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Forums > > $67 Cure for VQ35 Timing Chain Rattle in 05 Quest
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  #31  
Old 07-12-2012, 01:01 PM
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I also read where it was non-interference but talked to two Nissan Dealerships that said it was, hoping somehow they are wrong.......

I definitely turned my over for more than a few seconds as I had been listening to the radio and thought maybe the battery was low so after charging it,I tried it again. Maybe mine wasn't off that much as it really didn't sound funny, just would't start so hoping the valves are ok.

Actually the mechanic won't even work on it, he looked up about changing the timing chain and said it requires a bunch of special tools which he doesn't have. He did say the timing chain switch was listed as 13 hours, so about $600 right there on labor alone.

I am going to pull the covers and see what I can do with that template, I won't know if the valves are bent until I get it in time and start or attempt to start it. I've had a couple other things pop up that I need to take care of so might not get to it until early next week.

It's just really upsetting that a poorly designed tensioner guide that broke has caused all of these issues. I have always owned Toyota's before and never had an issue like this. I think you mentioned you are having other issues with your Quest, what else is going on with it? Are they engine related?
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  #32  
Old 08-06-2012, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x_files View Post
Glad it worked as well for you as it did for me. I'm now at 17,000 miles since replacing only the primary chain tensioner and still no rattle!
I have the same problem in 07 Quest. Just ordered the new primary timing chain tensioner. Worth a try. But, I note the Nissan Service Bulleton only says to replace the Secondary timing chains and tensioner shoes (to do the complete job). It says nothing about the primary chain or tensioner. So, not sure if this will work, as the problem, according to Nissan, is usually in the secondary chains and tensioners. But, I guess it is worth a try, as the repair bill for the complete job is $1,700, according to my local Nissan dealer.
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  #33  
Old 08-20-2012, 12:03 PM
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Default Timing Chain Rattle fixed$ $170 with labor

I can't believe it, but it worked. Replaced the primary timing chain tensioner and the sound is completely gone. Thanks for the original post on this. Only costs $170 with labor to replace, rather than the $1,700 quote by Nissan to replace the other tensioners, remove engine, etc.
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  #34  
Old 09-26-2012, 07:06 PM
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My '05 Quest hit the 100000 mile mark the other day. Now at 22k miles on the timing chain tensioner replacement and doing great

Scott
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  #35  
Old 03-12-2013, 08:03 AM
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$170.00 parts and labor? Who did the work? I also see the TBS says Secondary chain, you only did the primary? If you are looking at the motor, is the primary on the firewall side or the radiator side?

Thanks
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  #36  
Old 04-13-2013, 05:10 AM
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Thumbs up '05 Quest and Another Success Story!!!

I emailed this link to an Independent, and to the Manager at a large chain and asked both if they'd be willing to do the work.

Prior to this, I was quoted $2,400 by the Nissan dealer and slightly less by an Independent.

I asked if the Independent would give it a try, risk free, i.e., Try it, if it works, great, if not, get me an engine.

The independent at first agreed to try it, but then said they would not do the repair because the engine would have other significant issues and they recommend replacing the engine. They said the only reason the timing chain had a problem is because I ran the engine too low on oil, which was true.

Ever try to check the oil level on this engine when hot? You can't. It is badly designed in this regard. Anyway, I drove a 1,400 mile trip straight through (5 drivers) and kept checking the oil (which it was leaking from a seal) but it read "fine"
until I checked it the next morning, when it was just barely visible on the dipstick.

Back to the Independent, I asked, "well, can you do this for approx. $300."

Response: "Yes."

My response, "Ok, let's. And remember, you are risk free. If it doesn't work, get me an engine."

Ind. Response. And then again, reluctance, "Let me think about it."

So I went back to Nissan. They laughed at it (this link).

So I went to the national chain where I buy tires and get brakes.

They submitted it for approval to their District Manager, and got it.

I went back to the Independent since they maintain my 5 cars in all the other areas. They said, "No."

I'm now only 2,000 miles into it, but thus far, no rattle, and the engine is starting more easily. It does sometimes require turning the key for up to 5 seconds, but it was up to 10 seconds, previously.

It is inconsistent. Sometimes, it starts immediately, hot or cold. Sometimes it takes up to 5 seconds, hot or cold. You can turn it off and try again in 20 seconds, and again, it is inconsistent.

So it does still have issues which it would seem are timing related.

I'll post back in a few months, or sooner, if something goes wrong.

THANKS FOR THE TIP!!!!!!!!!!!

Last edited by 3Quests; 04-15-2013 at 05:24 AM. Reason: typos, vague statements
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  #37  
Old 04-14-2013, 04:58 PM
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So you meant the timing chain guide / tensioner issue can cause some delay when the car is being started?
I did not find this before my repair.
Mine has been running well since the tensioner replacement 9K miles ago. Not too bad for $70 and a couple of hours.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Quests View Post
I emailed this link to an Independent, and to the Manager at a large chain and asked both if they'd be willing to do the work.

Prior to this, I was quoted $2,400 by the Nissan dealer and slightly less by an Independent.

I asked if the Independent would give it a try, risk free, i.e., The independent at first agreed to try it, said they would not do the repair because the engine would have other significant issues and they recommend replacing the engine.

I asked, "well, can you do this for approx. $300."

Ind Response: "Yes."

My response, "Ok, let's. And remember, you are risk free. If it doesn't work, get me an engine."

Ind. Response. "Let me think about it."

So I went back to Nissan. They laughed at it.

So I went to the national chain where I buy tires and get brakes.

They submitted it for approval and got it.

I went back to the Independent since they maintain my 5 cars in all the other areas. They said, "No."

I'm only $2,000 miles into it, but thus far, no rattle, and the engine is starting more easily. It does sometimes require turning the key for up to 5 seconds, but it was up to 10 seconds, previously.

It is inconsistent. Sometimes, it starts immediately, hot or cold. Sometimes it takes up to 5 seconds, hot or cold. You can turn it off and try again in 20 seconds, and again, it is inconsistent.

So it does still have issues which it would seem are timing related.

I'll post back in a few months, or sooner, if something goes wrong.

THANKS FOR THE TIP!!!!!!!!!!!
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  #38  
Old 04-15-2013, 05:26 AM
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Default No, it was already slow starting. It is actually a bit better

Before the Tensioner repair, the engine often required cranking for up to 10 seconds before it would start. I think there is an O2 Sensor that is bad. But it is something ridiculous like $600 to fix so I'm holding off.
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  #39  
Old 04-15-2013, 10:12 AM
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I had the same problem, except it wouldn't start at all when engine was warm. Replaced the camshaft position sensor (the angled one closest to the radiator) and the problem went away.
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  #40  
Old 07-28-2013, 07:30 PM
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Default thanks to all!

greetings all,
I'm not a regular to Nissan forums since I drive another make of vehicle but......I am the favorite brother-in-law amongst all my sister-in-laws since I'm mechanically inclined. My sister-in-law's 2004 Nisan Quest has the issue posted here, the nylon guide slid down the tensioner arm and she had the timing chain noise (plus the hydraulic tensioner is more or less ruined too). The info here has been wonderful in helping me make the repairs to her vehicle. Thanks to all for their wealth of knowledge. I hope to get things buttoned up this week and we'll see how things go. if there is any info my adventure could provide, ask away! I'd gladly post pics.


Unfortunately I don't own a vacuum pump so I'm still scratching my head about how I will recharge her a/c system correctly, other than to pump in some R-134A and hope the air that is now present in the lines wont screw things up too much. The low pressure line had to come off to get the cover out, or at least I could not figure how to get it out without removing it.

Mike
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  #41  
Old 11-05-2013, 09:29 PM
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Default Has the "halfa$$ed" tension guide repair held up?

Hi Shampooguy, just wondering if your brilliant repair idea of cutting a new guide in half and simply snapping it in place has held up? If so, how many miles has it been? Do you suspect this is a permanent repair or simply stop gap? Thinking of trying it myself but wanted to check with you before I attempted it. Nissan Canada already let me know that it's not a warranty item (or a defect for that matter) so I'm on the hook if I need to fix it.

I'm hoping it has done the trick -- otherwise I'm about to be raped by a Canadian stealership if I have to go with the "real" repair.

Thanks,
Jim
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  #42  
Old 12-10-2013, 07:41 AM
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Question Updated info for folks making their own half-assed repairs

I just finished repairing the broken guide using a similar idea to shampooguy. The repair itself isn't bad BUT it becomes a major hassle if you have the timing skip.

Good news is the Quest is a NON-interference engine so even if you screw it up (as I did initially), I don't think you can break anything but your mileage may vary...

A few points I learned along the way which should save you time/stress and energy:
1) When you are removing the tensioner, know that it's possible that the piston and the spring will fly out as the wire that's supposed to keep the piston in place can fail. Either stuff the opening with a clean shop rag OR be prepared to fish them out with a magnet on a string/wire. I had to do the later and while your heart sinks when you realize what's just happened, it wasn't that hard to get the pieces out (they only drop down a 6-8 inches into a cavity and are retrievable). No need to panic...

2) To release the chain tension on the tensioner side of the engine, spin the crankshaft 20 degrees clockwise (push towards the rear of the van when viewed from below) BEFORE you remove the tensioner. If you don't do this before hand, you will be temped to do this once you remove the 2 bolts holding in the tensioner. Why? Because it's tough/impossible to remove it if the chain is still tight. If you move the crankcase with the tensioner unbolted, you WILL be resetting the timing and as you'll see below, this is not a fun job.

3) Resetting the timing requires the templates mentioned in the earlier post. These things are a life-saver. Print them out then go all "arts and crafts" on it to make the 2 cut outs. You will need to remove the cam covers and even after you remove the 5 bolts, they may not budge as the gasket sealer holds on tight. Using a small pry bar, you should be able to GENTLY wedge the covers off using the gap between the extended "arm" and the timing chain cover. Once you get it started, you should be able to use a scarper or small screwdriver to finish the job. Once the covers are off, wipe up the excess oil with a clean cloth and place the paper cutouts on the cams. Bank 1 is the rear cam and this is the only one that skips once the tensioner is off the engine. Bank 2 and the crank seem to stay in perfect alignment so you really only need to worry about lining up the 2 cams (you don't need to check/confirm TDC).

4) If the timing is off because you you didn't read point 2, you will need to skip a bunch of teeth to get it back in alignment. I found that it skips easily when I moved the crankshaft clockwise and not so much counter-clockwise (or at least not in a very controllable way). To get everything re-aligned, I simply cranked clockwise until I got close, then I cranked counter-clockwise to align Bank 1 with the dowel hole on the cover and checked how far off Bank 2 was from the same mark. Then repeated until I had it properly aligned. I found it easiest to use a dental mirror and a flashlight to check. Oh, and the sound of skipping, while not pleasant is not brutal either. You will hear it "click" as it jumps and often times it will click multiple times.

Oh, and I was able to make the repair using a variation of shampooguy's idea and if it works, I'll let the group know. Might be able to save everyone a ton of money and it's likely something a shade tree mechanics could install in less than a hour...

Good luck!
Jim

Last edited by JimmyNewtron; 12-24-2013 at 06:01 AM. Reason: improved the answer
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  #43  
Old 12-20-2013, 11:18 PM
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OK, stupid question time because I haven't done mine yet and I'm not "picturing" it.....in #2 you say to turn the crankshaft 20 degrees clockwise (pushing towards the rear of the van)................this it from the bottom?

Any pics of the new cut guide?

Thanks
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  #44  
Old 12-24-2013, 05:52 AM
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Default Which way to turn the crankshaft

No stupid question, only stupid answers
Yes, my perspective was from lying under the car. Not sure you could even do it from above. I also suggest you remove the plastic lower fender cover for better access. To remove the fasteners, simply use a flat screwdriver to pry up the middle "button" and they should release. Good luck
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  #45  
Old 12-24-2013, 02:51 PM
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Sorry, 1 more.....is the tensioner and guide in question on the firewall side or radiator side of the engine (front or back)?

Thanks
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