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-   -   2005 altima no start (https://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/altima/29927-2005-altima-no-start.html)

paulorlo 08-30-2017 06:50 PM

2005 altima no start
 
After sending ECU out for repair in March of 2017 and car running well since then.
My wife tried to start the car this morning and it would crank but not start. No spark and no injection pulse. Unable to connect scanner OBD port, comes up with link error. No check engine light illuminated and cooling fans both running with engine cold. Sent ECU back to original repair company. Could something else cause these symptoms ?

bennyb53 08-31-2017 01:11 AM

A Crank No Start condition can be caused by many things. Its literally a bumper to bumper issue. It can be a component or electrical issue. Components such as fuel pump or fuel pump relay or fuel pressure regulator, starter or starter relay, ignition circuit and relay, ignition switch or relay, ECM relay or the ECM itself and PNP switch. MAF sensor, camshaft/crankshaft sensors. Also blown fuses and battery ground connection at chassis and engine block, etc. Since ECM has already been removed you won't be able to do diagnostic work until you get it back.

According to you there was no dtc codes means the issue is not monitored by the computer such as fuel pump and relay, ignition switch and relay, ECM relay, starter and battery including ground connection.

smj999smj 08-31-2017 01:19 PM

Sounds like either a bad ECM relay or a bad ECM by your description. Fans running all the time is a fail safe mode for the ECM.

paulorlo 08-31-2017 03:00 PM

Thank you so much for your replies! That is what makes this forum so good.
The company that originally repaired the CPU told me if I paid for postage to get the computer to them there would be no charge to test it and repair it again. So
I thought it would be worth the postage to eliminate that part as being the problem. We talked about chips going bad on occasion. Do 2005 Nissan Altima's
have a higher CPU failure than other vehicles? I have never owned a car that had a problem originating from the computer. As a foot note car had a valve cover that was after market made in china. It was burning a quart of oil each 370 miles.
Turns out Dorman and other after market valve covers are not pneumatically sealed properly (PVC baffling) and the valve cover allows oil to be sucked into the intake manifold and/or air intake tube. After watching a you-tube video and finding oil in the air intake tube and spark plug wells I bought a genuine Nissan valve cover. No more oil burning!

Soapmyster 08-31-2017 05:10 PM

Hmm that is interesting.
I would say your ECM is at fault. The cooling fans are a dead giveaway, and your lack of datalink

paulorlo 09-12-2017 02:39 PM

I had sent out the cars computer for repair and today I got it back. While it was out for repair I removed the battery tray and found that the ground wire going to the motor had corroded free from its attachment. Replaced with OEM grounding strap that goes from the neg battery post to the frame and continues on to the motor. I also replaced a second grounding strap that connects the motor to the frame in that general ares. The CPU came back Coil/ injector controller overheated- changed said part. Installed the CPU and it has the same symptoms. Car cranks but will not start. Both cooling fans turn on / no spark/ power to fuel injectors/ no injector pulse and cannot communicate with CPU using same scan tool that I have used before. Scanner says link error. Sooooooo frustrating! What could cause the computer to over heat internal parts right from the installation of the part?

paulorlo 09-14-2017 01:26 AM

Any suggestions on what could cause a repaired ECU to power up and overheat instantly upon reinstallation?

Wk1102 11-19-2018 11:27 AM

Did you ever figure this out?

Maxmil982 01-05-2019 01:24 AM

Please update with what finally fixed this, im having the same issue

JLongoria 11-03-2019 01:27 PM

My car is doing the exact same thing, what did you eventually do to remedy the problem? Any help would greatly be appreciated, thank you.

Maxmil982 11-04-2019 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JLongoria (Post 108136)
My car is doing the exact same thing, what did you eventually do to remedy the problem? Any help would greatly be appreciated, thank you.

For mines...the root was a bad ground cable that was located underneath the battery tray and connected to the transmission. This caused the crank, no start condition and repeated blowing of the 20a ecm fuse. I sent the ecu off to a repair company and they confirmed the ecu was indeed fried and unrepairable. I ended up searching Ebay for a used ECU that had the same model number (as only the same model ECU is compatible) and taking that replacement ecu and the car to the dealer to be reprogrammed, about $150.


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