#1
|
|||
|
|||
'99 Villager (6V 3.3L Quest engine) knock sensor & crankshaft sensor?
1999 Villager/Quest 6V 3.3L engine with about 160k
CEL error codes are P0325 & P0340 symptoms are drives fine from a cold start until engine reaches normal operating temp then engine will die while idling & has hesitation/shuddering while driving (accelerating, coasting, & decelerating makes no difference). If driven this way for a prolonged period (only been done once) it will not restart after dieing until engine has cooled. First occurrence of symptoms was Saturday but CEL did not come on until Monday night (when it died & wouldn't restart). Since resetting the CEL has not reoccurred but it has not been driven more than a couple blocks at any given time. I'm not worried about the knock sensor code after reading through a bunch of threads. According to hubby ( he was the one who had the codes pulled) the P0340 means the crankshaft sensor is faulty & needs replacing (no biggie, it's a $30 part & we can do it Monday). Fuel filter is clean, distributor is clean (no shavings) Am I missing anything? Is replacing the crankshaft sensor likely to solve the issue? Thanks. |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
try replacing the distributor
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
lol that's where my thinking was headed, it always comes back to distributor it seems. Good thing I'm skeptical of mechanics & internet savvy. Thanks.
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
One more thing...
We did replace the crankshaft sensor since it tested bad. But my question is when it comes to distributors is the cost savings of a non oem distributor worth it or are we just asking for more trouble down the road. What about picking up a distributor from a local Nissan wrecker, they have a 99 day warranty & we just need to make it until March & then we're doing a bunch of work on it anyway so we could put a new oem distributor in at that point if the one from the wrecker went bad. I need to fix this as cheaply as possible.
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
replace it with an oem , why would you want to do the same job twice?
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Most techs do say replace it with an oem one. However I dont have that big of a wallet. I puchased the one from kregan oriley for 200 bucks with discount. Works great and I think it has a good warrenty.
Its not hard to do either. Takes maybe 15 minutes. But if you do decide to go oem go to www.courtesyparts.com they are usually cheaper than the dealer. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Because $440 ($379 + $60 core fee) for an oem from the local dealer is deeper than my pocket goes right now. I don't like having to do a job twice but I'd rather have a roof over my head & a van I can't drive than a working vehicle & no home. Sure having to redo the work in 3 months would be a pain but if it saves us money right now when spare cash is a luxury we don't have then as long as it doesn't do any further damage to the engine I'm all for taking the cheapest route possible.
|
#8
|
||||
|
||||
the only reason i say an oem is that ive seen too many aftermarket distributors fail and the vehicle gets towed into our shop not running or barely running and custs get mad when i tell them their aftermarket distributor is still their cause of their issue
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Nissan master tech brings up a good point. There are items where you want to buy OEM. This is probably one of them. ONe thing to remember is there are plenty of Nissan dealers that sell parts online and normally much cheaper than walking into the local dealer. Your local dealer will charge you full price. I went thorugh this with replacing the lower control arms on my 2004 Quest. The local dealer wanted $400+ for each arm. I bought it through a Nissan dealership online for about $235 each and had my mechanic install it. It sounds like you are pretty handy and can install yourself. Look online for this part.
|
Tags |
33l, crankshaft, engine, knock, quest, sensor, villager |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|