#1
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EVAP leak gross
ses light is on auto zone checked codes for me p0455 which is the evap system leak gross000tried putting plastic bag over gas filler neck(under gas cap) light still has not gone out felt around the evap canister and all feels ok i found where the drain tub hooks to a fitting on the frame rail were does the other end come out?? is there a tube that runs all the way to the hood? also found another screwy looking tube which is metal i think but don't know were it comes from it loops over frame rail and then just stop looks like some kind of drain tube---is there a way to easily isolate where the leak is---i have no air compressor or way to make a large vacuum test. also crawled up a little further and found a small round metal thing that's all rusted just kinda sticks out from no were and can't tell were the lines/tubes go what is this?
Last edited by dsm0274; 06-29-2009 at 03:40 PM. |
#2
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i think the rigid metal tube i found was maybe for a breather for the rear differential?? is that possible. the round disk i spoke seems to be on the muffle attachment and has ground wire to the frame??? still trying to find the vacuum evap cut bybass valve or the brake load sensor so i can find the other?? took some pictures maybe someone could help me with the anatamy of what i am looking at oops guess i can't figure out how to upload the pictur well the one is of three tubes running up over the spare tire 1 is clear plastic and looks exactly like a flexible drinking straw,1 is black plastic and appears like split loom but is a tube and the other is thicker rubber hose possible the filler tube and all are bracketed right next to the tube the runs into the frame
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#3
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Go to the service manual at this site and you can find the answer to all your questions in chapter EC page 35.
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#4
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Quote:
__________________
Nissan Master certified Technician
Hybrid and GTR certified EV certified ASE Master Certified. |
#5
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does all this look normal? does the evap canister come out relatively easily?? i know there is 1 screw holding but after i get that out will i have to remove 20 other parts also another thread said that the vacuum evap cut bypass valve usually goeas bad and said it sits on a little shelf in front of the spare tire in a 2001 is that the same in the 2005? and which is easier to replace/more likely the cause i guess i am leaning towards the vent control valvre as i can feel that easily. Last edited by dsm0274; 06-30-2009 at 09:41 AM. Reason: spelling |
#6
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The canister does not come out easily , but you don't have to remove it completely to change the vent valve. You can remove the bolt and pull it down enough to get your hand on the valve. The 2005 is not the same as the 2001. We replace at least one of these every day. It is very common.
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#7
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tsb... Replace vent control valve, install filter kit. the filter will lessen the probabilty of repeat failue.
Last edited by 5523; 06-30-2009 at 02:41 PM. |
#8
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So they say. I'm not convinced that the filter does anything. I still see plenty of bad valves on vehicles that already have the filters installed.
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#9
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I agree mpe235. I still get plenty of 08-09 pathfinder xterra and frontiers with filters from the factory with failed vent control valves.
Last edited by 5523; 06-30-2009 at 05:45 PM. |
#10
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The dealer told me to run the filter hose all the way to the engine compartment , they found this fixes the problem with dust getting into the filter then into the valve ..
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#11
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Quote:
I'm no engineer but something tells me that putting the vent valve directly behind the rear wheel is a bad idea. They could mount the canister in front of the fuel tank on the inside of the frame so it isn't getting blasted with dirt and water from the wheel. |
#12
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That sounds like an ok idea, but the engine compartment on pathfinders do collect alot of dust. If you are going to go that route, select a place with the least amount of dust and dirt accumulation. Plus you have to remember that the evap system doesn't have that much pressure in it so when it vents, it may not be able to over come any sharp bends or kinks in the hose. Route it carefully and it sounds like it may work!
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#13
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To mpe: copy that. I couldn't belive where Nissan put the evap canister on the rouge. Look at L32 altimas. Above the subframe....almost no issues...
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#14
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carbon canister valve
i have removed my valves 2 times. i used the xterra tire jack extention (long one) to remove carbon canister... i removed rear wheel, wheel well plastic cover.... from there i was able to disconect the 3 hoses to carbon canister.... i placed a socket on the tire jack extention to reach that bolt holding carbon canister in place.
valve..... the valve locks in to place with 2 plastic wings on the valve..... so you turn very gently counter clock wise feeling for the 2 slots that allow valve to be removed... DONT animal the valve.... if you animal the valve, you will carve plastic from the little wings and it will not seal air tight. there is a 90% chance your valve is still good..... if you look inside of it you might see the spring twisted and stuck..... use brake cleaner to clean the dirt/dust inside and some q-tips. i used a tiny screw driver to move the spring back and allow me to clean. once you have the valve cleaned... test it using your car battery and 2 long wires... if you hold the valve with the electrical plug facing you (top) and the body of the valve being the bottom, the left metal prong is positive the right is negative.... take the positive wire and touch the positive prong and the negative..... if your valve is still ok, you will hear it close ... carbon canister... dont blow any air into where you removed the valve...... you can blow compressed air into the center opening.... this will blow out any dust in the valve area. be patient removing the valve... if you take your time it will come out easy and you will not damage it... i used some lubrication to place it back into the carbon canister. |
#15
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Quote:
Last edited by Total; 07-01-2009 at 06:08 AM. |
Tags |
evap, evap canister, evap leak gross, gross, leak, p0455 |
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