#46
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Getting ready to tackle this problem. Nissan dealer quoted me $1300 to fix it. $2250 to put in a used engine with 42000 miles (plus $2100 labor) or replace with a manufacturers rebuilt for $8000. I think the $67 route sounds better to me.
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#47
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Primary tensioner location
Quote:
The space is very tight and although others have remove additional gear to reach the tensioner, I didn't find it necessary. You will scratch the crap out of your forearms doing this repair no matter what you do... Lastly, get your self a telescoping flexible mirror + high intensity LED flashlight. You cannot see anything you are working on and will do doing everything by indirect vision and feel. Good luck, Jim |
#48
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Quote:
Good luck, Jim P.S. $1300 is a steal. Here in Canada it's almost $2400 once you include taxes |
#49
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My '04 Quest is having the same issue only it doesn't do it all the time - usually when it does happen, it's only right when I start the van, and then once it warms up, it goes away. I'm guessing this is because of the metal expanding with the heat?
Do you think it's the tensioner on mine, or do you think it's the upper guide? |
#50
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I did this job this past weekend.
If you've got big hands, better get ready to have scratched-up, cut-up, swollen hands and arms - the tensioner is not easy to get to. I was able to get it done with a few hiccups. Also FYI, no more clicking!!
Now, for number 2 - the directions in the service manual TELL you to rotate the pully - I just didn't read far enough. DUH!! Anyway, this is THE fix for this issue!! Thank you thank you thank you for saving me TONS of money!! Cheers |
#51
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I did mine recently. Took about 8 hours. I did not do all in same day.
Here is some pix and details in what is involved. Nissan Nut
__________________
05 Armada SEV8 92 Pathfinder SEV6 SAS 3link 35s 04 Quest SEV6 |
#52
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Sweet post Nissan Nut - very cool
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#53
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Well, after a few weeks, the tick has returned.
I now think it's one of the plastic guides - anyone done that repair? |
#54
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Fixed!
I replaced my tensioner and chain guide a few weeks ago. I did all the work through the small access panel, which saved me a ton of work not having to take the entire timing chain cover off.
Like most others, my old guide was broken and had slipped down, which prevented the tensioner from working properly. I ripped the old plastic guide out with a pair of pliers and much force. Some of it actually broke off and likely fell down into the oil pan(?). I figure wherever it ended up, that small amount of plastic is not doing any damage. To make this work, as others mentioned, you have to modify (re: cut) the new guide to fit it into the access panel. I tried several different lengths, trying to preserve as much as I could, but eventually to make it work it had to be cut just below the fat notch that the tensioner makes contact. So basically, you're chopping the 9" guide down to about 4". Take heart though, this still will solve the rattling problem. Tension will be restored. Total cost ~ $105, a weekend, and scratches all over the back of my hands. Here are some pictures. Thanks to all who contributed here! Here's the guide installed (prior to putting in a new tensioner) Note: As others have mentioned I turned the crank about 10-15% toward the rear of the car before unbolting anything, and then I turned it back in the opposite direction afterwards just prior to starting the car again. No timing problems were noticed. Success feels so good! 1900 bucks saved. Last edited by frorule; 03-23-2015 at 12:26 PM. |
#55
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so it did not work?
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#56
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Well, my rattle eventually returned but now it's completely gone again. However, now I have some intermittent subtle knocking coming from that side of the engine which makes me think the plastic guide fell off, possibly partially. I also smell a slight burning odor every time I exit the van. So I would say it didn't work. However, as I mentioned, the rattle is gone. :)
Van is still running like a champ. I'm approaching 200k miles and we're probably going to donate it or scrap it within 12 months. |
#57
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Reviving thread. I'm having issues with the rattle but it's mainly after sitting for about 30min and then started back up. But i also have a whine noise that i assume is the guide. Am i able to replace the guide as well through the access cover?
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#58
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It will be very difficult - I recommend you follow the procedure outlined in the service manual...I've not done it yet due to cost/benefit not being there for me...with 209k miles, I probably won't be keeping it much longer... :)
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#59
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I kinda figured that but never hurts to ask the question. A service advisor said it doesn't sound as bad as most he's heard so I'll just push it off for awhile. Thanks for the info
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#60
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So i just replaced the tensioner and the rattle is way worse. What's the correct way to prime the tensioner?
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Tags |
$67, chain, cure, quest, rattle, slack guide, tensioner, timing, vq35 |
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