on th highway!) but a neighbour with an OBD code reader, this forum and the part in stock at a local dealer make me feel a little better. I will tackle it ASAP and post the results.
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I just replace the camshaft position sensor on my 2005 pathfinder , is located on the passenger side behind the motor , you litterly have to get in top of motor. To see it , you need to remove the black cover 10 mm bolts 2 bolts . You can find this part at advanced auto parts online pick up at store look for a promo code to apply for even additional reduced priced . It was $ 57. 00 online applied promo code cost me 41.00 tax included. Thanks hope it can help , try this code a123 see if it works.
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I have a 2004 Quest SE 3.5L with symptoms that would indicate a Cam 1 and/or 2 sensor failure. I'm a plumber, not a mechanic, and not savvy at auto repair and have already spent a good deal of money with mechanics with no results. The internet provided the diagnostics that I needed regarding the VDC light coming on, loss of power in Drive, good power in Low and "hard to start" issues. I understand this thread is old and may not get an immediate response, but I appreciate any help that is given as I also help others on a plumbing forum.
I believe that I have located the Cam 1 and 2 sensors on the right of the engine, center and rear. The center, right sensor seems easy to access, but the rear, right sensor looks like a challenge. Other internet info recommends the Cam 2 sensor to be changes first, since it is usually the culprit. My question is: which is the Cam 1 and which is the Cam 2? Above recommendations suggest replacing both as well as the crank position sensor, but I need to be careful with expenses and will replace them as I can afford them. I could disconnect the air intake to get to the rear sensor and probably reverse action to put it back together, but are there any recommendations before I get involved. Thanks for any replies. SWM |
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The sensors are in awkward place. Frt one easy but rear one you may have to move the air cleaner to make replacement easy. I would replace both cam sensors.
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I got into the same situation here. Engine light came on and took it to the mechanic and they replaced the 2 cam shaft sensors. The light is back on and I dont want to take this back to the mechanic. They might charge me again for the diagnostics. a friend of mine used his reader and it gave a code regarding the cam shaft position sensor. Any ideas on whats going on.
do you think the wires are not connected properly. I wanted to remove them myself and re connect them. But I am having trouble find where they are on the engine and how to remove the adapter from it. Please help. |
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I replaced both of mine with battery disconnected but the engine light is staying on.Do I need to go to Autozone or somewhere and have them reset it?
Was allot of sludge on the sensors I will be gettying some seafoam engine cleaner,changing oil and keeping up with it better now as I am sure that is what made the sensors fail. Thanks for all the tips |
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Thanks Matt,
I was going to Autozone to have the code reset and when I accelerated into traffic got a loud transmisson clunk as before and the engine shut off. Before that the VDC light had gone off and only the check engine light was on.It started right back up ok but had zippo power in drive and not much more in Low.VDC light is now back on.Drove back home I pulled the ECM out and it had exterior rust but the housing to the circuit board was not compromised. If I ever get this thing "right" I am going to sell it asap.One of the most disappointing vehicles I have ever owned
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Dude, I went through a nightmare with those codes. my van would actually stall while driving. especially as I slowed down at lights to turn. I am very lucky that the engine didnt die on the highway. but I had to replace the cam 1 sensor myself. that was a pretty tough job. Van runs fine now. I still have the engine light on. even though I deleted it several times. now its giving me p0021.
What do you mean that you pulled the ECM out? how did you do that and what for? maybe I need to check that also. |
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Sorry for not getting back here sooner but once things got back to normal everything else was backed up so I had to go full throttle to make up for 2 lost days of work on the van.
To quickly review. Codes said bad cam sensor which both are recommended to be replaced. Not a fun job on the back one.I tried to do it without removing the air box duct work but ultimately was the best thing to do. Finally by basically touch and feel got the back one replaced the front one I looked all over for thinking it was in a difficult place also of course but was very happy to see it right there in front of my face (WOW a part they make it where you can reach? That designer is probably fired now Ha ha!). Got everything back in, hooked battery up, went to Autozone who would not clear the error codes but gave the OBD to me and I figured out how to clear it. Figured I had the van fixed and then bam! It cuts off pulling out into traffic,lights go back on, dragged it's butt down the road with nearly zero power, shifted into Low and felt like the transmission was going to tear out like before ,limped it home feeling defeated. Pulled the ECM when I got home as that needed to be checked and was next possible culprit but knew if that was what was wrong we could not afford it and would be the death sentance for the van that we still owe 6k on and I am out of work with no unemployment money(self employed 25 years). ECM housing was not compromised so reinstalled.Was dark by then so decided to sleep on it and try the next day. The next morning I stood there trying to come up with my last plan of action.ECM looked good on exterior and all connections were clean (no corrosion ie) has new cam sensors....so what you going to do? Always check the simple stuff whether it is a pain or not.I have lots of time and no money was the answer. Pulled all the ductwork out again checked for wires I might have knocked off and finally was reached back to the rear cam senor. Was still pulled up I could see (has a big green slide on plug) BUT when I contorted enough to get ahold on it I detected a slight movement between the sensor and plug. Did not seem like enough to affect it but was only shot I had left. I unbolted the 10mm bolt holding the sensor into the engine and pulled the sensor and the plug out together still attached so I KNEW what was going on rather than the installation of putting in sensor and then pulgging it up. There was some play between the two and it had a funky slide type set-up on the plug side that applied pressure as it was seated. I had that fully seated but connection could still be easily pulled apart which I DID NOT like. Now with both sensor and plug in my hand where I could really get to it I got a screwdriver the right width and FIRMLY seated the plugs slide and then put everything back together,hooked up battery, PRAYED, and turned the key on. The VDC light was out Had all the klights off and it has been working perfectly for over a week! Thank you Lord! Is all I can say. Thank you for everyone that helped me on this and hope everyone has a nice rest of the week. We are on the road again!
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From the Quest driver website, someone posted pictures removing the ECM and painting the outside.
Preventative maintenance work done on my ECM to prevent rust | Nissan Quest Forum Community |
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I have a 2004 Nissan Quest with a PO340 Code (Camshaft sensor Problem) I removed the bolt that holds the sensor but don't have any idea how to remove the green connector from the sensor.
Any help will be appreciated, Thank You |
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