Evaporative Emssision Control Circut is Open?

[white01ss]

My 2005 Pathfinder threw a code this morning, so I hooked it up to the scanner and it said " Evaporative Emission Circut Open" can anyone shed some light on what this might be?

As well, is a front CV shaft on the 4wd model covered under powertrain warranty??

[NissanTech]

Do you know the exact number of the code? Here a list of all the codes: Nissan OBDII Code Chart

[white01ss]

NO, me being the smart guy I am I didn't write it down, But I will scan it again, and get the code.

I appreciate the chart.

Thanks!

[white01ss]

The code was P0447. Can you tell me where the Evaporative Emission Canister vent control is located?

[tech22]

on the cannister above the fuel tank.

[white01ss]

Originally Posted by tech22

on the cannister above the fuel tank.

Do you have drop the fuel tank?

[sergey85]

i dotn believe so but check out the service manual Knowledgebase - 2005 Frontier - Nissanhelp.com and then click on engine control. search for the code or scroll down and you should see it. it tells u how to test it and where its at

[white01ss]

Found it, I really appreciate all the help from everyone.

[sergey85]

no problem, keep us updated

[xterramexico05]

i believe that the pathfinder will have the canister on the same side as the xterra so here are some tips to remove the carbon canister purge valve:
remove rear driver side tire
remove the plastic inner wheel protector.... screws and plastic locking fittings.. note if you have never removed these type of plastic locking things,, they are a one piece -this means that they will break if you try to remove the center round plastic visible to your eye.... use a small flat head to move the center round plastic out aprox 1/8 of an inch..... once that piece is out a little, you can use a flat head to pop the whole piece out..... to understand how those little plastic pieces work, on the rear plastic bumper you should have one under the truck that is visible and if you take that one off you will understand how they work.....
to remove canister , you need a long socket extension.... if you dont have one, the long bar that comes with your jack will hold the socket in place and using plyers you can turn it counter clock wise to loosen nut holding canister in place.....
the most fragile piece on the canister is the electrical connector that is in the corner...... remove that one carefully.... then the fuel vapor line right next to it... the hose attached to the purge valve will slide off pretty easy...... and also disconnect the electrical plug that attaches to the purge valve ..... the last hose is the one in the middle of the carbon canister...... its a little tricky but pushing on the 2 plastic locking things and pulling out slowly....

if you purchased a new purge valve, be very carefull.... look at the end wich goes into the canister... you will see 2 plastic flaps that you must be carefull when pulling old purge valve out... DO NOT ... try to force by pulling out the valve.... you will simply be damaging the plastic that holds it in place.... the valve unlocks counter clockwise.... the trick is that very gently to find the 2 openings that have to match to release the valve.... i damaged mine but used gasket seal when i replaced it to keep it air sealed... so far its working fine.....

your so called broken valve might not be broken....there is a spring inside that will get stuck or be twisted from a tiny rock.... blow into the valve opening to get some of the dust or dirt out..... then i used brake cleaner to soak the inside of the valve with q-tips no the walls and i forced the q tips between the spring in many areas... also you need to clean between the O ring that is attached to the spring... i used a small tiny flat head to move forward the oring pushing the spring forward out of the way.......... keep cleaning untill you dont have a dirty q tip... now to test the bad valve...... you need 2 wires with clips on the end.... holding the valve with the 2 electrical clips facing you... and with that end being 12 noon.... meaning that the electrical connector on the valve is facing you .. the rest of the valve is towards the ground.. take the 2 wires with your car battery... place the negative line to the right side of the valve connectors... then positive from battery to left side conector.... if it was dirty , you will hear the valve work the second you touch the positive to the left side connector on the valve ......

back to the carbon canister..... if you have dirt or dust in the area where the carbon canister purge valve is attached,,,,, try using a shop back to clean loose dust or dirt... i also used a compressor to blow into the center fitting on the carbon canister wich made the dust and dirt come out of the purge valve opening....... dont blow into purge valve opening or you will force the dust and dirt into carbon canister damaging it.... dont blow air into the line on the oposite side of purge valve fitting..(next to eletrical connector) only blow into the almost center fitting of the carbon canister......

also the hose that you removed from the purge valve is your problem..... and its only aprox 10 inches long.... follow it to the inside of the trucks frame... go ahead and pull it out..... wash out the inside... also figure out how to blow some air into the frame fitting since all the dust or dirt came from that area..... and also try to figure out what type of filter you can attach to that hose instead of it going into the frame..... good luck.... remember to use lock tite on the nut that holds the carbon canister in place...