#1
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2005 Tranny
I did the bypass on the cooler. I'm wondering if I didn't get to it early enough. My tranny is beginning to slip. When I start out there is slippage and then a bang. In fifth it surges as if it were lugging out. I finally got a mil light. I don't have the exact # but it said clutch solenoid. Is that because of the contamination from cooler. I put some sea foam in it and it seemed to help. I will be changing the filter and fluid today. Now that's another question ? When I changed the fluid last time The boy's at Autozone gave me Maxlife a synthetic fluid. This time I went to AZ I was told that Maxlife didn't meet the requirements. What the hell? What am I supposed to use?I'll check out other threads.
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#2
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Valvoline Maxlife full-synthetic ATF is compatible for use in Nissan-matic Type "J" and "S" applications. It's good stuff and I've logged a combined 200,000+ miles using Maxlife in my '06 and '08 Pathfinders. Nissan-matic "J" ATF is made by Castrol and is the same as Castrol Transmax Multi-import ATF. Most (if not all) transmission fluids that meet the JASO-A1 Japanese specifications will work fine in your transmission and that includes most of the synthetics on the market (Amsoil, Royal Purple, to name a couple of more that will work). For proof that it is compatible with Nissan-matic "J," try this link:
content.valvoline.com/pdf/maxlife_atf.pdf As far as your transmission solenoids, there are seven of them, along with the transmission control module (TCM), mounted to the transmission valve body. Nissan doesn't sell the solenoids separately, however, you can sometimes locate them on the aftermarket with some searching on the web. Nissan only sells the TCM/valve body as an assembly. Do you have a contamination issue that caused the solenoid to fail? That's hard to say unless you find evidence of engine coolant-engine oil cross-contamination. This would show up as anything from white streaks to a pink-colored custard on your transmission dipstick or in the pan. It could be just that the solenoid, itself, failed or there is a shorted or open circuit to that solenoid. The trouble code can be used to search for the diagnostic procedure located in the factory service manual for your vehicle; NiCo Club's site has free, downloadable, Nissan factory service manuals at their website. Another problem I've seen is that sometimes sludge will develop under the TCM, where it mounts on the valve body. When you remove the TCM, there are electrical contacts that may be affected by the sludge. It can be cleaned in suck cases, but takes a lot of care and patience to do so. BTW, there is no filter inside your transmission. Jatco automatic transmissions typically have just a metal screen that is usually not replaced during a service. The idea is that there is enough debris in the fluid to restrict or clog the flow of fluid through the screen, then the trans needs an overhaul, not a service. That's what they told me when I took the A/T course at Nissan's training center, years ago. Also, if you drop the pan, you are supposed to replace all of the trans pan bolts when you install the pan; the reason is that there is a sealer applied to the threads of the bolts. I also highly recommend you use a genuine Nissan trans pan gasket. |
#3
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Wow
What great information SMJ999SMJ. I guess I didn't catch the contamination in time. the fluid was kind of milky. I flushed it by pulling the hose and running close to a dozen quarts of inexspensive fluid. I then topped it off with the maxlife. This time I did the same thing but I only used castrol transmax multivehicle atf. I test drove it and seems to help a little so far. If I put the shifter in first gear it shudders pretty bad. When I put it in Drive it begins to slip and then it bangs and begins to go. Going forward I will follow up with the info that you gave me. With any luck I will save this transmission yet. I have error codes 7641 and 7621. I can't seem to find them when I search codes.
Last edited by shadetree21; 10-03-2017 at 09:24 AM. Reason: add a question |
#4
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If the inexpensive trans fluid was not compatible with Nissan-matic "J," that could ruin the torque converter on these transmissions.
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#5
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Cheap fluid
I don't believe it's compatible but by itself it should do fine. I have problems with my direct clutch solenoid. My total flush, somewhat total and a 1/2 pint of sea foam seems to have loosened things up a little. It's shifting smoother and fifth gear is no longer surging. So far so good. Now I need to address codes.These codes are P1764, P1762. If any one can help point me in the right direction I would appreciate it. Thanks again.
Last edited by shadetree21; 10-03-2017 at 06:58 PM. Reason: grammar |
#6
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If you had coolant contamination, chances are either the direct clutch solenoid is bad or there is sludge under the TCM, or both. Both of those codes are direct clutch solenoid codes. If you can find them, the solenoids tend to run around $80-120 each. You could try dropping the valve body, replacing the direct clutch solenoid, R&R the TCM from the valve body and carefully cleaning the electrical contacts, clean out the inside of the trans pan and reassemble, crossing your finger that it'll fix your problem. The big question is "will it work" and "will the other solenoids later fail because of the previous contamination?" Replacing the valve body assembly is another option, but I doubt you want to invest $650-ish dollars for a reman or around $950 for a new, Nissan part.
There was a technical service bulletin for the P1764, but I still feel your issue is more contamination-related than the issue addressed in the TSB. The TSB basically has you check for bent pins in the trans harness and if there are none, instructs to replace the TCM/valve body assembly. These links will give you a little bit more information, including a link to the TSB. The factory service manual will give you diagnostic information on those codes; we have some individual chapters in our "knowledge base" or you can get full manuals at Nico Club's site. P1764: https://www.autocodes.com/p1764_nissan.html P1762: https://www.autocodes.com/p1762_nissan.html |
#7
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I'm finally ready to begin my R&R. I'm going to drop the pan and try to remove any sludge that might be there. Check the electrical connections. C lean the connections and fill it back up. Since my last post the tranny has changed it's attitude. Now it acts as if it has a centrifugal clutch. When it warms up it begins to shift again. When I come to stop and I accelerate the trranny hesitates and then boom and now I can accelerate through the gears. If I keep my foot in it it will go big boom with a little tire squeal after I stop.
Last edited by shadetree21; 11-03-2017 at 10:53 AM. |
#8
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I ran across this video a little while back concerning broken pins on the RE5R05A valve body and how to repair them. Apparently, it can be the cause of several codes and issues, depending on which pin breaks and it's a fairly common issue:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAveITCubOQ&t=125s |
#9
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No pin breaks
Well, I ended up replacing the TCM. It wasn't too bad. So now I have a car that only shifts 1st to 3rd. The control console reads 3rd when it is in D. Neutral doesn't show at all.Third shows up as 2nd. Second reads 2nd and 1st reads as nothing. I have no idea where to go from here.Would a TCM do this? The car shifts 1st thru 3rd now, whereas it wouldn't before. I replaced the TCM with a remanufactured one. Is it possible the TCM I bought is bad? I have read threads about having to reprogram the TCM. Is that going to be my problem?
Last edited by shadetree21; 11-10-2017 at 03:25 PM. |
#10
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You will probably have to take it to a dealer for programing.
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#11
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I refuse to take my car to the dealer. It's a ripoff. I'm going to rebuild my old valve body and TCM. I should not have to reprogram the original. RIGHT?
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#12
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You shouldn't have to...
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#13
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My Bad
I rebuilt my original valve body. I don't have 5th gear now. It just shudders and revs up. It does shift smooth 1st thru 4th now,just no 5th. Where do I go from here? I am tired of being a shadetree mechanic.
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#14
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If it worked before and not now, I would say the issue is back in the valve body.
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#15
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In fact my 5th gear was the beginning of the whole thing. That's when I first found out about the contamination problem and began this sojourn. I'm taking a break from mechanics for now. I will finish this project some where down the line. Thanks for your help.
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