2002 Pathfinder Severe Engine Damage

[twofouroh]

These screws are in the intake tract. Raised heads and lock wires will decrease airflow and power. The problem is that all of these screws are supposed to have a locking compound on them but some entire lots did not. Apparently Nissan didn't catch the problem for some time, and whenever a bad lot came through, you'd get however many vehicles that were destined to have this problem. My 01 Pathfinder engine, which was the first year for the 35 in the US, has no loose screws, so it isn't a design problem that was fixed later, either. Apparently just bad QC on these screw lots. I'm amazed they don't have a replacement campaign going yet. Maybe it's just cheaper to replace the ones that fail, AND the owners realize that it's Nissan's fault, AND beat up the dealership until they replace it.

[whitwlf]

Thank You Twofouroh for your kind input. Do you or anyone else know if the 05' engine could possibly be affected. I have my wife worried now. oops. mike

[twofouroh]

Well, anything's possible, but I haven't heard of any of them after 03. If you're at all handy with a wrench, taking the upper plenum off to look at them is fairly easy. Taking them off (ONE AT A TIME!!) to put some loctite on them is even easier.

[Bow_Tied]

Hello, new here - great site good info. I am pretty nervous about this problem. Anyone have any idea how frequent the issue is? Is this going to eventually happen to every pathy owner or just the ones that had no threadlocker on the screws from the factory? What are talking here, 5% of engines? 50%? 99%?

If I understand correctly, the "power valves" are the same thing as the "swirl valves", right?

Access to the power valve blade mounting screws is a matter of taking the "top" off of the intake, right?

I read that the screws are brass, what material is the shaft they thread into?

What Loc-Tite are you guys using? 222? 242?

Thanks for the help!

[Bow_Tied]

I did the maintentance myself, here is the write-up.

http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showtopic=17104

[Chief_engr]

Great work on the fix Bow_Tied.

I'd like to add that the industry standard for throttle plate bolts is to use a fairly soft material and centerdrill the threaded end around .060". After the bolts are installed you use a press the squish the end making it impossible to back out. The bolt end needs to be ground off to remove the bolt!

Why Nissan would deviate from this and depend upon thread lock is beyond me. They really should own up and fix this one.
:innocent:

[koty_dog]

hey all,

it might be worth looking to the Better Business Bureau, as Nissan is a member of the BBB. i went all the way to arbitration, at which time Nissan decided to settle and covered the cost of my engine repair. i did have to sign a release stating that they are not at fault and their financial compensation is a one time event.

good luck,

[Bow_Tied]

Chief Engr:

Makes a lot of sense what you are saying. These screws look like brass but I think they are actually zinc-dichromate coated or similar. Another poster said they were magnetic. I was thinkg yesterday I should have used a centre punch on the end of the screw or something. Hopefully the loc-tite holds...

[MerlotLE]

Originally Posted by koty_dog

hey all,

it might be worth looking to the Better Business Bureau, as Nissan is a member of the BBB. i went all the way to arbitration, at which time Nissan decided to settle and covered the cost of my engine repair. i did have to sign a release stating that they are not at fault and their financial compensation is a one time event.

good luck,

If by chance this happends to one of us and we decide to take the same route as you have done, can we reference your arbitration case as to show a history of this happening- I guess sort of similar to a supreme court ruling or something? My dealer thinks I'm nuts for asking to have the screws looked at. As my car is under the Nissan extended warranty, I'm sort of hoping my engine blows up so I can make them pay for a new engine. This sort of thing from a car company is absurd but it does go to show if you fight for it, it could work in your favor. Can you tell us how long the whole ordeal took you?

The other thing I'm thinking of, lets say we open the intake (while car is under warranty) and locktite the screws, and something happens - who is at fault and would Nissan play stupid and blame it on you?

[rangeroverhse8]

Hi there. I am a 2004 Pathfinder LE owner and have been reading different sites and postings about this power valve screw problem facing the VQ35 engines. I know that the power valve screws are the main culprit here BUT after reading Bow_Tied's posting on how to do the job with the power valve screws, he mentioned about the swirl valve's in his intake manifold, which is just below the lower intake manifold collecter/power valves. Do we need to be concerned about these swirl valves located inside the intake minfold, and the possibility of THOSE screws falling out as well? Or do we only need to be concerned about the power valve screws? The reason I am asking because its alot more work to take the intake manifold out, and there are more gaskets to replace, but if the possibility of those screws are likely to fall out as well, I think we should be concerned about those too.. wouldn't you say? Read Bow_Tied's posting on how he did his power valve screws, and scroll down to where he is talking about his swirl valves if you need to see what I am mentioning about. Any comments or thoughts about this would be very appreciated. Thanks very much.

By the way... I have a Nissan FSM and I cant point out where it is exactly, if anyone needs me to. If anyone else need a picture of this, message me. Thanks.

[trooperguy90]

What is the exact procedure to check these?

[fredon500]

The problem still exist with 2004 Path as I just had both heads replaced on my engine because of these screws. 2 of them went in the engine's head. They are replacing the heads by are putting the old valves back in.

[vinal]

where can i buy 02 pathfinder throttle body

[sergey85]

Nissan oem parts 3-5% discount check this thread out give him a call. he is giving free shipping for anything 100 or over. or try your local junkyard or car-parts.com

[j.j.]

This thread does not give me a warm and fuzzy feeling. I currently have an 02' SE that seems to be running fine despite the constant SES light. It's been about 2 years but one day after a fill-up, I restarted the truck only to hear a loud tapping sound. I shut the truck off and checked the oil and fluids to no avail. I had no idea what it was so I restarted the truck and attempted to drive it to the local dealer. On the way, the noise eventually stopped and has not returned for the past 2 years. I chalked it up to bad gas that was present at the bottom of my tank. Could it have been more? Dunno, but I suspect I would've had more problems by now.

I just don't know what to do with this truck. It needs alot of maintenace work at this time, the SES light won't go off and stay off, and it sounds like the parts needed to keep the light of will cost me about $800- $1K (MAF and 4 O2 sensors + labor). Now I read about the 02' models having this "screw" problem.

I'm beginning to think I should trade and bail on my Pathy. Any thoughts?

JJ

[sergey85]

have u tried pulling the code/s to see what its telling is wrong? autozone or advance auto parts stores will do scans for free, so u might want to give that a try. i would assume or replace anything untill find out what the computer is telling you.

[Bow_Tied]

Originally Posted by j.j.

This thread does not give me a warm and fuzzy feeling. I currently have an 02' SE that seems to be running fine despite the constant SES light. It's been about 2 years but one day after a fill-up, I restarted the truck only to hear a loud tapping sound. I shut the truck off and checked the oil and fluids to no avail. I had no idea what it was so I restarted the truck and attempted to drive it to the local dealer. On the way, the noise eventually stopped and has not returned for the past 2 years. I chalked it up to bad gas that was present at the bottom of my tank. Could it have been more? Dunno, but I suspect I would've had more problems by now.

I just don't know what to do with this truck. It needs alot of maintenace work at this time, the SES light won't go off and stay off, and it sounds like the parts needed to keep the light of will cost me about $800- $1K (MAF and 4 O2 sensors + labor). Now I read about the 02' models having this "screw" problem.

I'm beginning to think I should trade and bail on my Pathy. Any thoughts?

JJ

The work to do the power valve screws is not hard and is worth a check. It is less than $100 in gaskets, you shoudl check it out - if it was a screw, you may have got lucky - the next screw could do a lot of damage.

[j.j.]

As i see it, the following things need to be done or will need to be done in the next year or two:
1. MAF
2. O2 sensor x 4
3. Plugs
4. Coils ??
5. Power valve Screws
6. All fluids (besides oil)
7. Fuel filter
8. All Belts

I simply do not have enough time to do these things myself, so we're talking about thousands of dollars worth of work.

Thanks for the comments,
JJ

[leechanin]

Originally Posted by j.j.

As i see it, the following things need to be done or will need to be done in the next year or two:
1. MAF
2. O2 sensor x 4
3. Plugs
4. Coils ??
5. Power valve Screws
6. All fluids (besides oil)
7. Fuel filter
8. All Belts

I simply do not have enough time to do these things myself, so we're talking about thousands of dollars worth of work.

Thanks for the comments,
JJ

1. You can easily do it by yourself
2. Not sure about front ones, but those after cat should be also easy, but not as easy as 1)
3. when you do 5) you do this one easily
4. not sure here
5. see the link at npora about DIY
6. I bought and changed all the fluid by myself, just cost of oil.
7. Did it when I did 6), get under the car, it's on the right side above the rear diff
8. I leave that to profs

So, although it sounds expensive, it is still doable by amateurs like myself

[j.j.]

1. MAF --> So far I've found no reason to do (crosses- fingers)
2. O2 sensor x 4 --> Only one in the rear needs to be replaced but not doing it
3. Plugs --> Completed myself
4. Coils --> So far so good. Have not replaced!
5. Power valve Screws --> Still contemplating this
6. All fluids (besides oil) --> So far I've done the rear differential
7. Fuel filter --> Completed by myself
8. All Belts --> Completed by myself

So, I still need to complete the transmission fluid, front differential, power steering, and cooling system.

JJ